Rear brake adjustments, how to? Options

[JB 914]

is there an article on how to adjust the rear brakes? i've got no ebrake and they are both connected.

[drgchapman]

The bird board has a great step by step procedure. I used to adjust both my cars after rotor and rebuilt caliper job. Worked great. Have you bled your brakes lately? Wow what a difference when they are done right!

[JB 914]

QUOTE (drgchapman @ Apr 21 2005, 08:45 PM)

The bird board has a great step by step procedure. I used to adjust both my cars after rotor and rebuilt caliper job. Worked great. Have you bled your brakes lately? Wow what a difference when they are done right!

Ahh, the bird board. i forgot to look there. i did bleed them, but, had to have my wife help. legs are too short and we have differing opinions on what "full petal" is (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

[tnorthern]

I went through a similar issue recently with my rears. Adjusted them up fine and went for a spin, get home and the e-brake goes all the way up without applying any braking. I need to pull my wheels and adjust again.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Here's a little article I wrote that addresses the question. Remember! The venting clearance in the book is wrong! Use .004"! Have fun! The Cap'n

[Cap'n Krusty]

OOPS! Must not have worked! Here it is for real! Remember, the book is wrong! Use .004" for the clearance!

Subject: Re: Rear brake pad question: READ THIS THROUGH before doing the
job!!!! The adjustment procedure is here, and so is the method for modifying early 911 rear pads to fit a 914 rear caliper. Sometimes they’re all you can easily find.


Ever do the rears before? Know how to do it? Here we go. Drill out
the hole. Measure the old one and use that size drill. Be sure you drill
the right hole! The pads you got are for an early 911. No matter. Run a
couple of the lug bolts in with some washers to secure the rotor
tightly to the hub. When removing the pads, begin with the outer and loosen the
nut on the adjuster screw. Keeping pressure on the piston by firmly prying
it with a sturdy screwdriver, turn the screw CW and press the puck all the way
back. (4mm allen wrench.) Slip the new pad in and turn the screw CCW until
the pad is held snugly. Back off a little and slip a long .004" feeler gauge
between the pad and the rotor. I find it easiest to go in from the top and
to turn the rotor CCW (CW on the right side) when checking the
clearance. Tighten the adjuster until you have a bit of drag as you turn the
rotor. Turn it all the way around to make sure you have good clearance. Lock the nut down while holding the adjuster screw with your allen wrench. Might take a couple of tries to get it where you want it.
Do the inner the same way, although there's no lock nut. The inner adjuster
moves as a conventional right-hand thread bolt, out to retract, in to apply
pressure on the pad. Put the pins and spring in before adjusting the
inners. There is a cap and a copper washer, however, that must be
removed to gain access to the adjuster. Keeping pressure on the piston is
VERY important, as you can lose the adjuster and be in relatively hot
water. Once the inner is adjusted, you want to recheck the outer and so
forth.

HTH, The Cap’n

[tnorthern]

So you want the spring in for the inners? Ok I guess just another case where the Haynes manuals leave a lot to be desired...

[rhodyguy]

bump for jon. read what the mighty cap'n has to say. after many years i've figured out the search feature. alas...no linking yet.

k