A arm installation, final tightening Options

[EJP914]

Putting A arms back on after installing new bushings.

I think ??? the right way to do the final tighten up to spec is to have the full weight of the car
on the suspension.

Would it be sufficient to put a jack under the A Arm and jack it up a bit to simulate the car being on the ground (load up the suspension) and then final tighten up?

Also, where can I find torque specs for the 3 bolts and 1 Allen type screw that hold the A Arm to the car body? Google gives a bunch of sites with varying numbers.

Thanks for the help.

ED

[DennisV]

Putting A arms back on after installing new bushings.

I think ??? the right way to do the final tighten up to spec is to have the full weight of the car
on the suspension.

Would it be sufficient to put a jack under the A Arm and jack it up a bit to simulate the car being on the ground (load up the suspension) and then final tighten up?

Also, where can I find torque specs for the 3 bolts and 1 Allen type screw that hold the A Arm to the car body? Google gives a bunch of sites with varying numbers.

Thanks for the help.

ED

You can find PDF versions of the Factory Workshop manual online. I think what you're looking for is in Group 4 Front Axle.

[Spoke]

Not sure what you mean by final tighten up. All bolts should be secure before putting any stress on the A-arm. The only adjustment should be the ride height but that should be done after a quick trip around the block to settle the suspension. All tires should be at a prescribed pressure and measure the height of the fender on both sides and note the rake of the car from front to rear. Lift the car and adjust the height screw as needed. Retest.

For the most part you will need a front end alignment because raising or lowering the front end will change the toe setting.

[fiacra]

Not sure what you mean by final tighten up. All bolts should be secure before putting any stress on the A-arm. The only adjustment should be the ride height but that should be done after a quick trip around the block to settle the suspension. All tires should be at a prescribed pressure and measure the height of the fender on both sides and note the rake of the car from front to rear. Lift the car and adjust the height screw as needed. Retest.

For the most part you will need a front end alignment because raising or lowering the front end will change the toe setting.

Haven't done the A arm bushings on any of my 914s, but on every other car that I've replaced suspension bushings on the protocol is to lightly snug fasteners down then load them before torquing to spec. This is to prevent premature tearing, wear, etc. They need to be in their neutral position as a starting point so they can move within the range they are designed to move as you drive the car. If you fully tighten them down before you load the suspension then as soon as you put weight on them they are already twisted and will not be starting in a neutral position. That will lead to premature failure. You can load the suspension any way you want, including using a jack. Ideally the wheels would be on the ground and the full weight of the car on the suspension, but that's pretty hard to accomplish unless you have the right kind of lift. Can't see why this wouldn't also apply to 914s, but somebody can set me straight if I'm off base on this. It's certainly the way I did it when I replaced the rear trailing arm bushings.