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> 1.7 vs 2.0, which one to go
Stef914
post Aug 19 2021, 09:29 PM
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Hi guys, still pretty new to 914's and still haven't found one ... but I'm currently looking at one model that I like and I'm ready to make an offer for it... tho I have a dilemma which I hope you guys can help me solve (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

A few weeks back I test drove a 2.0 and I remember it being pretty nippy on 1st, 2nd and up to speed ... today I test drove this 1.7 that I like, was cold and didn't want to abuse it , but I felt like the car was less powerful, which makes total sense being just a 1.7 but long story short, how much am I gonna miss those 20 hp difference ? Not planning on going racing or anything like that but just curious to hear your opinion and thoughts about this difference

Thank you

PS
It's a 1973 914 with two webber carbs and a modified ( louder ) muffler exhaust system
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ClayPerrine
post Aug 19 2021, 09:34 PM
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I would pick the one that has the least rust. It is far easier to replace the 1.7 engine with a 2.0 than it is to cut out and fix rust.

Good luck!

Clay
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JamesM
post Aug 19 2021, 11:40 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Aug 19 2021, 07:34 PM) *

I would pick the one that has the least rust. It is far easier to replace the 1.7 engine with a 2.0 than it is to cut out and fix rust.

Good luck!

Clay


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Get someone that knows these cars to check out the chassis and get the cleanest chassis and body you can find.

Interiors are no big deal to replace these days and if power is what you are after you will wind up replacing either of the motors anyways.

If it has carbs its already been modified, so who knows what has actually been done to it. Personally, I wont do carbs on a 914 but thats just me (and carbs are bolt on so thats no big deal) The California delivered (just California) '73 1.7s are the weakest motor ever put in a 914 and noticeably slower than the 2.0s. Non CA 1.7s are not to bad. If you are only noticing a minor difference between the two either the 1.7 has been modified, wasnt originally a CA car, or the 2.0 isnt running right.

I currently have both a stock injected 1.7 and a stock injected 2.0 and I enjoy them both (actually think i spend more time driving the 1.7 lately). Had a 73 CA 1.7 and it was a total dog on the onramps but still a fun car. When I want to go fast or autocross though I take my built 2056.

Bottom line, buy the cleanest chassis you can find/afford and just plan on making the rest of the car the way you want it down the line, engines are easy to swap.
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Arno914
post Aug 20 2021, 01:04 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Fully agree! Get the best chassis you can find! (They all have rust, came from the factory as an no cost option.)

For real estate it is "Lage, Lage, Lage (Location) that matters.
For old cars it is "Zustand, Zustand, Zustand" (Condition) that matters.

1.7´s are a lot of fun, too. Remember, they weigh about half of what a todays car weighs. That makes even 80hp look pretty good. I don´t feel my 1.7 is too slow for the german autobahn. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Annother plus for the 1.7: Most folks look for 2.0, so you might need less cash to make your dream come true.

Good luck!
Arno
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930cabman
post Aug 20 2021, 04:55 AM
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Welcome aboard mate, I agree with all of the above. Rust is the big factor when restoring the 914. Finding a reasonably rust free example will pay off. Engines, interiors, paint can all be changed without much difficulty, but rust is not so simple.
Good luck with your search
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Stef914
post Aug 20 2021, 09:58 AM
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Thank you all and I'm noting all of your advices !

Speaking of rust this one model's got some slight rust under to where the infamous 'hell hole' is . The 'hell hole' itself has been replaced and adjusted ... So my biggest concern is the spot of rust under the passenger seat , next to the edge of the door almost...

Owner said car has been treated for rust, some sort of chemical reaction that stop rust and turns the molecular reaction into something else... or at least that's how he was explaining it to me ... wonder if there's even such a thing ...

Thank you
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rjames
post Aug 20 2021, 10:09 AM
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QUOTE(Stef914 @ Aug 20 2021, 08:58 AM) *

Thank you all and I'm noting all of your advices !

Speaking of rust this one model's got some slight rust under to where the infamous 'hell hole' is . The 'hell hole' itself has been replaced and adjusted ... So my biggest concern is the spot of rust under the passenger seat , next to the edge of the door almost...

Owner said car has been treated for rust, some sort of chemical reaction that stop rust and turns the molecular reaction into something else... or at least that's how he was explaining it to me ... wonder if there's even such a thing ...

Thank you


There is such a thing. But you need to verify if it was just surface rust or not. Find someone who knows these cars well to look at it for you. There are lots of examples of cars that have seen rust "repairs" by the previous owners, but weren't really done correctly, or were done in such a way to just hide a bigger problem.
You should also remove the rocker panels that run below the doors between the front and rear wheel wells on the outside of the car.

You talked a bit about the 1.7, but what is it about the 2.0 that you don't like?
Post pics if you can.
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Shivers
post Aug 20 2021, 10:12 AM
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There are other products

https://store.interstateproducts.com/produc...CQaAjm0EALw_wcB
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Jamie
post Aug 20 2021, 10:38 AM
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QUOTE(Shivers @ Aug 20 2021, 08:12 AM) *

Such rust converters somewhat stop the rust process, but do nothing to restore structural strength lost to the rust in place.
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Cairo94507
post Aug 20 2021, 11:53 AM
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Best chassis possible, best chassis possible, best chassis possible. Anything that coverts rust is not returning it to the metal it once was. People that act like treating the existing rust is solving their problem are delusional IMHO. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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iankarr
post Aug 20 2021, 01:35 PM
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It's been said 1000 times, but...buy the best car you can afford. WAY cheaper in the long run. Okay, now 1001 times.

I made a video series for "newbies" which you may find helpful...

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmCY...PWMX9ecEK-qsKZs
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rjames
post Aug 20 2021, 02:09 PM
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Will echo others that you should get the best car you can find, but I will also add that you should also get what you want engine-wise (1.7 vs 2.0). Upgrading later won't be cheap and prices are usually similar for both, all other things being equal.
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bbrock
post Aug 20 2021, 05:44 PM
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I agree with all the advice to focus on the chassis and rust first.

That said, and all other things being equal, I find the stock 2.0L engine ideal for this car. Light and nimble with noticeably more pep than the 1.7L without sacrificing much fuel economy. The 1.7L is still a very fun car but has just enough power to make it fun. As was mentioned, I always noticed it most at on ramps. The 2L is no speed demon but I don't have any trouble reaching the 80 mph speed limit before merging onto highways here and it has just enough power to feel it pull out of corners.

There is no way to answer your question of whether you will miss those 20 ponies. Having owned and driven two 1.7L 914s and one 2L, my preference is for the 2L but that preference isn't strong enough to not consider a nice 1.7

2L cars usually also have sway bars which I think contribute as much or more to feel and performance as the larger displacement. Easy enough to add to cars that don't have them and well worth it IMO.
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dirk2056
post Aug 20 2021, 07:16 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) lot cheaper to make a 1.7 into 2056 than repair rust and paint. Best of luck this is great community of car owners. They or most helpful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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wonkipop
post Aug 20 2021, 07:40 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Aug 20 2021, 05:44 PM) *

I agree with all the advice to focus on the chassis and rust first.

That said, and all other things being equal, I find the stock 2.0L engine ideal for this car. Light and nimble with noticeably more pep than the 1.7L without sacrificing much fuel economy. The 1.7L is still a very fun car but has just enough power to make it fun. As was mentioned, I always noticed it most at on ramps. The 2L is no speed demon but I don't have any trouble reaching the 80 mph speed limit before merging onto highways here and it has just enough power to feel it pull out of corners.

There is no way to answer your question of whether you will miss those 20 ponies. Having owned and driven two 1.7L 914s and one 2L, my preference is for the 2L but that preference isn't strong enough to not consider a nice 1.7

2L cars usually also have sway bars which I think contribute as much or more to feel and performance as the larger displacement. Easy enough to add to cars that don't have them and well worth it IMO.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
the bit about the sway bars.
a lot of 74 1.8s came with sway bars out of the box.
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Stef914
post Aug 20 2021, 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the videos and for the advices ... lemme know if you ever stumble upon a 'nice' 914 for sale ( hopefully in CA ) search continues but is harder then I thought (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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930cabman
post Aug 21 2021, 11:51 AM
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QUOTE(Stef914 @ Aug 20 2021, 11:23 PM) *

Thanks for the videos and for the advices ... lemme know if you ever stumble upon a 'nice' 914 for sale ( hopefully in CA ) search continues but is harder then I thought (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)


Best to take your time and find a nice one. Depending on your budget, there are some low mileage clean examples out there. Also, these are about 50 years old and who knows what has happened to many of these over the years.
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burton73
post Aug 23 2021, 12:39 PM
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Like I went over with you yesterday when you looked over my 75. All of the small stuff adds up big time.

Same with an older Boxster. I hope you know more today that you did a week ago. Best regards,


Bob B
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