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Huck271 |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 19-February 23 From: The Woodlands, TX Member No.: 27,172 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
I am looking at picking up a 914 and turning it into a track/autocross car. My questions are high level. If you can assist with any or all any assistance is appreciated.
Body Fenders - Plan to go wide body to fit larger tires, recommendations/pros/cons ? Metal/fiberglass? Floor Pans - they don't look bad, but I saw somewhere that you can replace them with deeper ones for sitting lower, i'm tall so every inch counts. Braces/stiffing - full cage or something in the rear tied into shock towers and something in the front tied to shock towers roll cage - needed? recommended? custom or weld in off the shelf? Suspension Front Hubs - do you upgrade replace these, someone told me swap with 911 to get 5 lug? Coil Overs at the corners? recommendations? Sway Bars? Torsion Bars? Upgrade rack and pinion? Fuel system Fuel Tank - Assume being a 50 year old car to redo the fuel system and get a fuel cell with integrated fuel pump and braided lines, any recommendations? Transmission Keep or upgrade from a 911 or similar to handle more power? Hoping to get 300+ in the motor Braking If I upgrade to 5 lug, then i assume there is a prefered brake upgrade from a 911 for more stopping power Steering Wheel Its not in the center of the driver seat, have people moved it to be more centered? Dash if I move the steering wheel i assume this gets redone with new gauges etc. Front lights i'm thinking or relocating to the bumper and getting a solid frunk with no holes for lights. Cleaner looking Targa top I would assume you can't race with this on so do people ditch it altogether? Motor swap a 6 or go nuts and do an LS? Thanks, |
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brant |
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#2
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,953 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Really you want to make modifications from a different perspective if you intend to race or compete
As a street car. Do what you want But as a competition car it’s easy to make a change that puts you into a higher class where you can’t compete or possibly won’t be eligible at all to run in that series You want to use the rule book to dictate what is legal You want to pick the classification within the club and then what modifications Pick your club Visit the club Talk to other competitors in the events Then decide the class and use the rule book |
rhodyguy |
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#3
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22,240 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() |
What Brant wrote. Fairly sure that 300hp will require major chassis strengthening and upgrades. Gear box too. Maybe CVs. Deep well.
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Charles Freeborn |
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 282 Joined: 21-May 14 From: United States Member No.: 17,377 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
As said, build to whichever rule set that the sanctioning body you'll be competing in uses.
Then, what is your budget? When you've sorted those two, here are some resources. Cage - Autopower is budget friendly. You'll have to add on for your suspension point pickups, but their basic cages are sound. Otherwise there are custom fabricators that can build to any spec you want. If you were in this area I could recommend a few. Brakes / suspension (5 lug, etc) PMB Performance Suspension - Elephant Racing Transmission - California Motorsports Engine - depends on which way you go but for 4 cyl European Motorworks for parts and machining, for a 6 you can't go wrong with a Rothsport built engine, for LS I have no idea.. For us tall guys (i'm 6'4" you'll probably have to go speedster style (no roof) so the main hoop of the cage can be higher than the original roofline / Targa bar. Look up "Ginther 914" and you'll see what I mean. My car is done this way. Yes you can / should race with the top if you choose to keep it. Mine has an ATL Sp 115 fuel cell, external electric pump. |
Huck271 |
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#5
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 19-February 23 From: The Woodlands, TX Member No.: 27,172 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
As said, build to whichever rule set that the sanctioning body you'll be competing in uses. Then, what is your budget? When you've sorted those two, here are some resources. Cage - Autopower is budget friendly. You'll have to add on for your suspension point pickups, but their basic cages are sound. Otherwise there are custom fabricators that can build to any spec you want. If you were in this area I could recommend a few. Brakes / suspension (5 lug, etc) PMB Performance Suspension - Elephant Racing Transmission - California Motorsports Engine - depends on which way you go but for 4 cyl European Motorworks for parts and machining, for a 6 you can't go wrong with a Rothsport built engine, for LS I have no idea.. For us tall guys (i'm 6'4" you'll probably have to go speedster style (no roof) so the main hoop of the cage can be higher than the original roofline / Targa bar. Look up "Ginther 914" and you'll see what I mean. My car is done this way. Yes you can / should race with the top if you choose to keep it. Mine has an ATL Sp 115 fuel cell, external electric pump. Thank you! I'm 6'4 as well. I sat in an empty tub yesterday with the factory seat not bolted to the floor and was suprised i didn't touch the targa top, i imagine i would with a helmet. I also figured the seat could be mounted lower and i have even seen a floor pan with an inch drop in it for extra clearance. I am in the gathering information phase so appreciate the feedback. I was mainly thinking along the lines of autocross or road racing. Still looking for rule books for the different sanctioning bodies and comparing what is available close to me (Houston Tx) |
brant |
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#6
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,953 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Look up CVAR
You can run a 914 on lots of tracks with those rules But not the v8. As it is a vintage club |
Charles Freeborn |
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#7
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 282 Joined: 21-May 14 From: United States Member No.: 17,377 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
As said, build to whichever rule set that the sanctioning body you'll be competing in uses. Then, what is your budget? When you've sorted those two, here are some resources. Cage - Autopower is budget friendly. You'll have to add on for your suspension point pickups, but their basic cages are sound. Otherwise there are custom fabricators that can build to any spec you want. If you were in this area I could recommend a few. Brakes / suspension (5 lug, etc) PMB Performance Suspension - Elephant Racing Transmission - California Motorsports Engine - depends on which way you go but for 4 cyl European Motorworks for parts and machining, for a 6 you can't go wrong with a Rothsport built engine, for LS I have no idea.. For us tall guys (i'm 6'4" you'll probably have to go speedster style (no roof) so the main hoop of the cage can be higher than the original roofline / Targa bar. Look up "Ginther 914" and you'll see what I mean. My car is done this way. Yes you can / should race with the top if you choose to keep it. Mine has an ATL Sp 115 fuel cell, external electric pump. Thank you! I'm 6'4 as well. I sat in an empty tub yesterday with the factory seat not bolted to the floor and was suprised i didn't touch the targa top, i imagine i would with a helmet. I also figured the seat could be mounted lower and i have even seen a floor pan with an inch drop in it for extra clearance. I am in the gathering information phase so appreciate the feedback. I was mainly thinking along the lines of autocross or road racing. Still looking for rule books for the different sanctioning bodies and comparing what is available close to me (Houston Tx) In general the 'broomstick" rule is that if you held a broomstick from the top of the bar to the top of the next forward bar or other structural member (A pillar and top of windshield frame don't count) you need 2" clearance between the top of your helmet and the underside of the broomstick. |
yeahmag |
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#8
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,448 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Pasadena, CA Member No.: 3,946 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
You are forgetting one critical piece that will drive all others for the suspension.
Tires! The setup for a 200TW tire is way, way different than a DOT-R tire. That will be one of the main drivers in spring/torsion bar stiffness. |
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