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> Break in oil, What to use and do you need it
shelby/914
post May 15 2016, 10:29 PM
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last fall I blew a capped air injection tube out of one head in my '76, so the engine has been refreshed. Barrels were pulled and honed, fresh rings and a set of rebuilt '73 heads and a new oil cooler. It will be reinstalled in the next few weeks and plan to change oil after a few short drives. I was using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50 based on a local Porsche shop. I've got a case of both 20w50 and 10w30 Brad Penn in the garage in addition to the Mobil 1.

What would use and how soon would you do the first oil change. Doesn't have to be any of the above. Recommendations appreciated.

Dan
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SKL1
post May 15 2016, 10:43 PM
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I'd use Brad Penn break-in oil. Has more of the zinc additive which is good for bearings, cams etc for the first 500 or so miles, then change it along with the filter.
I just used the Brad Penn break-in oil on my '73 2.0 after rebuilding the engine. It is 30 weight. Now running Brad Penn 20-50 in AZ since it's HOT down here!!
I use 10-40 Brad Penn on my '71 as it's in IA where the temps are obviously more variable.
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cary
post May 15 2016, 10:54 PM
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Brad Penn 30wt. Break In Oil
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Cracker
post May 16 2016, 07:43 AM
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We use Joe Gibbs Racing Oil - I'd give them a call; they are more than happy to spec out the ideal oil combination for your application - that is what we did. Another option is to hit up Raby for his/their preferences - they might have an opinion. As stated, you definitely want something with high-zinc additives - its much more complex than that, however.

T
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Amphicar770
post May 16 2016, 09:06 AM
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ZDDP is REALLY important for break in. Mobil 1 does not have that. The Brad Penn is a good choice.
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Catorse
post May 16 2016, 09:21 AM
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Joe Gibbs FTW.
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bulitt
post May 16 2016, 10:34 AM
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Yes you need it. You could wipe out your cam lobes without it.
And you need to run the Engine at a specified RPM for a specified period
on initial startup.
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TheCabinetmaker
post May 16 2016, 11:15 AM
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QUOTE(bulitt @ May 16 2016, 11:34 AM) *

Yes you need it. You could wipe out your cam lobes without it.
And you need to run the Engine at a specified RPM for a specified period
on initial startup.


I think he just did a top end refresh. Cam break in not needed
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Mark Henry
post May 16 2016, 12:47 PM
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QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ May 16 2016, 01:15 PM) *

QUOTE(bulitt @ May 16 2016, 11:34 AM) *

Yes you need it. You could wipe out your cam lobes without it.
And you need to run the Engine at a specified RPM for a specified period
on initial startup.


I think he just did a top end refresh. Cam break in not needed

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The BP 10w30 should be good enough for seating the rings.
If she runs fine on start up just drive it like you stole it to seat the rings.
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Cracker
post May 16 2016, 12:53 PM
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Another method for seating rings is load the engine in phases.

1) Three sets of load from roughly 40-60% of max rpm;
2) Three sets of load from 60-80%...
3) Lastly, three sets from 80-100%...

You only get one shot to do it right...best of luck.

Tony
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cgnj
post May 18 2016, 10:27 PM
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OK , which one of you peeps is a oil formulations scientist? Like maybe you're the subject matter expert for Mobil? I'm tired of this oil bullshit about the zinc. At the time this was an issue, China was entering the automotive market and many peeps had their cams run flat on break in. As a result, you are now married to a market that requires you to pay a premium for lifters, valve springs, or some other "super kit"because some air-cooled super-tuner said that there is no zinc in synthetic oil.

Anyone hear of a run-flat problem om cam break in in the last 15 years? Think it is because Brad Penn or Royal Purple is the answer? I'm guessing it is because quality lifters from reputable companies don't come from China any longer.

Bonus question. Why was zinc ever an additive in oil and why was it taken out? Fair warning, in addition to knowing Mr. Subject Matter expert at Mobil, I happen to be related to Mr Zinc ( Materials Scientist, Subject matter expert for INCO.), and Mr. Stainless Steel (Materials Scientist, Subject Matter expert National Bureau of Standards). So while you dopes pay a premium for nothing, I spend my money on better parts, engineering, and machining and drain the oil.

Carlos
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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 10:40 PM
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Carlos,

It certainly has been a while since you last posted.
What brings you out of hiding?

Rich
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cgnj
post May 18 2016, 11:03 PM
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Hi,
Eric had me on lock=down after I roasted DD on 2270 advice.
I'm alive because I'm doing my 914 projects again.
1. 2270 central plenum sequentional injection, COP, waiting for Cam position sensor from dub shop. If it isn't here by Saturday, I have the parts to go edis in hand. Going turbo next year. Going to name this car Sister Sarah's Mule, I am going to use it to test relative plenum efficiency for 2.1 bus plenum, 2.0 914 plenum, and a custom plenum. Then turbo.
2. S4 motor in for machining. Another Alien? No, long range plan is to run twins.
I already revealed to much.

Carlos
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Dave_Darling
post May 19 2016, 10:28 AM
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You roasted me? Sorry I missed it.

We have had reports of cams going flat in the past handful of years. So it is still happening. Not sure if those are from cheap Chinese cam blanks, or what, but it does still happen.

--DD
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carr914
post May 19 2016, 05:34 PM
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Joe Gibbs!
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Geezer914
post May 19 2016, 06:03 PM
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Raby recommends Joe Gibbs. I have used Brad Penn with a can of GM ZDDP just to be sure.
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