914 V8 Resurrection, Fuel Tank / Carb questions Options

[MM1]

Dear 914 Guru’s,

I recently picked up the (carbureted) red 1974 914-V8 project that was sold here on the world. I’m hoping the brain trust can guide me in getting started . . .

The tank and sending unit are all crusty - I’d like to avoid the tank cleaning/re-lining nightmares I’ve gone through before and just get a new tank. I can pick up a Dansk 1973 and earlier tank along with a URO fuel level sending unit for around $360(shipped). Will these install (without mods) and work with the straps/wiring/gauges of a 1974? (There’s no expansion tank/charcoal canister in the car.)Any opinions on these 2 parts/brands (vs Dansk sending unit)?

Is it worth it to spend quite a bit more ($525+ at Pelican) for the Dansk 1974-up tank and a Dansk fuel level sending unit (website said it only works with 100L tank . . .is there a capacity difference between gen 1 and gen 2 tanks?)?

Carburetor: it’s a Weber 4-barrel- I haven’t found any numbers yet and I have no idea what CFM it is. I didn’t even know Weber made a four barrel and it’s difficult to find much info on the Internet . . . I thought I read it’s a Carter AFB copy - I cannot confirm that though. They are still sold for marine applications.

Any thoughts? The car sat for many years and the PO who had it about six weeks said he cleaned the jets out but didn’t rebuild the carb. I got it to start a few times and after it warmed up it seemed to fuel correctly but ran out of fuel or got clogged up after a few minutes of running ( at which point I opened up the tank to see that it was quite crusty). Should I rebuild this carb ? Or would it be smarter to buy a new carb ?( it’s a Chevrolet 283c.i. V8 with an Edelbrock Performer intake and rams horn exhaust manifolds and an electric fuel pump in the engine bay. I have no idea if it is a stock motor or not- the only thing I could find in the records is that one shop thought it was from 1968.)

If some of you suggest a new carb instead of rebuilding the Weber what CFM and brand would you go with?

Your advice, as always, deeply appreciated and priceless. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[Root_Werks]

Sounds like the carb might be okay and just clogging the fuel strainer and/or filter.

I don't have any experience with pre or post 73 tank swapping, but would spring for the extra and get the matched year tank. Would suck to pull a tank, go to install the new one only to discover hours of work to make it fit and work correctly.

It's a cool 914 and nice score! Can't wait for some driving impressions from you.

[FL000]

I have a 73 and put a Dansk in last year. Not sure what differences there are putting it in a 74, but I did have to transfer my charcoal canister tab over. Maybe not an issue if you don’t plan to run them. Agree getting correct one for your year may be better in the long run in case you want to add that stuff in.

For a 283 I wouldn’t recommend over 600 CFM carb.

[Front yard mechanic]

I would buy a new carb if you have the $ a new holley 600 can be had for 379.00 on Amazon I would stay away from an edelbrock they are a pain to set up . To bad you cannot just clean the tank and put in a high quality in line fuel pump. Good luck looking forward to your progress (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tygaboy]

I have a Dansk tank in my '75 V8 car. They fit fine and with no smog stuff, you'll love it. I got mine via Parts Geek for just over $200 shipped. That was maybe a year ago so $ may have changed.

[slowrodent]

Just an opinion... but if it was mine, I'd look into a new fuel injection setup (Holley, Fitech) for it. I'd imagine it would work wonders for that ole' v8 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Worry-free performance for miles!

[tygaboy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I almost added this very comment but didn't want to force you into a carb vs FI conversation. But I will say, FI is absolutely so very cool! No smell, tunable, tidy.
I confess I'm a tech junkie but it really is a great way to go.

And with that door open, just some more info for you: The less expensive stuff (Holley Terminator, Sniper) is less expensive for a reason when compared to Holley's HP/Dominator series. Quality of components, physically heft, capabilities.
Certainly depends on what you want/need but just be aware, if you do go FI.

And yes, if it's a Chevy, Holley stuff is pretty hard to beat. There is a TON of experience and support out there for the SBC/Holley combo.

Best of luck and keep the updates coming!

[MM1]

Thank you all for your advice and support!

[MM1]

Sounds like there's not much to say about the Weber 4-barrel . . .

Anyone have experience with Dansk vs. URO fuel senders?

[Robarabian]

The Carter copy is a 500 CFM model... remember, you are not running a 350 but a 283.. a 350 can handle a 600-650 CFM.. anything more than 550 will overcarburate that thing.


I like the Holley setup, the 2 barrel version is for an engine your size.

No input on the gas tanks. I think we clean the weber.. I have a Carter for you if you want it. It may be large for the car.

Rob

[MM1]

The Carter copy is a 500 CFM model... remember, you are not running a 350 but a 283.. a 350 can handle a 600-650 CFM.. anything more than 550 will overcarburate that thing.


I like the Holley setup, the 2 barrel version is for an engine your size.

No input on the gas tanks. I think we clean the weber.. I have a Carter for you if you want it. It may be large for the car.

Rob

Thanks, Rob -sounds good!

[john ee quest]

Dear 914 Guru’s,

I recently picked up the (carbureted) red 1974 914-V8 project that was sold here on the world. I’m hoping the brain trust can guide me in getting started . . .

The tank and sending unit are all crusty - I’d like to avoid the tank cleaning/re-lining nightmares I’ve gone through before and just get a new tank. I can pick up a Dansk 1973 and earlier tank along with a URO fuel level sending unit for around $360(shipped). Will these install (without mods) and work with the straps/wiring/gauges of a 1974? (There’s no expansion tank/charcoal canister in the car.)Any opinions on these 2 parts/brands (vs Dansk sending unit)?

Is it worth it to spend quite a bit more ($525+ at Pelican) for the Dansk 1974-up tank and a Dansk fuel level sending unit (website said it only works with 100L tank . . .is there a capacity difference between gen 1 and gen 2 tanks?)?

Carburetor: it’s a Weber 4-barrel- I haven’t found any numbers yet and I have no idea what CFM it is. I didn’t even know Weber made a four barrel and it’s difficult to find much info on the Internet . . . I thought I read it’s a Carter AFB copy - I cannot confirm that though. They are still sold for marine applications.

Any thoughts? The car sat for many years and the PO who had it about six weeks said he cleaned the jets out but didn’t rebuild the carb. I got it to start a few times and after it warmed up it seemed to fuel correctly but ran out of fuel or got clogged up after a few minutes of running ( at which point I opened up the tank to see that it was quite crusty). Should I rebuild this carb ? Or would it be smarter to buy a new carb ?( it’s a Chevrolet 283c.i. V8 with an Edelbrock Performer intake and rams horn exhaust manifolds and an electric fuel pump in the engine bay. I have no idea if it is a stock motor or not- the only thing I could find in the records is that one shop thought it was from 1968.)

If some of you suggest a new carb instead of rebuilding the Weber what CFM and brand would you go with?

Your advice, as always, deeply appreciated and priceless. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[john ee quest]

I had the same question, I thought all years were the same - except for some type of expansion tank bracket. I called Auto Atlanta & spoke to DR. 914, he confirmed the fact they r all the same shape except for the expansion tank bracket location.

[Shivers]

Sounds like there's not much to say about the Weber 4-barrel . . .

Anyone have experience with Dansk vs. URO fuel senders?

283, very cool. A nice short stroke that can be made to scream like a banshee. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) There really is a replacement for displacement. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Forget that weber. Been there junked that

[MM1]

Thank you for checking into that @ John ee quest!

[Chris914n6]

So the tank crust is likely not as bad as you think.

A chemical reaction happens between the ethanol in our E10 gas and the decades of varnish from the pure gas coating the tank walls that creates a fine powder. The powder will wash out with soap & water. But, this fine powder went thru the system possibly past the filter. So the filter, hoses, pump, and carb (injectors) will have this crap clogging all the holes. You will need to do a good cleaning of the whole system.

The E10, if it sits unmixed for a year or even less will rust out most metal parts, soften rubber seals & such, and cause white plastic hoses to dry out and break. It's a safe bet that a car that hasn't been driven within a year will need a new pump assm because the feed hose and strainer has crumbled.

Make sure the new rubber hose is rated for ethanol, 30r14 or better.

Look into a FiTech. Basically self-learning TBI with o2 that will give you all the driveability of modern FI. There is no way to keep the E10 from separating in the bowl so you will have starting/running problems if the car sits a month.
I have to run the pump a minute every weekend to keep it from damaging the system again. I didn't know this so had to replace the hoses under the tank a year later because the ethanol ate the rubber and was leaking. The heat might quicken the separation but data on the negatives of E10 are hard to find.

Slow work day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[MM1]

Got the tank out yesterday tank. . .I'll spare you the pic of what appears to be a a few clamps missing and what appears to be a vacuum line on the return - no markings and thin/flexible (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

There were no bolts for the filler assembly - but I can confirm that the fuel sender bolts would work. Does anyone happen to know the specs on those bolts/washers? I'm hoping Home Depot has them.

[MM1]

Thank you @Chris914n6 for the E10/powder through the filter lesson! Once I get this thing running properly, it won't sit more than a day or 2 without a proper drive . . promise . ..thankfully mountain roads begin in my backyard . . .sooo thankful!

Of course, truth be told, my 72 Jimmy sits for longer than a few weeks at a time - need to get on that . . .changed (most of) the the fuel hoses on that - I'll have to see if they were Ethanol rated - bought them at a local FLAPS.

[nivekdodge]

So the tank crust is likely not as bad as you think.

A chemical reaction happens between the ethanol in our E10 gas and the decades of varnish from the pure gas coating the tank walls that creates a fine powder. The powder will wash out with soap & water. But, this fine powder went thru the system possibly past the filter. So the filter, hoses, pump, and carb (injectors) will have this crap clogging all the holes. You will need to do a good cleaning of the whole system.

The E10, if it sits unmixed for a year or even less will rust out most metal parts, soften rubber seals & such, and cause white plastic hoses to dry out and break. It's a safe bet that a car that hasn't been driven within a year will need a new pump assm because the feed hose and strainer has crumbled.

Make sure the new rubber hose is rated for ethanol, 30r9 or better.

Look into a FiTech. Basically self-learning TBI with o2 that will give you all the driveability of modern FI. There is no way to keep the E10 from separating in the bowl so you will have starting/running problems if the car sits a month.
I have to run the pump a minute every weekend to keep it from damaging the system again. I didn't know this so had to replace the hoses under the tank a year later because the ethanol ate the rubber and was leaking. The heat might quicken the separation but data on the negatives of E10 are hard to find.

Slow work day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Chris,
Have you done a Fitech install on yours?

Kevin

[Chris914n6]

Chris,
Have you done a Fitech install on yours?

Kevin

No. I was looking into it for Dad's old 73 C10. Multiport would be better but the truck is all original so I don't really want to buy a new intake etc.