Porsche-Subaru Starting Problem, Should I bypass some stuff? Options

[willieg]

I have a 1974 914 with a 2001 Subaru EZ30 engine and 5 speed Subaru transmission. I bought the car with the Subie engine and tranny already installed and drive it every chance I get. Last time I went for coffee, the car would not start when I got back to my car. I turned the key to the “on” position, got all the usual noises such as fuel pump and then turned the key to start the car. Nothing. I tried again and……Nothing. On about the 8th try, the car rumbled to life just like normal.

The car would not start once I got home and the first thing I replaced was the neutral safety switch on the Subie transmission. Again, the usual noises when the ignition is “on” but no start. I then replaced the ignition switch with a new switch. Again, the car functions worked with the key “on” such as fuel pump,lights, etc but still would not start when I turned the key to start the car.

I then turned the key to the “on” position, and touched a wire directly from the positive side of the battery to the starter solenoid and the car started.

My question for those who have done this conversion is:
If I run a wire directly from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, with appropriate relay and fuse, am I bypassing anything important? I know I am bypassing the neutral safety switch but is there anything else?

Or can anyone who has done this conversion point me to other possible points of failure? The car has been off the road for two weeks and I am not getting any younger.

[904svo]

sound like you should replace the ignition switch, this common problem even with 914

[willieg]

sound like you should replace the ignition switch, this common problem even with 914

Thanks. That was my second step. Still no action.

[Chris H.]

@76-914

[Costa05]

Not sure how your 914 wiring harness spliced into the Subaru side, but mine is done where the old relay box (removed) in the engine bay. 914 wiring side is the fat yellow wire coming from ignition switch start position. Might check for voltage there with multimeter and key in start position. Could be a bad splice connector. Could be bad starter solenoid.

[nada911]

@76-914

Narrow down where you are not getting current. Does the starter solenoid get current when key is turned? That wire needs to be a tight connection as it can come loose with driving. If no current when key is turned, trace back to where the next location of current is which would be your ignition switch unless you have a relay wired in there: Some people use them so less current is being carried through the ignition switch). If so, then if the 30 pole (hot) side of the relay is dead, then go back to the ignition switch. If its hot and the 87 pole is dead it would be the relay or its fuse etc.

[nada911]

@76-914

Narrow down where you are not getting current. Does the starter solenoid get current when key is turned? That wire needs to be a tight connection as it can come loose with driving. If no current when key is turned, trace back to where the next location of current is which would be your ignition switch unless you have a relay wired in there: Some people use them so less current is being carried through the ignition switch). If so, then if the 30 pole (hot) side of the relay is dead, then go back to the ignition switch. If its hot and the 87 pole is dead it would be the relay or its fuse etc.

Forgot to add that it could also be a flat spot on the starter windings (if old).

[76-914]

Sorry for the late reply. Getting ready for a vacation and things are hectic. I can't add anything to what others have added. Check the ground on your neutral switch too. If that spade came off the solenoid it would be a good idea to add some heat shrink tubing to that spade connection to keep it in place.