Bleeding Bleeding Bleeding AIR???, give me a quick hand ... Options

[RangerRhett]

I started to bleed the brakes tonight.

I know the order:
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

Even when I started, I was getting bubbles in my hand pump (with cannister) . Now I get no, zero resitance on the brake Pedal. None...Zero...

Should I close up all the nipples, push on the pedal a few times and then start over....repeat, repeat, repeat until I get a steady stream of brake fluid...?

'Lil Help on this one..

[SLITS]

Did the MC run dry at any time?

Crack the connections at the MC, bleed it and start over again.

Best guess............

[914fire]

As long as you have air in your lines your going to have a soft pedal. You might have to loosen the lines around the proportioning valveto gat the air out of there to.Keep pumping.. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

[xsboost90]

did mine the other nite. filled resevoir, closed bleeders. Pump pump pump till starts to build resistance-pedal- Called the gf over, she pumps them up a couple times, i open right rear, pump open pump open till i get air less fluid out of it. Then the left rear, then .......till fluid comes out immediatly. Hard to do w/ the hand pump sometimes, great for abs cars though!

[RangerRhett]

The Reservoir was always full...When I would take out even an ounce, I would replace it just to make sure....

I may have pushed on the brake pedal when one of the nipples was still open a little bit...I probably sucked all kinds of air into the MC....*shit*

Bleed the MC eh? Now I gotta Figure that out...

[bondo]

Those mityvac brake bleeders work in a pinch but they're a poor substitute for a two person brake bleeding. To get them to work at all, you have to have the bleeder valve closed, pump up a good vacuum, and then crack the valve a little, but close the valve again before all vacuum is lost. This prevents any air that gets drawn in around the bleeder valve threads from ending up back inside the caliper. If you just hook it up, open the valve, and pump, you'll be pumping forever.

Also, if your master cylinder is leaky at all, the vacuum method can draw in air there instead of fluid from the reservior. Do the 2 person method if you have 2 people.

[Andyrew]

You opened up all the valves at the same time? What kind of bleed system you using?

Speed bleeders?

You need to only have one valve open unless your running speed bleeders.

Andrew

[SLITS]

Just crack the connections at the MC and let it gravity bleed.....drip, drip, drip, then tighten them. If the thingy was full all the time, you may have sucked a shit pile of air into the lines and the MC is ok.

And if all the bleeders were open at the same time, you sucked a bunch of air thru three while you were working on one.

[RangerRhett]

There is no way the MC is bad...it was working great before I did this...now I just have the air int he darn system...

[Dave Blackburn]

I have a vacuume bleeder and have had a few problems with it.
If the hose is not very tight on the bleed nipple it will suck air from there.
I started doing it the old way again. Never could get the vacuume pump to do a good job.
If you have a chunk of hose long enough to go from the bleed nipple into a container with some brake fluid in it you can crack the bleed nipple and pump the brake pedal yourself. Just make sure that you don't run out of fluid in the m/c and that bleed hose always stays in the fluid.
Good luck!
Dave

[RangerRhett]

Guys,

How do I get the fluid back through the brake lines?

I only had the nipples open one at a time. I bled the lines. Then I think that I sucked some air into the lines. How do I get it out?


R

[914fire]

pump pump pump.....

[RangerRhett]

QUOTE (914fire @ May 4 2005, 07:35 PM)

pump pump pump.....

The Brake Pedal or the hand pump?

[Thorshammer]

Slits is right, crack the master cylinder and let it drip a bit. You did not say why you are bleeding. Did you replace a component? Not sure. But here goes and my system is a little different.

After letting the master cylinder drip a bit. get 4 orings that will go over the bleeder valves so they seal when you open them. Next, go by a motorcycle shop and get about 3ft of vacuum line that is the proper size to fit on your bleeder valve (it's usually blue) Don't ask why.

wrap some safety wire around the vacuum line and make sure it is attached to the bleeder. I start at the right rear. Open the bleeder up after three to four gentle strokes on the pedal. yes I said gentle. If the GF/Wife is pumping it like your... ahem, sorry. Really fast is not going to work. Slow and steady. After opening the valve a couple times you should get a little bit of fluid. If so, tape the vacuum line to the inner fender so it loops up then down into your brake bleed can. Once you have a little fluid in the line, open the valve up a good amount, but make sure the oring is push against caliper so it does not leak any air.

One of the problems when people bleed brakes is they never get the bleeders open enough to get fluid moving fast enough by opening the bleeder up. What happens is the air gets stuck and won't travel downhill very well, until you get the fluid to move at a greater speed. Check the reservoir often. You will NOT be closing the bleeder. Leave it open, the master cylinder should not back draw any air from the bleeder because you have the fluid in the line, and as long as you always have fluid going up to where you lopped the line, no problem mon. Do the other side the same way. Only one wheel at a time please.

If you lived near me you could borrow my wurth air bleeder, which is a device that hooks onto the bleeder valve and pulls the fluid and the air into a cannister. Works everytime.

Good luck,


Erik Madsen

Post Script: Also make sure the pedal is returning all the way back, if the return hole in the master cylinder is not uncovered by the plunger returning all the way, the thing will never bleed out.

[Trekkor]

Good thread.

I'll be doing this shortly myself.
I've always used the "one man bleeder tool".
One way check valve on the end of a short hose that sits in a catch can.

Attach tool, crack valve and pump away. Always works.

Also if you remove the fluid in the resivoir before you begin ( if you are flushing the system ) there will be less pumping. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT

[sgomes]

I know every time we have one of these brake bleeding threads everyone puts in their favorite method. Since no one has mentioned it yet, I'll jump in.

I LOVE my pressure bleeder!!!! Just fill that sucker up with fluid; pump it up; and run around the car cracking valves one at a time. It is especially great when you've got a ton of air in the system.

That said, nothing beats the pedal pumping when it comes to air in the proportioning valve. That bastard really needs some hard stomping to get the air around it.

Just my 2 cents.

[914GT]

Here are a couple of tips for good brake bleeding results., especially if using the 'one man' bleeders. Remove all the bleeder valves and make sure they are clean and not clogged with dirt, and lightly wire brush the threads. Then apply Permatex thread sealant on the threads and reinstall. This will prevent air from being sucked back in around the threads when they are cracked open for bleeding. Second thing, if the master cylinder lost fluid and run dry, I've seen air bubbles get trapped where the lines run somewhat horizontal under the gas tank. Grab the two lines and shake them and that can let the air bubbles float up to the top. If you see bubbles rise just keep shaking until they are all gone. Just don't go nuts and pull the lines out of the master cylinder.

[Joe Bob]

S P E E D B L E E D E R S

[914GT]

QUOTE ("Z" @ May 4 2005, 09:38 PM)

S P E E D B L E E D E R S

And spend a whole $25? Some of us are just too damn cheap!