I have no spark, No Spark Options

[Jimz73]

Okay, I am totally stumped and dumb-founded. My car hasn't run for at least 2 years. I replaced the three port fuel pump with a new 2 port pump. The car is a '73 1.7 with stock fuel injection. I replaced fuel lines in tunnel with stainless steel lines at the same time. Tried to start, just cranked and cranked. It is getting gas to the injectors, but I could not get spark. I replaced the coil with a new one. Pulled lead from distributor and placed near the engine tin. Cranked the engine over, no spark. Car ran fine when I garaged it due to leaking fuel pump. I need help to figure it out. I even tried starting fluid and no go. Hasn't even made an attempt to fire.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Point Gap closed or corroded, or bad condenser

[Rand]

Lots of talk about fuel when you indicated it was spark. Try a few more shots of starting fluid. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Did you try any other methods of testing spark? Is there power to the coil?

[marksteinhilber]

You must confirm that you have 12v to the coil when ignition is on. If you have 12v to the coil, then you would check your points and condenser. The points should be opening and closing as engine cranks. An inductive timing light or spark tester can be used on the main coil to distributor lead. If there is no spark here, the problem is between the coil and the distributor and likely the points and condenser. If you sense spark getting to the center of the distributor cap, but no spark sensed in the plug wires, then you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wire connections at cap. Also make sure distributor is seated down, and rotor turns with engine. Make sure rotor lines up with TDC #1. As you check these parts realize that even the rotor and cap may have failed fail and won’t pass the spark. When I have no spark on an old car that hasn’t run in years, it can be as simple as rubbing the contact points with emery paper.

[Larmo63]

Also, look inside the distributor cap at the center contact....?

[marksteinhilber]

Also, look inside the distributor cap at the center contact....?

Yes, I ve seen the center terminal of the cap burned or failed as well as similar failure problems with the rotor too.

[cary]

I'm with Curt. Just ran into that on Mick's car, burnt points. I assume from leaving the ignition on try to diagnosis other issues.
But confirm you have 12voits on the black/red wire coming from the relay board.

[Dave_Darling]

Step 1: Verify that there is no spark An extra spark plug, hooked up to a plug wire and taped with the threaded part touching a ground, will produce a visible spark when the starter is cranked. If you see a spark, that's a strong hint that you do have spark...

--DD

[Chris914n6]

After 2 years of Obamagas anotherthingBushdidwronggas EPAhatesoldcarsgas E10 the injectors are likely stuck and need cleaned.*

Also get one of these, cheap and easy In-Line Spark Checker


*(edited for Political Correctness)

[Jimz73]

You must confirm that you have 12v to the coil when ignition is on. If you have 12v to the coil, then you would check your points and condenser. The points should be opening and closing as engine cranks. An inductive timing light or spark tester can be used on the main coil to distributor lead. If there is no spark here, the problem is between the coil and the distributor and likely the points and condenser. If you sense spark getting to the center of the distributor cap, but no spark sensed in the plug wires, then you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wire connections at cap. Also make sure distributor is seated down, and rotor turns with engine. Make sure rotor lines up with TDC #1. As you check these parts realize that even the rotor and cap may have failed fail and won’t pass the spark. When I have no spark on an old car that hasn’t run in years, it can be as simple as rubbing the contact points with emery paper.

I just confirmed that I do not have 12V to the coil. I connected red lead to the + side of coil and black to engine tin, and with the key in the on position. No voltage registered at all.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

first make sure that in the crank position you still have power to the coil positive or 15 side, then put a dwell meter on the points and make sure you have 50 degrees dwell

Okay, I am totally stumped and dumb-founded. My car hasn't run for at least 2 years. I replaced the three port fuel pump with a new 2 port pump. The car is a '73 1.7 with stock fuel injection. I replaced fuel lines in tunnel with stainless steel lines at the same time. Tried to start, just cranked and cranked. It is getting gas to the injectors, but I could not get spark. I replaced the coil with a new one. Pulled lead from distributor and placed near the engine tin. Cranked the engine over, no spark. Car ran fine when I garaged it due to leaking fuel pump. I need help to figure it out. I even tried starting fluid and no go. Hasn't even made an attempt to fire.

[taylspin46]

You must confirm that you have 12v to the coil when ignition is on. If you have 12v to the coil, then you would check your points and condenser. The points should be opening and closing as engine cranks. An inductive timing light or spark tester can be used on the main coil to distributor lead. If there is no spark here, the problem is between the coil and the distributor and likely the points and condenser. If you sense spark getting to the center of the distributor cap, but no spark sensed in the plug wires, then you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wire connections at cap. Also make sure distributor is seated down, and rotor turns with engine. Make sure rotor lines up with TDC #1. As you check these parts realize that even the rotor and cap may have failed fail and won’t pass the spark. When I have no spark on an old car that hasn’t run in years, it can be as simple as rubbing the contact points with emery paper.

I just confirmed that I do not have 12V to the coil. I connected red lead to the + side of coil and black to engine tin, and with the key in the on position. No voltage registered at all.

[taylspin46]

Ignition coil gets power from fuse9 via ignition coil. S9 also powers stop and reverse lights.

[taylspin46]

Ignition coil gets power from fuse9 via ignition coil. S9 also powers stop and reverse lights.

(Power from ignition switch i meant)

[taylspin46]

Meant poer to S9 from ign. Switch.

[Jimz73]

Thanks to all of you. I checked batteries in my meter and installed new. Tested coil again and I did have 12v at coil. I had reset points once before, but I took them out, lightly sanded contacts and reinstalled and gapped. The car started in just a few cranks. Runs rough, so I will change plugs, points, condenser, rotor, cap, and wires and see if running improves. Again, thanks.

[Chris914n6]

Also let it run 10-30 minutes to clean the old gas out of the injectors.

[TheCabinetmaker]

What did you gap the points at. Fsm says to set dwell at 47 +or- 3 degrees. Don't rely on the. 016 point gap. Use a dwell meter. Adjust valves, set fuel pressure, set dwell, then lastly, set timing with vacuum hoses unplugged, and capped.

[914_teener]

After 2 years of Obamagas the injectors are likely stuck and need cleaned.

Also get one of these, cheap and easy In-Line Spark Checker

Your political views have nothing to do with why the OP has no spark.

Keep them to yourself.


To the OP:

Check the ground lead on the advance plate to make sure it is connected and do what Dave Darling says first.

[Chris914n6]

After 2 years of Obamagas the injectors are likely stuck and need cleaned.

Also get one of these, cheap and easy In-Line Spark Checker

Your political views have nothing to do with why the OP has no spark.

Keep them to yourself.

There is nothing political about the ethanol mandate destroying fuel systems of cars built before it. I just did a fuel pump on a 2005 Beetle that sat for 2 years, the plastic transfer tube crumbled and the rubber melted. Common pieces in all German cars.
Also I stepped in the puddle and it left half my sole in the concrete. It's also a problem for the couple cars I don't drive often.

OP mentioned he had 2 year old gas.... it is relevant if it's not squirting or has pre-ethanol hoses.