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> Squeaky squeaky, somewhere in the front suspension
iankarr
post Jul 30 2017, 05:26 PM
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Hi guys,

My car has developed a strange nearly constant squeak. I originally thought is was coming from under the dash, but I now think it's in the front left suspension. It seems to be worse on a relatively level road...as if something is rubbing in a squeaky sweet spot. When I push down on the left front fender I def hear a squeak, though it's not quite as high pitched as when I'm driving. The really strange part is that sometimes the squeak goes a away completely....and then returns from out of the blue.

Any ideas? Thanks!
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rfinegan
post Jul 30 2017, 05:34 PM
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my sway bar squeaked only on one side and I fixed it by tapping a grease fitting and adding grease from time to time....

QUOTE(cuddyk @ Jul 30 2017, 03:26 PM) *

Hi guys,

My car has developed a strange nearly constant squeak. I originally thought is was coming from under the dash, but I now think it's in the front left suspension. It seems to be worse on a relatively level road...as if something is rubbing in a squeaky sweet spot. When I push down on the left front fender I def hear a squeak, though it's not quite as high pitched as when I'm driving. The really strange part is that sometimes the squeak goes a away completely....and then returns from out of the blue.

Any ideas? Thanks!
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iankarr
post Jul 30 2017, 05:40 PM
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Thanks but alas, no sway bar on my car. Though I have SBE (sway bar envy).
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BillC
post Jul 30 2017, 06:48 PM
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QUOTE(cuddyk @ Jul 30 2017, 07:26 PM) *

Hi guys,

My car has developed a strange nearly constant squeak. I originally thought is was coming from under the dash, but I now think it's in the front left suspension. It seems to be worse on a relatively level road...as if something is rubbing in a squeaky sweet spot. When I push down on the left front fender I def hear a squeak, though it's not quite as high pitched as when I'm driving. The really strange part is that sometimes the squeak goes a away completely....and then returns from out of the blue.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Those are exactly the same symptoms my car had. Turned out the control arm bushings needed to be replaced. The squeaking is because the rear bushings have sagged, letting the control arms rub on the torsion bars.

I ended up installing the Elephant Racing bushings. They go on pretty easily, as long as you have a big, sturdy bar clamp and plenty of liquid dish washing soap. Hardest part was actually getting the old bushings off.
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rgalla9146
post Jul 30 2017, 07:25 PM
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Hey Ian
The squeak probably comes from the torsion touching the inside of the control arm.
That leads to rust on the torsion bar and eventually the torsion bar breaks.
Then that corner falls.
Better inspect the torsion bars too.
Rory
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iankarr
post Jul 31 2017, 08:51 AM
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Thanks Rory and Brain Trust. Few questions...

– If I find that the control arm has scored the torsion bar, is that then a "must replace"? I know that on an axle, even a small score creates a weak spot where it can shear. Wondering if that's the same case with the front torsion bar....or is rust the primary concern since the metal is exposed in the scored area?

– Since I'm going to have to change the control arm bushings, is there anything else I should replace "while I'm in there?".

I'm sure I'll have to do an alignment when all is said and done, but is there anything I can do to keep the geometry close so driving it to the alignment shop isn't a terrifying tug-of-war? I assume marking everything will help, but wondering if there are special tricks....

Thanks!
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bdstone914
post Jul 31 2017, 08:55 AM
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QUOTE(cuddyk @ Jul 31 2017, 07:51 AM) *

Thanks Rory and Brain Trust. Few questions...

– If I find that the control arm has scored the torsion bar, is that then a "must replace"? I know that on an axle, even a small score creates a weak spot where it can shear. Wondering if that's the same case with the front torsion bar....or is rust the primary concern since the metal is exposed in the scored area?

– Since I'm going to have to change the control arm bushings, is there anything else I should replace "while I'm in there?".

I'm sure I'll have to do an alignment when all is said and done, but is there anything I can do to keep the geometry close so driving it to the alignment shop isn't a terrifying tug-of-war? I assume marking everything will help, but wondering if there are special tricks....

Thanks!


That depends on the depth of the groove. Minor ones can be polished down. A ridge creates a stress riser where a crack can start. That them both out and inspect. You are probably going to need new bushings for both arms.
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Larmo63
post Jul 31 2017, 09:10 AM
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As stated above, installing the rubber Elephant control arm bushings isn't all that hard. If you see wear on your torsion bars, they are easily available. I have a pretty clean set of stock ones and using something beefier/aftermarket, really stiffens up the front end.

I have a clean set of torsion bars available and I'm sure Bruce has quite a few sets too.
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iankarr
post Jul 31 2017, 12:02 PM
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Cool. All great info. Would be interested in new bars. Please PM if you have good set. Would new / beefier bars make a huge difference? Def only want to do this once (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif).
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Larmo63
post Jul 31 2017, 12:32 PM
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Mine are hollow 22mm and made a world of difference. I have new HD Bilsteins and the stock sway bar too, so that, along with five lug & SC struts makes for pretty solid handling.

I may do an aftermarket front sway bar after the /6 is running.
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