Rear trunk lid rust, How to repair rust for paint |
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Rear trunk lid rust, How to repair rust for paint |
artluvr |
Aug 23 2017, 07:09 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 23-August 17 From: Smyrna, GA Member No.: 21,372 Region Association: South East States |
My 1974 914 has the typical bubbling paint on the rear trunk lid due to rust caused by the foam insulation. I have cut out a section on the left side of the lid and removed the foam to treat the rust. Should I replace the foam with something else to give rigidity to the lid? Also, should I go ahead and do the same thing to the right side of the lid, even though there are currently no pin holes there?
I am stripping the car for paint--my first experience. Thank you for any suggestions or experiences. |
boxsterfan |
Aug 23 2017, 07:52 PM
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#2
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914's are kewl Group: Members Posts: 1,776 Joined: 6-June 03 From: San Ramon, CA Member No.: 791 Region Association: Northern California |
At that point in a restore, I would do whatever it took to get all the foam out. Did you get the foam out from under the sail panels area and the rear wheel arches (in rear I think)?
Someone else here will have good ideas on what to do with the rigidity. |
amfab |
Aug 23 2017, 08:17 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 17-May 16 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 20,004 Region Association: None |
A while back, I repaired the back edge of my trunk lid. The frame was rusted underneath and had a small crack in it right around where the latch was and this caused the latch area to flex enough so the trunk would not sit down all the way against the weather stripping. Someone on this site recommended 3M Panel adhesive and it worked amazingly. I do not know how it would work on the whole frame because I am not certain where it is bonded, but you should definitely look into it. Here are a couple of videos about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7pWRqAZIJM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxHActyy9Ds It is about 45 bucks and the special gun is about 65 -Andrew |
Costa05 |
Aug 23 2017, 11:05 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 320 Joined: 27-October 16 From: Phoenix, Arizona Member No.: 20,535 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I have been using Klean Strip Prep and Etch from Home Depot. Sold by the gallon for about $12. It is basically a rust converter that is similar to Rust Mort Converter by SEM. I do multiple applications with paint brush and scuff between coats until rust appears to be gone. Remember to neutralize following applications. Good reviews and happy so far with the results. Epoxy primer follows as a sealer to bare metal and paint prep.
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artluvr |
Aug 24 2017, 06:40 AM
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#5
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 23-August 17 From: Smyrna, GA Member No.: 21,372 Region Association: South East States |
At that point in a restore, I would do whatever it took to get all the foam out. Did you get the foam out from under the sail panels area and the rear wheel arches (in rear I think)? Someone else here will have good ideas on what to do with the rigidity. Thank you for your response. I was unaware of the foam in the sail panels. No visible pin holes or paint bubbling there. I would have posted photos but haven't figured out how to do that yet. |
artluvr |
Aug 24 2017, 06:59 AM
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#6
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 23-August 17 From: Smyrna, GA Member No.: 21,372 Region Association: South East States |
A while back, I repaired the back edge of my trunk lid. The frame was rusted underneath and had a small crack in it right around where the latch was and this caused the latch area to flex enough so the trunk would not sit down all the way against the weather stripping. Someone on this site recommended 3M Panel adhesive and it worked amazingly. I do not know how it would work on the whole frame because I am not certain where it is bonded, but you should definitely look into it. Here are a couple of videos about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7pWRqAZIJM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxHActyy9Ds It is about 45 bucks and the special gun is about 65 I was unaware of the body adhesive. I spent all last week welding in a patch to the front trunk floor where an air compressor was probably housed. Glue would have been easier but I learned a lot about welding and bead rolling--doing it two times gave me twice the experience. -Andrew |
artluvr |
Aug 24 2017, 07:04 AM
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#7
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 23-August 17 From: Smyrna, GA Member No.: 21,372 Region Association: South East States |
My 1974 914 has the typical bubbling paint on the rear trunk lid due to rust caused by the foam insulation. I have cut out a section on the left side of the lid and removed the foam to treat the rust. Should I replace the foam with something else to give rigidity to the lid? Also, should I go ahead and do the same thing to the right side of the lid, even though there are currently no pin holes there? I am stripping the car for paint--my first experience. Thank you for any suggestions or experiences. Your method is more economical than what I got from Eastwood--Rust Encapsulator, Internal Frame Coating and Rust Convertor. |
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