Wilwood big brakes, 914-4 brakes Options

[Freezin 914]

I figure some here will have more info on this, but Wilwood is advertising it has a big brake available for 914-4s. Just in case anyone would be interested. I haven’t even looked it up yet, but seen the ad in Excellence.

[burton73]

I figure some here will have more info on this, but Wilwood is advertising it has a big brake available for 914-4s. Just in case anyone would be interested. I haven’t even looked it up yet, but seen the ad in Excellence.

You guys must see what size wheels will clear the brake. Will it need a 16 inch or will a 15 work?

Best Bob

[Freezin 914]

I did go on their site, really didn’t find much. But here is the ad.

[Geezer914]

It appears the cost F&R would be around $1800-2000. You have to weigh the benefit vs cost over stock performance for a street car. Maybe on a race set up it would be justified. Stock calipers with Porterfield pads work great.

[GregAmy]

That is quite interesting!

But I'm with John (Geezer). I historics-race a 914-4 and find that the front brakes are quite adequate with the right pads; in fact, if I had a lot more front brake I'd probably be running into bias problems and possibly front lockup.

For reference, I'm running the BMW calipers, stock rotors, Hawk Blue pads, manual bias valve typically dialed a lot to the rear, and Hoosier Speedster or Continental Extreme tires.

However, one big advantage I see: replaceable rotor rings! It would be wicked cool to be able to do rotor replacments without having to repack/replace bearings.

And, of course, they look pimpy cool (I race Wilwood brakes on the SCCA Produciton car and love 'em).

I sent them an inquiry for more info.

[mepstein]

Just call them. I forget his name but they know their product.

[BIGKAT_83]

Did mine 20years ago when they were $100 a caliber

[Superhawk996]

Fact: tire grip is the single largest contributor to stopping distance.

For most people, they would get more out of a better set of tires than they would out of “upgrading” to “big” brakes.

[Shivers]

They look smaller than these and I need 16” minimum rims to fit. A big plus is weight. The M calipers that I have for the back weigh a ton, compared to the larger wilwoods for the front.

[Olympic 914]

They look smaller than these and I need 16” minimum rims to fit. A big plus is weight. The M calipers that I have for the back weigh a ton, compared to the larger wilwoods for the front.

What rotor are you running? 20 mm Vented or 24mm vented.

[Freezin 914]

Just wanted to let people know, I know I don’t need the bigger brakes, but I know plenty of you have bigger hp 6’s, Suby’s, do autox etc…..

[Shivers]

They look smaller than these and I need 16” minimum rims to fit. A big plus is weight. The M calipers that I have for the back weigh a ton, compared to the larger wilwoods for the front.

What rotor are you running? 20 mm Vented or 24mm vented.

20mm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[brant]

Fact: tire grip is the single largest contributor to stopping distance.

For most people, they would get more out of a better set of tires than they would out of “upgrading” to “big” brakes.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Shivers]

Just wanted to let people know, I know I don’t need the bigger brakes, but I know plenty of you have bigger hp 6’s, Suby’s, do autox etc…..

Weigh and horsepower make a difference, but the way you drive it also makes a difference what kind of brakes you might want. Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded. So if you are cruising to cars and coffee in it, the stock brakes with some of those cool pads Eric sells will work great.

[Superhawk996]

06:41 AM']
Just wanted to let people know, I know I don’t need the bigger brakes, but I know plenty of you have bigger hp 6’s, Suby’s, do autox etc…..

Weigh and horsepower make a difference, but the way you drive it also makes a difference what kind of brakes you might want. Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded. So if you are cruising to cars and coffee in it, the stock brakes with some of those cool pads Eric sells will work great.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with the general premise but . . .

Horsepower makes no difference at all to single stop, stopping distance. Because . . . Physics. Force = mass * acceleration. There is nothing in that equation affected by horsepower. Note: acceleration in the braking case is simply deceleration. Opposite direction of forward acceleration.

Horsepower only comes into play with repeated, hard at limit braking, with short intervals between events that limit cooling between braking events. Track use, canyon carving come to mind. I autocrossed for years on stock brakes with race compound pads and didn’t have fade since average run is only a couple minutes in duration.


Note; not a critique of Shivers. Just get tired of the internet mythology that horsepower has any bearing upon single stop, stopping distance.

[GregAmy]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

Not speaking to you directly, but it is simply amazing to me how most car guys don't understand how the pad compound you use really makes a substantial difference. Seriously. Many a braking complaint is easily resolved by "the right pad". And many a problem is caused by someone thinking they understand the concepts but getting it wrong ("why are these Hawk Blue pads tearing up my street car's rotors so bad??")

Today's pad compounds are fricken amazing. I would have killed decades ago for this technology*. And today we take it for granted...

I'd be glad to make suggestions, if we could just discuss what you're doing with them and whose pads you prefer.

GA

*Try racing Road America or Road Atlanta with dead-stock pads. That's what we used to have to do in the old Showroom Stock days of the 1980s: stock parts only. I'd go through a set of pads literally every session, and another set 3/4 into the race (seems like the braking got better when it went down to metal-to-metal...but it made a lot of noise).

Lap One Turn One at the Road Atlanta Runoffs smelled like a brake pad factory...

[Superhawk996]

. . (seems like the braking got better when it went down to metal-to-metal...but it made a lot of noise).

Metal to metal is much higher coefficient of friction than pad to metal. Your perception is correct. And pretty stable (not changing friction) much with increasing temperature.

The rotor wear on the other hand (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The main problem though is race pads on the street really suck when pads are cold and first few stops are sketchy.

Ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Freezin 914]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The main problem though is race pads on the street really suck when pads are cold and first few stops are sketchy.

Ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I have done my fair share of racing in my day…most of the time, race parts are just that, for racing, not street driving, even aggressive street driving. Especially suspension and brakes, tempof the brakes is huge! But also race suspension isn’t really designed for street use. Most roads have bumps, potholes, gravel, etc…stiff race suspension won’t keep the tires in contact with the pavement as a bit softer set up.

Either way, I digress, just happy people seen this thread and are at least talking about it.

As for me, keeping it stock in the brake department, but may use a bit better pads for when I feel the need… (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[Jamie]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The main problem though is race pads on the street really suck when pads are cold and first few stops are sketchy.

Ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I have done my fair share of racing in my day…most of the time, race parts are just that, for racing, not street driving, even aggressive street driving. Especially suspension and brakes, tempof the brakes is huge! But also race suspension isn’t really designed for street use. Most roads have bumps, potholes, gravel, etc…stiff race suspension won’t keep the tires in contact with the pavement as a bit softer set up.

Either way, I digress, just happy people seen this thread and are at least talking about it.

As for me, keeping it stock in the brake department, but may use a bit better pads for when I feel the need… (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

OK gang, for those of us street drivers with mostly stock cars, what brand of pads do you recommend for replacement with stock calipers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)