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> Pertronix problem, won't refire!
Dion
post May 16 2005, 07:43 AM
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While coming back from a swap meet in Princeton,NJ. The teener started bucking and the tach needle flying up and down. The car would clear its throat and then continue. After a few more of these events it died.I had company while I waited for the flat bed. John I. in his Turbo'd 14 was with me.I did try changing relays with no success. Upon reaching home we took down the front belly panel and found a broken fuel pump wire.The bucking must have been the on/off contact with the pump.
After reconnecting she will not fire. I sprayed starter fluid down the intake.No spark just cranks. Any ideas? Burned up fuel pump? Pertronix fried from key in on position when the engine cut?Where to start? The motor is a 76' 2.0 with smog equip removed. Heads rebuilt 2yrs ago by Otto's less than 500 mile on the heads. New pressure sensor. New battery and starter/coil. Car ran fine till the above situation. Any and all ideas appreciated. Cheers Dion
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JerryP
post May 16 2005, 08:15 AM
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Hey Dion,

I talked to you at Hershey a few times. Glad to see you posting. Is that your car in the avatar? When did you put the flares on?

You could always throw some points in to see if the problem is the pertronix. I haven't installed my pertronix yet but there are guys here who, I'm sure, know how to test them with a voltmeter. It's only a couple wires. Sorry I can't be of more help, but sit tight. Someone here will figure it out. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)
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Mueller
post May 16 2005, 10:11 AM
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QUOTE
haven't installed my pertronix yet but there are guys here who, I'm sure, know how to test them with a voltmeter. It's only a couple wires. Sorry I can't be of more help, but sit tight. Someone here will figure it out.


this "should" be the way to check a pertronix or any other type of electronic ignition modual:


with key on, and depending on the location of the magnets on the trigger wheel, you should have voltage to both sides of the coil, the positive side should be 12vdc, the negative side should have something ranging from a few volts up to 12vdc... turn over the motor or with the dizzy out, spin the dizzy, when the little magnet passes the sensor "window", the voltage should drop on the negative side of the coil...if it does, this means the Pertronix is still working and it is causing the coil to collapse and send voltage to the sparkplugs.



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Dion
post May 16 2005, 07:52 PM
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Hey Mike,thanks for the info I will give this a go.
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