Out with my old compressor Options

[DaveB]

Old compressor wasn't keeping up. Plus the automatic condensate drain is on a timer and would kick in when the garage was quiet and I'd be beside it. Scared the crap out of me each time. Just glad the cherry picker was tall enough to get it moved. This checks in at close to 600lbs.



Mag starter should be tomorrow. Hopefully the float type condensate drain doesn't kick in at mysterious times.


DaveB

[914Sixer]

Not the easiest item to move around for sure

[stownsen914]

Just about anything can go on wheels if needed

[76-914]

Just about anything can go on wheels if needed

Yep. Vevor makes some very good casters. IIRC, the smaller ones are rated for 2200lb and a set of 4 is <$40.

[Superhawk996]

So I assume picture is the new. That looks to be maybe a 5HP unit - can’t imagine that not keeping up.

I’m with you - I hate automatic condensate drains (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) no only because they blow down randomly but also just for the extra complexity and maintenance. Just not that hard to kick open a drain valve. Plumb a quality ball valve out to an easily accessible that you can reach with your foot. Easy peasy!

[technicalninja]

So I assume picture is the new. That looks to be maybe a 5HP unit - can’t imagine that not keeping up.

I’m with you - I hate automatic condensate drains (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) no only because they blow down randomly but also just for the extra complexity and maintenance. Just not that hard to kick open a drain valve. Plumb a quality ball valve out to an easily accessible that you can reach with your foot. Easy peasy!

Even better to plumb the exit from the drain valve so that it goes through the outer wall of your building and points directly at your dumpster.

When you have someone out back illegally dumping is the VERY BEST time to FULLY drain that tank!

Like a "super soaker" on steroids...

[Freezin 914]

So I assume picture is the new. That looks to be maybe a 5HP unit - can’t imagine that not keeping up.

I’m with you - I hate automatic condensate drains (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) no only because they blow down randomly but also just for the extra complexity and maintenance. Just not that hard to kick open a drain valve. Plumb a quality ball valve out to an easily accessible that you can reach with your foot. Easy peasy!

Even better to plumb the exit from the drain valve so that it goes through the outer wall of your building and points directly at your dumpster.

When you have someone out back illegally dumping is the VERY BEST time to FULLY drain that tank!

Like a "super soaker" on steroids...

I like this!

[76-914]

Mine dumps into a bed alongside the garage and those bushes are SUPER green. They love that iron.

[DaveB]

Well, I meant to put this into the why I didn't do anything on my 914 today. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Sorry about the general forum post.

The old compressor has been limping along but when my paint gun paused, that was the final straw. I've been working around the compressor limitations for too long.


I purchased a SB 5HP with a 60 Gal tank. I called SB with a few questions and was transferred to a general manager. Really nice to deal with a small company. The SB distributors locally support industrial sales, so I used an online broker for a commercial system. It worked out better than I expected. SB builds to order and I was told it would be finished before year end. By mid-December I figured this was a goal and not a commitment. This shipped on 22 December.


Anyone have a recommendation for a water separator to use upstream after the tank? I have an older unit and pressure regulator I will reuse downstream at my controlled clean line. I am looking to put a separator close to the tank as a first stage to collect the bulk contamination before all air lines.


Lessons learned so far. I thought the single phase 5hp may not need a mag starter. Bad idea. I forgot about the thermal protection I get with mag starters. The base unit comes unwired so the pressure switch is only mechanically mounted. No wiring info for the motor or pressure switch is supplied. So I had some 8 to 12 AWG wire around and am getting it hooked up. The Balador motor wiring was not numbered, but I remember blue+black, yellow+red s/b clockwise on their motors. That's easy to see on the fan if it's backwards. The Eaton mag starter diagrams are a PIA to use. It took me a while to figure out the box and jumpers are wired correct for three phase to one phase 5hp but it's not a T1, T2 to the motor. I only need to use L1, L2 for power in and T1, T3 under the thermal unit for power out. The pressure switch interrupts between the L1 power in and the L1 coil according to the schematic. I'll test the unit next weekend and then install a clean wiring set-up. I really don't need 6AWG for power it. Go big has its limits.








I've ordered a Bekomat 31 for the condensator. I'll snake the drain directly outside. I am using 3/4" copper from the tank and then splitting out 1/2" lines to the garage. I have a lot of copper left from a remodel I did 15 years ago. Told my wife I need to save everything - lol. If I've missed anything. let me know. It's been a long time since I planned out shop air.


Go UW in the championship game tomorrow.


DaveB

[technicalninja]

Most of the 5hp motors have internal caps.
Their usually in the hump on the top of the motor.
My IR had two, a run unit and a start unit.
Wasted the start unit at 7 years...