Polishing small chrome bits, Tips and Tricks? Options

[bbrock]

Okay, I just got a quote for re-chroming inner and outer door handles, early window crank bases, and the side mirror mount and post of $800. All of a sudden I'm seeing the minor blemishes on the parts as "charming patina." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Plan B is to just polish them up as best I can. They are all in pretty good shape. Mostly I'd like to get rid of some fine scratches on the outer door handles if possible (Looks like maybe they were cleaned with a scrubber sponge at some point). Anyone have suggestions on buffing wheels, compounds, techniques, etc.? I already went over most of the parts with Mother's which, of course, shined up the chrome but door handles will need a little more aggressive polishing I think.

[Superhawk996]

@bbrock

See I knew you'd come around on that patina thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Buffing wheel is the way to go.

Mine is just a simple HF bench grinder on a stand. The stand is the key since it gives you maneuverability. I also ended up turning up an arbror extension on one side to get more reach on big parts. Of course, a real buffer would be nice to have but you would be amazed at what I've polished on that cheap HF unit. Probably not such a big issue with these small parts.

The real issue is the need to keep buffing wheels seperated by what compound you've used.

You also want a variety of wheels. In your case you can skip the coarse sisal wheels that you might use for stainless steel.

I'd start with a loose cotton wheel and try White Rouge. That should be just enough to shine them without any scratching or serious material removal. You can always go back to something more agressive like Tripoli compound but honestly that is probably too much for chrome. Then you'll end up having to go back to White Rouge to get a decent polish and shine. Jewlers Rouge is even finer but will barely touch hard surfaces like chrome. And it will just make a mess by sticking in surface imperfections if the surface isn't already perfectly smooth. It's intended for soft metals; gold, silver, aluminum, etc.

Also you could use a sewn cotton buff with the white rouge that will give you an in between combination where White Roughe on a loose buff isn't agressive enough but where you don't want to try Tripoli.

My experience is that you typically need to buy 2 or sometimes 3 wheels to fill the grinder arbor and to have enough useful surface area. Because of the permutations of buff (sisal, sewn, loose) and compounds (Emery, Tripoli, White Rouge, Jewlers Rouge, Plastic Polish) you can see how quickly you build up a stack of buffing wheels.

Also buy a buffer rake. Fresh compound makes a difference in the end result.

You are pretty creative - could maybe rig up a way to do on the cheap with a drill in the vise and smaller wheels but to be honest, you really want the bigger wheels (6-8") to get enough surface speed on the wheel to do the work. Small 3" wheels held in a drill are for OK detail work but a PITA.

[ValcoOscar]

Okay, I just got a quote for re-chroming inner and outer door handles, early window crank bases, and the side mirror mount and post of $800. All of a sudden I'm seeing the minor blemishes on the parts as "charming patina." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Plan B is to just polish them up as best I can. They are all in pretty good shape. Mostly I'd like to get rid of some fine scratches on the outer door handles if possible (Looks like maybe they were cleaned with a scrubber sponge at some point). Anyone have suggestions on buffing wheels, compounds, techniques, etc.? I already went over most of the parts with Mother's which, of course, shined up the chrome but door handles will need a little more aggressive polishing I think.

Keep at it, but $800 for chroming that lot is high, IMO

If you prepare and are happy with the prep, I believe I can have that chromed for less than $400, for sure. LMK

Oscar

[Cairo94507]

I am just basing this on my experience, but for that small amount you are double + the price it should cost. I would say to make sure the parts were clean when you take them in for the quote. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ValcoOscar]

I am just basing this on my experience, but for that small amount you are double + the price it should cost. I would say to make sure the parts were clean when you take them in for the quote. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Shop around...the chrome shops that are open, are hungry for work at the moment.

Best of luck,

Oscar

[914e]

Mothers on a cotton Dremel buffing wheel worked pretty well for me in the small areas. The Mothers on a 2-3 foam pad in drill worked on larger areas.
It seems to work pretty well on hard plastics as well. I picked up a head light polishing kit to see if that does any better on the plastics.

I'm not having much luck with the anodized aluminum I can't get rid of the clouding.

[Superhawk996]

Mothers on a cotton Dremel buffing wheel worked pretty well for me in the small areas. The Mothers on a 2-3 foam pad in drill worked on larger areas.
It seems to work pretty well on hard plastics as well. I picked up a head light polishing kit to see if that does any better on the plastics.

I'm not having much luck with the anodized aluminum I can't get rid of the clouding.

@914e

Anodized aluminum doesn't polish well as you've noted.

You'll need to sand off the anodize layer and then polish the raw aluminum and do regular maintenance polishing. You can also have the anodize chemically stripped, polished, and then reannodized clear to avoid the maintenance polishing.

[bbrock]

Thanks all. Phil, I probably have that same cheap HF grinder. I use it to wire wheel all my parts before zinc plating. I also have one cotton buffing wheel but don't know what is on it. Some green compound. I also have a stick of white rouge but it's at least 20 years old so probably should go fresh. looks like I need to pick up some supplies. I'll start with the wheels on the grinder and have the Dremel with cotton wheel and Mothers ready for any detail needed.

It is some comfort that the quote seemed high. This is our "local" (only 150 miles) guy and he does great work but I think cashes in on being the only game in hundreds of miles.

At this point, I think I'll see where polishing gets me and go from there. Except for the outer door handles, the rest of these parts could be bolted on after a light cleaning and be fine. They look more rough in that pic than they are because they've been sitting in an open box for months gathering dust that I didn't bother to wipe off before snapping the pic. If they were in worse shape, re-chrome would be worth $400 but right now I probably have better places to spend my limited funds on this build. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mepstein]

I doubt rouge goes bad with age.
I have both a hf grinder and buffer. The buffer has a different shaft than the grinder. They were each less than $40 and I’ve used them for years. They are fine for home hobbies.
The chrome pipes on my 1974 motorcycles were rusty and dull. I used aluminum foil with some water to polish. Turned out great but I was going for shiny from 3 feet, not show chrome.

Below is before and after.

[FlacaProductions]

I'd buff up what you can and get it on the car keeping the stuff you can't tolerate for sending off "later" - like during the winters in the future....you might like the patina. Some of it's endearing.

[bbrock]

I'd buff up what you can and get it on the car keeping the stuff you can't tolerate for sending off "later" - like during the winters in the future....you might like the patina. Some of it's endearing.

Let me tell you, I started LOVING the patina about 12 seconds after getting that price quote.

I already installed this just a few minutes ago:

[mepstein]

Looks like you have an early mirror on a midyear car.

[bbrock]

Looks like you have an early mirror on a midyear car.

Doesn't surprise me. Out of curiosity, when was the switch? This car is a crazy mix and match of early and late parts. Part of the charm of this little beauty. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Superhawk996]

I doubt rouge goes bad with age.

I see someone is an Italian bike fan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Guessing Guzzi or Ducatti. I have a set of Lafranconi pipes on my Guzzi. Those turned out real nice given the starting point.

I've never seen any of my compounds go bad, and I have some that are at least 10 years old.

At the core of it, they are a compound of grease / wax and the abrasive. The heat of contact with the wheel melts them onto the buff. Abrasive then does the work.

When I said get a buffing wheel rake and fresh compound helps, I meant within that application. Keep plenty of freshly applied compound on the wheel. Let the wheel do the work. When it doesn't cut as well, rake the wheel, and then apply more componund.

[mepstein]

Looks like you have an early mirror on a midyear car.

Doesn't surprise me. Out of curiosity, when was the switch? This car is a crazy mix and match of early and late parts. Part of the charm of this little beauty. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

I think 73 went to the larger mirror with a curved arm and a larger inside mirror. But I'm not the right one to quote dates of changeovers.