Stripped Conical Set Screw Options

[Literati914]

I know these conical set screws at the shift linkage are supposed to be one-time use items and should be replaced every time .. but I reused a couple that I had on hand when assembling my restoration. So I added a dab of loctite blue to them and snugged them down. I was going to go back and change them out when most of the kinks had been worked out of the car. So, this whole time I've been worried that they'd loosen and drop out while out running the car.

So now's the time, I set out to do this yesterday and the rear one was stubborn but I was able to remove it.. then on to the front one, and an absolute refusal to move! The stupid internal hex stripped (of course), then I tried 4-5 techniques to remove it but none worked, only made things worse - so I guess it's a matter of drilling and trying an ease out now? I actually tried one already without drilling because the hex is so chewed up. It probably was not the optimal size either though. Don't suppose anyone's done it recently and can remember the drill and ease-out size specifics they used?

I hate small internal hex key bolts, they always seem to tend towards stripping - anyone know if a 356 set screw would work?
https://www.stoddard.com/pcg711189a.html

[SirAndy]

So I added a dab of loctite blue to them and snugged them down.

Yeah, that'll do.I used red Loctite on mine when i reused them. Too late now of course.
Blue Loctite is the correct one to use!

Sounds like drilling is your only option at this point.

Is there anything left sticking out that you could weld something onto?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[brant]

That forward knuckle will likely need to be reweld and tapped when you’re done.

Been there

[Rusty]

The previous owner of my car had an interesting solution.

He tapped the holes a size larger. Then took two M8(?) bolts and ground the shaft down into tapered points the same size as the conical screws.

No more hex wrenches with these bolts. Just be careful not to over torque.

[emerygt350]

a little application of heat will loosen that loctite for you. The nice thing is you dont need to drill. Just use the alan hole for the bit on the easy out.

[930cabman]

That forward knuckle will likely need to be reweld and tapped when you’re done.

Been there

It's not a welcome place

[Literati914]

So I added a dab of loctite blue to them and snugged them down.

Yeah, that'll do. I used red Loctite on mine when i reused them. Too late now of course.

Sounds like drilling is your only option at this point.

Is there anything left sticking out that you could weld something onto?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I figured since it was Blue, that I'd be ok.. live and learn. Not enough left to weld to.

[Literati914]

a little application of heat will loosen that loctite for you. The nice thing is you dont need to drill. Just use the alan hole for the bit on the easy out.

I thought about this, but was afraid of catching stuff on fire, the e-brake cable for the passenger side is right there as is the rubber engine compartment seal. Maybe I'd go this route though and just try to be super careful though. Thanks.

[mb911]

Ok folks to clarify 271 red loctite is permanent and requires heat to remove. Blue 242 is medium and should not require heat.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

how about some heat?

I know these conical set screws at the shift linkage are supposed to be one-time use items and should be replaced every time .. but I reused a couple that I had on hand when assembling my restoration. So I added a dab of loctite blue to them and snugged them down. I was going to go back and change them out when most of the kinks had been worked out of the car. So, this whole time I've been worried that they'd loosen and drop out while out running the car.

So now's the time, I set out to do this yesterday and the rear one was stubborn but I was able to remove it.. then on to the front one, and an absolute refusal to move! The stupid internal hex stripped (of course), then I tried 4-5 techniques to remove it but none worked, only made things worse - so I guess it's a matter of drilling and trying an ease out now? I actually tried one already without drilling because the hex is so chewed up. It probably was not the optimal size either though. Don't suppose anyone's done it recently and can remember the drill and ease-out size specifics they used?

I hate small internal hex key bolts, they always seem to tend towards stripping - anyone know if a 356 set screw would work?
https://www.stoddard.com/pcg711189a.html

[bzettner]

Is there a similar sized (a little bigger) TORX that you can tap into the stripped out Allen hex?....just a thought

[SirAndy]

So I added a dab of loctite blue to them and snugged them down.

Yeah, that'll do. I used red Loctite on mine when i reused them. Too late now of course.

I figured since it was Blue, that I'd be ok.. live and learn. Not enough left to weld to.

@Literati914
Looks like i got this backwards. Somehow i remember the red stuff being less strong than the blue but a quick Google search shows i'm wrong.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[GregAmy]

I've re-used those screws many times on both my cars. But I do clean off the threads well and use Blue Loctite Threadlocker Stick, love that stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVW5294

There's really nothing unique about new ones versus old ones, except the new ones come with a tab of Loctite already on them. I do keep a couple extra hanging about and ensure the Allan socket is in good shape, otherwise it gets replaced.

Heat from a blue torch and a bolt extractor should work fine.

[SirAndy]

There's really nothing unique about new ones versus old ones, except the new ones come with a tab of Loctite already on them.

@GregAmy
That might be true for aftermarket screws but the factory screws have a metal tab inside the threads that will deform and lock them in.

That's why they are one-time use only.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[emerygt350]

I used a torch on mine, no problem. You don't need to get it really cooking, just a little heat is fine. And I was able to use an easy out in the stripped Alan so I know it's possible.

[GregAmy]

That might be true for aftermarket screws but the factory screws have a metal tab inside the threads that will deform and lock them in.

Didn't know that! Don't think I've ever seen one of those...

Well, I've had good luck with cleaning/Blue so <knock on wood>...

[Literati914]

Update - I used a torch with no luck .. I stopped short of destroying the delrin bushings in the pivot knuckle (I think). Bolt still would not even move at all while using the extractor bit.

So I gave up and decided to just drill the whole thing out. Stopping a little short, I decided to try the extractor bit again.. this time I guess it was able to fit far enough down into the body of the bolt that the extractor was able to bite better and I got the damn thing to start turning (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) . So it came out without even needing to re-tap (or worse, replace the pivot knuckle). The lesson is that extractor bits sometimes need to be deeper than you think! Thanks everyone for the help!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

PS - I'd still like to know if the 356 equivalent would work:
https://www.stoddard.com/pcg711189a.html

[914Sixer]

Stoddard part is TOO short. Tried VW screw and it is also short. Best one is the early 911 one that is NLA.

[ChrisFoley]

... the factory screws have a metal tab inside the threads that will deform and lock them in.

That's why they are one-time use only.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

No they don't. They have a plug of teflon that sticks out past the threads.

[ChrisFoley]

A small amount of heat will soften blue loctite nicely. Red Loctite requires a bit more heat.
Safe to use a propane torch if you avoid flaming on flammable objects nearby.