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> OIL TOO HOT?, HOW TO RUN COOLER.
chazt74914
post Jul 20 2015, 11:23 AM
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Attached ImageTook my '74 2.0 to a car show yesterday about 40 miles away.
I took the back roads on the way there and by the time I got there the oil temp had leveled off at 230' - I am told this is warm but not cause for concern.
On the way home I decided to take the interstate and after about 20 mi. at 75 MPH THE OIL TEMP HAD CLIMBED TO 260' (2200 RPM in 5th)
So I got off this road and after a break to let it cool, I proceeded on the back roads keeping the R's above 3,000 at slower speeds but it didn't seem to help much.
Made it home with no problem and a pull of the dipstick shows good, unburnt, clean oil.

How concerned should I be and what should I look for?
NOTE; ambient temp was 85' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Thanks in advance for any help.
CHAZT
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damesandhotrods
post Jul 20 2015, 11:37 AM
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The air dam is disrupting under car air flow which would naturally lead to higher temps at sustained highway speeds…
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DRPHIL914
post Jul 20 2015, 12:13 PM
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not necessarily , very common issue with the 2.0 cars it seems; my 75 has had the same issue and i had a similar thread started a couple weeks ago on this same subject. mine was hitting the 240+ range with temps at 95 degrees outside, but pushing that 225- 240 range with air temps in the 80's which seems a bit more than it should be. , some factors include RPM's, hills vs flat land, type of and viscosity of oil, air flow under car and around heads, and thry oil cooler. im going to put in an external larger cooler replacing the stock one - looking at the kits that Tangerine racing has right now. I got up to 250-260 climbing the tail of the dragon last year at octeenerfest and it was only 75 degrees out!!

- what oil are you running? are you sure there is no debris under the tin or over the oil cooler?

Phil
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brant
post Jul 20 2015, 12:15 PM
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I agree the air damn will cause part of the extra heat

is it carb'd
maybe richen the mixture
double check the timing and possibly retard it
and if you have never taken the tin work off to clean out the stock cooler that might be in order also
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DRPHIL914
post Jul 20 2015, 12:25 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Jul 20 2015, 02:15 PM) *

I agree the air damn will cause part of the extra heat

is it carb'd
maybe richen the mixture
double check the timing and possibly retard it
and if you have never taken the tin work off to clean out the stock cooler that might be in order also

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
good point , my temps did improve when timing was reset and i was running a bit more rich. i was on the lean side and that does make a difference, even with d-jet, .
- some have had seen a temp difference using a thinner lower viscosity oil, going from a 20/50 to a 10/40, etc.
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Big Len
post Jul 20 2015, 12:36 PM
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How are you doing 75 mph @2200 rpm in 5th?
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EdwardBlume
post Jul 20 2015, 12:53 PM
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It's the air dam. Take it off and retry. I used to run that type for AX but left it off for longer distance.
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Ferg
post Jul 20 2015, 01:00 PM
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All the easy stuff that should help. In the end, if you want to see below 220 on hot days after running hard and long a oil cooler is almost always needed.

Air Dam removal.
Remove rain tray
make sure engine flaps operating
make sure undercarriage chassis flaps present
Check fan for obstruction
Tune and check mixture with sniffer or the like.
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Elliot Cannon
post Jul 20 2015, 02:47 PM
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Right after I installed the low airdam on my car, oil temps started running high. I installed an after market, aux. oil cooler fed through a NACA scoop in the rocker panel, via a 3 inch duct to a cowl surrounding the cooler. Resulting in much cooler oil. You can do something like that or simply go back to a stock front valance. (But where's the fun in that)? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) By the way, your car looks great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)


Attached image(s)
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
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pda914
post Jul 20 2015, 02:51 PM
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I also had the issue with oil temps getting to 230. At that time I did not have an air dam. I added the air dam and went into the Megasquirt configuration and flattened out the timing advance a bit. Now the oil temp stays at 195 on the highway (70 mph during an hour drive on the highway) and in town it may push up to 205. Air temps were in the high 70's.
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era vulgaris
post Jul 20 2015, 03:58 PM
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QUOTE(Big Len @ Jul 20 2015, 02:36 PM) *

How are you doing 75 mph @2200 rpm in 5th?


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That would be closer to 60mph wouldn't it? Not that I'd know. I don't run 5th gear at any less than 3500 rpm, preferably closer to 4K. Running at 2200rpm in 5th is a great way to overheat your heads and cause burned valves and/or cracked heads. That's a lot of air-resistance your car has to push through at that speed, and it causes a lot of unnecessary load on the engine with your rpm's that low. This isn't a water-cooled car, don't drive it like one.
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thelogo
post Jul 20 2015, 04:03 PM
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QUOTE(era vulgaris @ Jul 20 2015, 02:58 PM) *

QUOTE(Big Len @ Jul 20 2015, 02:36 PM) *

How are you doing 75 mph @2200 rpm in 5th?


. This isn't a water-cooled car, don't drive it like one.






Fuckin classic , I love it


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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914itis
post Jul 20 2015, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jul 20 2015, 02:25 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Jul 20 2015, 02:15 PM) *

I agree the air damn will cause part of the extra heat

is it carb'd
maybe richen the mixture
double check the timing and possibly retard it
and if you have never taken the tin work off to clean out the stock cooler that might be in order also

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
good point , my temps did improve when timing was reset and i was running a bit more rich. i was on the lean side and that does make a difference, even with d-jet, .
- some have had seen a temp difference using a thinner lower viscosity oil, going from a 20/50 to a 10/40, etc.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) My car ran 20 degrees higher when switched from 10/40 to 20/50
I switched back and it's back to normal.
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DRPHIL914
post Jul 20 2015, 06:56 PM
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QUOTE(914itis @ Jul 20 2015, 06:59 PM) *

QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jul 20 2015, 02:25 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Jul 20 2015, 02:15 PM) *

I agree the air damn will cause part of the extra heat

is it carb'd
maybe richen the mixture
double check the timing and possibly retard it
and if you have never taken the tin work off to clean out the stock cooler that might be in order also

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
good point , my temps did improve when timing was reset and i was running a bit more rich. i was on the lean side and that does make a difference, even with d-jet, .
- some have had seen a temp difference using a thinner lower viscosity oil, going from a 20/50 to a 10/40, etc.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) My car ran 20 degrees higher when switched from 10/40 to 20/50
I switched back and it's back to normal.

And what brand are you running now?
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dangrouche
post Jul 20 2015, 07:02 PM
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refrerence what Jake Raby has said; third comment down

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...temp,and,normal
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914itis
post Jul 20 2015, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jul 20 2015, 08:56 PM) *

QUOTE(914itis @ Jul 20 2015, 06:59 PM) *

QUOTE(Philip W. @ Jul 20 2015, 02:25 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Jul 20 2015, 02:15 PM) *

I agree the air damn will cause part of the extra heat

is it carb'd
maybe richen the mixture
double check the timing and possibly retard it
and if you have never taken the tin work off to clean out the stock cooler that might be in order also

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
good point , my temps did improve when timing was reset and i was running a bit more rich. i was on the lean side and that does make a difference, even with d-jet, .
- some have had seen a temp difference using a thinner lower viscosity oil, going from a 20/50 to a 10/40, etc.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) My car ran 20 degrees higher when switched from 10/40 to 20/50
I switched back and it's back to normal.

And what brand are you running now?


Valvoline VR1 With added zinc.
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DRPHIL914
post Jul 20 2015, 08:29 PM
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I'm going to go back and recheck the timing, and do an oil change . I've been running 20/50 vr1, will try the 10/40.
See what happens.
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chazt74914
post Jul 21 2015, 11:50 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys.
I am running Quaker State straight SAE30 (non-syn).
I will look under the tins and check the cooler for obstructions and remove the air dam for now to see if it helps. (do the simple stuff first)

The flaps are wired open because I do not take this out in cold weather.
It still has the OEM injection system which has been trouble free since I disabled the cold start valve.

75MPH @ 2,200 IN 5TH - that's what I am reading.
Anyone else think that is whacked?
CHAZT
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stugray
post Jul 21 2015, 11:56 AM
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QUOTE(chazt74914 @ Jul 21 2015, 11:50 AM) *

Thanks for all the input guys.
I am running Quaker State straight SAE30 (non-syn).
I will look under the tins and check the cooler for obstructions and remove the air dam for now to see if it helps. (do the simple stuff first)

The flaps are wired open because I do not take this out in cold weather.
It still has the OEM injection system which has been trouble free since I disabled the cold start valve.

75MPH @ 2,200 IN 5TH - that's what I am reading.
Anyone else think that is whacked?
CHAZT


Do a little research on what is considered an acceptable oil in these cars.
I dont believe that Quaker State is on any of the lists of oils to use.
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DRPHIL914
post Jul 21 2015, 12:11 PM
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QUOTE(chazt74914 @ Jul 21 2015, 01:50 PM) *

Thanks for all the input guys.
I am running Quaker State straight SAE30 (non-syn).
I will look under the tins and check the cooler for obstructions and remove the air dam for now to see if it helps. (do the simple stuff first)

The flaps are wired open because I do not take this out in cold weather.
It still has the OEM injection system which has been trouble free since I disabled the cold start valve.

75MPH @ 2,200 IN 5TH - that's what I am reading.
Anyone else think that is whacked?
CHAZT

I'm just a little above that and I have a modified 4th and 5th gearing (has and flipped x) to give me closer to a 4.4 and 5.5 equivalent. So I run about 600 to 700 rpm less than a standard box on the freeway. Either you also have this set up or your tach is off.
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