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> Dash pad core value., Do any of the repops need a core anymore?
Kansas 914
post Sep 17 2016, 12:44 PM
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I am just curious what the collective brain trust thinks about old cracked dashpads for cores.

I know if couple sources now for new dashpads and none of them require a core. Is it time for me to trash my cores?
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76-914
post Sep 17 2016, 02:03 PM
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ConeDodger
post Sep 17 2016, 10:11 PM
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QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Sep 17 2016, 02:44 PM) *

I am just curious what the collective brain trust thinks about old cracked dashpads for cores.

I know if couple sources now for new dashpads and none of them require a core. Is it time for me to trash my cores?


I think so. Stoddards and 914Rubber both are completely new parts. 914Rubber at least is as good or better than the original. No need to keep your old ones except perhaps for the plastic fastening nuts?
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Mikey914
post Sep 18 2016, 12:46 AM
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They may have some value it you want to recover one in leather. The main problem is the droop. If the inst cluster has a sag you will probably want to toss as you can't get it out.
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SixerJ
post Sep 19 2016, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Sep 18 2016, 07:46 AM) *

They may have some value it you want to recover one in leather. The main problem is the droop. If the inst cluster has a sag you will probably want to toss as you can't get it out.


What about the late verses early pads? Might be worth hanging onto early good cores (if you can call them that). Until you decide to make the early one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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Chris914n6
post Sep 20 2016, 12:01 AM
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Pre-RRC I would have offered to take them home with me. At some point in time I will have a vacuum machine built big enough to accommodate re-skinning dash pads in different vinyls.
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Mikey914
post Sep 20 2016, 12:38 AM
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The problem is the correct vinyl is not available. mainly because the process in which these were made the original vinyl is not thick enough to pull over the part.

It will not hide any sins, without the extra padding just dashes uses, and then you get a part that has to be stripped and prepped. It's a lot of messy work and the product you get is not correct (fatter).

This is just what my research has come up with, but hey, maybe you'll have more luck with it.
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914werke
post Oct 11 2016, 04:57 PM
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so.....short of preferring the leather / exposed stitching look, Zero value?
Ive got to get rid of some stuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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Kansas 914
post Oct 11 2016, 05:16 PM
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QUOTE(rdauenhauer @ Oct 11 2016, 04:57 PM) *

so.....short of preferring the leather / exposed stitching look, Zero value?
Ive got to get rid of some stuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

I have 4 in my stash......
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Chris914n6
post Oct 11 2016, 06:28 PM
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I didn't say anything about using the correct German haircell. There is a company in town that does old Mustang dashes that told my upholstery shop owner who told me how to use standard vinyls. He also has American haircell in stock.

Watch the JustDashes video, it's involved, and it told the whole process (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Standard technique for 70's dashes.

As far as cores, it would be nice to have a few on hand to work with, but I'm far enough away from actually doing it that it's not something I would want to put much money into. The IR heater I bought at the neighbors garage sale might not even work.

If you want to, pm me shipping costs to 89121.

QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Sep 19 2016, 11:38 PM) *

The problem is the correct vinyl is not available. mainly because the process in which these were made the original vinyl is not thick enough to pull over the part.

It will not hide any sins, without the extra padding just dashes uses, and then you get a part that has to be stripped and prepped. It's a lot of messy work and the product you get is not correct (fatter).

This is just what my research has come up with, but hey, maybe you'll have more luck with it.
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EdwardBlume
post Oct 11 2016, 08:42 PM
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I chucked mine... but then again, I ripped it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)
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