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> revisiting After side shift tranny rebuild - still shift into 1st issues, About 50% goes shift right in, 50% no can do
jjs3rd914
post Nov 20 2018, 12:23 PM
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Side shift tranny rebuilt

All gears shift beautiful but 1st, linkage adjusted properly, bushings all new
No issues with clutch tube in tunnel
New PP, TO bearing, 6 spring clutch disk
Stock flywheel cut .025" and TO bearing fork pivot ball washer added by .025" to the stock .060"
All motor mounts good
Clutch adjusted properly

Used very good 1st reverse slider
Used almost new 2nd-5th dog teeth with appropriate brake bands etc.
Used NEW synchro ring

About half the time it goes right into 1st very smoothly. No grinding, no issues with reverse, linkage feels great. Other times will not budge into 1st gear. By going into 3rd gear first then trying seems to work most of the time as workaround.

SO after reading numerous threads we have concluded that could the issue be

1. Are new synchros much stiffer than used one. SO DO THEY NEED TO BE WORN IN?
Could that be part of the problem and could problem diminish with use?

2. And Using a 2-5 dog tooth gear and brake bands also be part of the problem?

I do have original 1st gear brake band and am willing to buy the correct 1st gear dog gear.
Also I have many good usable "worn in" synchro rings to use instead of the new one.

So if problem does not go away, could I be faced to replace the above to get it right?

I have no issue doing so. Just want it right.

So anyone else faced with simliar issue and how did you solve it. Some Prior threads seem to point into maybe not using a new synchro and not using the 2-5 dog gear.

Thanks
jjs3rd914




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wndsrfr
post Nov 21 2018, 06:59 AM
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QUOTE(jjs3rd914 @ Nov 20 2018, 10:23 AM) *

Side shift tranny rebuilt

All gears shift beautiful but 1st, linkage adjusted properly, bushings all new
No issues with clutch tube in tunnel
New PP, TO bearing, 6 spring clutch disk
Stock flywheel cut .025" and TO bearing fork pivot ball washer added by .025" to the stock .060"
All motor mounts good
Clutch adjusted properly

Used very good 1st reverse slider
Used almost new 2nd-5th dog teeth with appropriate brake bands etc.
Used NEW synchro ring

About half the time it goes right into 1st very smoothly. No grinding, no issues with reverse, linkage feels great. Other times will not budge into 1st gear. By going into 3rd gear first then trying seems to work most of the time as workaround.

SO after reading numerous threads we have concluded that could the issue be

1. Are new synchros much stiffer than used one. SO DO THEY NEED TO BE WORN IN?
Could that be part of the problem and could problem diminish with use?

2. And Using a 2-5 dog tooth gear and brake bands also be part of the problem?

I do have original 1st gear brake band and am willing to buy the correct 1st gear dog gear.
Also I have many good usable "worn in" synchro rings to use instead of the new one.

So if problem does not go away, could I be faced to replace the above to get it right?

I have no issue doing so. Just want it right.

So anyone else faced with simliar issue and how did you solve it. Some Prior threads seem to point into maybe not using a new synchro and not using the 2-5 dog gear.

Thanks
jjs3rd914

Both of mine are bitchy going into first...sometimes drop right in, most times hard to get that full click in. Try just a bit looser on the clutch cable maybe to see if that helps. I always drop it in just before the car comes to a stop but it's bad if I let it sit in neutral then try for first...
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BeatNavy
post Nov 21 2018, 07:15 AM
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QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Nov 21 2018, 07:59 AM) *

Both of mine are bitchy going into first...sometimes drop right in, most times hard to get that full click in. Try just a bit looser on the clutch cable maybe to see if that helps. I always drop it in just before the car comes to a stop but it's bad if I let it sit in neutral then try for first...

I have precisely the same experience. Sometimes right in, other times right in after putting in 3rd AND THEN 1st, and other times requires a little more brute force. And this is on a rebuilt gearbox.
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jjs3rd914
post Nov 21 2018, 01:00 PM
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QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Nov 21 2018, 05:15 AM) *

QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Nov 21 2018, 07:59 AM) *

Both of mine are bitchy going into first...sometimes drop right in, most times hard to get that full click in. Try just a bit looser on the clutch cable maybe to see if that helps. I always drop it in just before the car comes to a stop but it's bad if I let it sit in neutral then try for first...

I have precisely the same experience. Sometimes right in, other times right in after putting in 3rd AND THEN 1st, and other times requires a little more brute force. And this is on a rebuilt gearbox.



Curious

Was a new synchro ring used on 1st?

and

Was a 2-5 dog gear used with corresponding dual brake bands.

I did a lot of research and determined that using a 2-5 dog tooth gear on first was not an issue.

So I'm leaning towards the new very stiff synchro ring is contributing to the problem. Of course this assumes everything else has been ruled out, clutch adjust, linkage adjusted, new bushing, etc, etc.

?????

Thanks

jjs3rd914
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BeatNavy
post Nov 21 2018, 01:17 PM
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QUOTE(jjs3rd914 @ Nov 21 2018, 02:00 PM) *

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Nov 21 2018, 05:15 AM) *

QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Nov 21 2018, 07:59 AM) *

Both of mine are bitchy going into first...sometimes drop right in, most times hard to get that full click in. Try just a bit looser on the clutch cable maybe to see if that helps. I always drop it in just before the car comes to a stop but it's bad if I let it sit in neutral then try for first...

I have precisely the same experience. Sometimes right in, other times right in after putting in 3rd AND THEN 1st, and other times requires a little more brute force. And this is on a rebuilt gearbox.



Curious

Was a new synchro ring used on 1st?

and

Was a 2-5 dog gear used with corresponding dual brake bands.

I did a lot of research and determined that using a 2-5 dog tooth gear on first was not an issue.

So I'm leaning towards the new very stiff synchro ring is contributing to the problem. Of course this assumes everything else has been ruled out, clutch adjust, linkage adjusted, new bushing, etc, etc.

?????

Thanks

jjs3rd914

Honestly, I can't remember. I sent the internals to Dr. Evil, and he refreshed it about 2 or 3 years ago. I'd have to go through a long string of PM's to see what he replaced and what he assessed as not requiring replacement. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with it and with Mike's service - just 1st gear is sometimes "bitchy" as wndsrfr describes.

I have another 901 sitting in my basement that I rebuilt. Pretty much everything is brand new in that, and I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs once I have reason to mate it to something.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Nov 21 2018, 01:36 PM
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yes they are hard going into first especially with a new synchro band. Sometimes have to shift into second and then go back down into first. Since you have a new synchro, maybe fill with Swepco transmission fluid and just drive for awhile.
We assume that they did a proper job on the gearbox and everything is tight (like the rear expansion bolt) and that the shifter bushings are well lubricated
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KELTY360
post Nov 21 2018, 02:14 PM
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I think this is fairly normal. In 1973, when I had a new 1.7, I remember the same issue. If I was at a full stop it could be difficult to shift into first. Shifting into 3rd and then 1st solved those instances. I got into the habit of shifting into 1st just before coming to a full stop and that worked fine. I've experienced similar issues in many of the 914s I've driven over the years.
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jjs3rd914
post Nov 21 2018, 02:59 PM
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Thanks all,

Yes all bushing are lubricated. Everything done by the book on the rebuild. I'm using Kendall NS-MP 80w-90, which I use in our 74 911 as well.

I've read that Swepco will find a leak very easily--True??

Anyhow. My best luck is going into 3rd then1st, seems to work better than going into 2nd. It also seems to help by going into first directly when just coming to a stop as others have pointed out. That works great at a stop sign, but at an long red light - nah do not want to leave clutch in while waiting.

So we'll give it some time to break in and report back.

But it seems to me there must be a solution without going exotic like cable shifters etc.

I can tell you. I bought a new 914 in 1972 (yes we are that old and only paid around $4300) and that was of course a tail shifter. I do not remember having this type of issue we are having now with a side shift! Of course that was xxx years ago so memory might be a little foggy.

Thanks
jjs3rd914
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Nov 21 2018, 03:04 PM
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Swepco is super slick and good for the syncros and making the car easier to shift. A lot of the racers use it


QUOTE(jjs3rd914 @ Nov 21 2018, 01:59 PM) *

Thanks all,

Yes all bushing are lubricated. Everything done by the book on the rebuild. I'm using Kendall NS-MP 80w-90, which I use in our 74 911 as well.

I've read that Swepco will find a leak very easily--True??

Anyhow. My best luck is going into 3rd then1st, seems to work better than going into 2nd. It also seems to help by going into first directly when just coming to a stop as others have pointed out. That works great at a stop sign, but at an long red light - nah do not want to leave clutch in while waiting.

So we'll give it some time to break in and report back.

But it seems to me there must be a solution without going exotic like cable shifters etc.

I can tell you. I bought a new 914 in 1972 (yes we are that old and only paid around $4300) and that was of course a tail shifter. I do not remember having this type of issue we are having now with a side shift! Of course that was xxx years ago so memory might be a little foggy.

Thanks
jjs3rd914
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r_towle
post Nov 21 2018, 07:22 PM
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2nd to 1st all the time.
Learn the habit
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jjs3rd914
post Nov 22 2018, 07:37 AM
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I think it is Red Line fluid that tends to finds leaks more than others. I do not mean to reference Swepco or Red Line in a negative way. If my problem persists, I will give it Swepco a try.

Thanks

jjs3rd914

QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Nov 21 2018, 01:04 PM) *

Swepco is super slick and good for the syncros and making the car easier to shift. A lot of the racers use it


QUOTE(jjs3rd914 @ Nov 21 2018, 01:59 PM) *

Thanks all,

Yes all bushing are lubricated. Everything done by the book on the rebuild. I'm using Kendall NS-MP 80w-90, which I use in our 74 911 as well.

I've read that Swepco will find a leak very easily--True??

Anyhow. My best luck is going into 3rd then1st, seems to work better than going into 2nd. It also seems to help by going into first directly when just coming to a stop as others have pointed out. That works great at a stop sign, but at an long red light - nah do not want to leave clutch in while waiting.

So we'll give it some time to break in and report back.

But it seems to me there must be a solution without going exotic like cable shifters etc.

I can tell you. I bought a new 914 in 1972 (yes we are that old and only paid around $4300) and that was of course a tail shifter. I do not remember having this type of issue we are having now with a side shift! Of course that was xxx years ago so memory might be a little foggy.

Thanks
jjs3rd914


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Porschef
post Nov 22 2018, 07:51 AM
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I'll third or fourth the same. My last bugaboo was the bushing in the console, it was bronze and had a lot of slop. I turned a new one out of Delrin, and that made a large difference in engaging first smoothly, especially in the "having to muscle" it part. However, I still find that dropping it into 3rd first, and then into 1st, makes for a better transition.

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