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> Odometer fix, how do you get the wheels out
jrblackbox
post May 6 2017, 02:10 PM
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I am following the Pelican DIY Tech article on the fix, but I don't see how you can get the wheels out without removing the needle and gauge face. I don't want screw it up, I removed the 2 small screws that hold the gauge face on and that has given me some wiggle room, but I don't want to force them out. Anybody been thru this? It is an early 120 MPH speedo if that makes a difference?
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bbrock
post May 6 2017, 03:05 PM
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QUOTE(jrblackbox @ May 6 2017, 02:10 PM) *

I am following the Pelican DIY Tech article on the fix, but I don't see how you can get the wheels out without removing the needle and gauge face. I don't want screw it up, I removed the 2 small screws that hold the gauge face on and that has given me some wiggle room, but I don't want to force them out. Anybody been thru this? It is an early 120 MPH speedo if that makes a difference?


I just did this this morning! Once I removed the face plate screws, I was able to swivel the face plate around and then tilt it up enough to pull the wheels out between the face plate and white cog wheels in the front without applying any pressure. But be very careful! When I reinstalled the wheels the first time, I wound up with the needle on the wrong side of the stop pin. I barely flexed it over the top and popped a big chip of paint off the needle. Not a disaster since I am going to repaint the needles back to their original (non-faded) color (anyone have a good matching paint?). But it still pissed me off.

I was also hell bent on zeroing the odometer on reinstall since I'm doing a complete engine rebuild and chassis strip down restoration. I found that I had better luck installing the wheels one at a time, sliding the shaft in to catch each additional wheel as I went, and sliding the white cog wheels to the right one at a time as each wheel was added and holding them to the right while adding the next wheel. It took over an hour and required a lot of cussing, but I managed to get it done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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kgruen2
post May 9 2017, 08:44 AM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ May 6 2017, 02:05 PM) *

QUOTE(jrblackbox @ May 6 2017, 02:10 PM) *

I am following the Pelican DIY Tech article on the fix, but I don't see how you can get the wheels out without removing the needle and gauge face. I don't want screw it up, I removed the 2 small screws that hold the gauge face on and that has given me some wiggle room, but I don't want to force them out. Anybody been thru this? It is an early 120 MPH speedo if that makes a difference?


I just did this this morning! Once I removed the face plate screws, I was able to swivel the face plate around and then tilt it up enough to pull the wheels out between the face plate and white cog wheels in the front without applying any pressure. But be very careful! When I reinstalled the wheels the first time, I wound up with the needle on the wrong side of the stop pin. I barely flexed it over the top and popped a big chip of paint off the needle. Not a disaster since I am going to repaint the needles back to their original (non-faded) color (anyone have a good matching paint?). But it still pissed me off.

I was also hell bent on zeroing the odometer on reinstall since I'm doing a complete engine rebuild and chassis strip down restoration. I found that I had better luck installing the wheels one at a time, sliding the shaft in to catch each additional wheel as I went, and sliding the white cog wheels to the right one at a time as each wheel was added and holding them to the right while adding the next wheel. It took over an hour and required a lot of cussing, but I managed to get it done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)


I used a red felt pen to touch up the speedo, fuel gauge and temp needles on my 65 Mustang. They went from faded red to looking new. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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