Engine Install Tips, 914-6 Order of Operations Options

[DennisV]

If things go well next week, I might be able to take a run at installing the engine in our 914-6.

What should I do to prep for the marriage and / or a sequence of events should I follow to be most efficient? I’ve reviewed the Removing and Installing Engine section in the factory workshop manual. Any advice in addition, or contrary, to those steps?

CURRENTLY
* Engine is on a test stand
* Transmission is on the floor
* Chassis is on its wheels on a 4 post lift
* Drive shafts are attached to the stub axle on the car
* Wiring harness is on engine
* Engine bay is pretty bare. No oil hoses, fuel hoses, fuel pump, engine wiring harness.


ASSUMPTIONS
Before Engine In Car
* Mate transmission to engine
* Remove air cleaner
* Oil hoses routed in engine bay
* Fuel lines installed
* Fuel hoses routed in engine bay
* Fuel pump mounted
* Heat exchangers on engine (ideally, but…)
* Engine bay rubber seals

After Engine In Car
* Drive shafts attached
* Shift rod
* Muffler
* Hot air ducts, flaps
* Air cleaner

QUESTIONS
* Will the ramps or cross-beams of the lift cause clearance or height issues? Below is a shot of the lift.
* Will it be a problem to install the heat exchangers after the engine is in the car? They won’t clear to supports on the test stand.
* Should I install the oil and fuel hoses in the engine bay first?
* If I use the parts catalog listed length on hoses, will I be OK? Or will I wish I hadn't cut the hoses to length until the engine is in?

Thank you.

[VaccaRabite]

Since your car is on a lift, put the engine and transmission on a motorcycle/transmission jack and lower the car on to the engine, using the transmission jack to do minute movements. The cross bar may interfere at the back of the 4 post lift. Or it may not. Hard to say given that photo.

Zach

[DennisV]

Since your car is on a lift, put the engine and transmission on a motorcycle/transmission jack and lower the car on to the engine, using the transmission jack to do minute movements. The cross bar may interfere at the back of the 4 post lift.

Hi Zach,

I have the Wilding Engineering 911 engine cradle adapter for a floor jack. Do floor jacks not normally raise high enough? Thus the need for a transmission jack?

I have some room to roll the car forward on the ramps, if the rear cross bar is the main concern. I wasn't sure about the minimum clearance needed between the ramps. I will also be limited to how much I can lower the lift, based on the floor jack. Maybe that's a non issue if the floor jack can lift high enough.

[mlindner]

What six are you installing, or better yet what are you using for lower valve covers. If turbo fined style you will want to have them shaved so removal is possible for valve adjusting. Best, Mark

[DennisV]

What six are you installing, or better yet what are you using for lower valve covers. If turbo fined style you will want to have them shaved so removal is possible for valve adjusting.

I'm installing a factory 914-6 engine. I kept the original lower valve covers and sent them with the engine to the machine shop to make sure they were flat. I didn't use the turbo-style on the bottom, but thanks for the reminder on that.

[Tom1394racing]

I did the recently and waited to install the CV/Axle assemblies after the engine was installed. Pretty tricky with the rear suspension and heat exchangers installed.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=372298&hl=

You might consider installing the CV/axles to the rear hubs before the engine goes in.

[DennisV]

I did the recently and waited to install the CV/Axle assemblies after the engine was installed. Pretty tricky with the rear suspension and heat exchangers installed.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=372298&hl=

You might consider installing the CV/axles to the rear hubs before the engine goes in.

Good thread. Thanks for sharing.

CV/axles are already attached to rear hubs. Rear suspension is in. Heat exchangers are currently in a box.

[brant]

Did you drop the engine using the same lift?

I’ve seen (used) a 4 post lift that didn’t have enough clearance between the ramps once

[DennisV]

Did you drop the engine using the same lift?

I’ve seen (used) a 4 post lift that didn’t have enough clearance between the ramps once

The engine and transmission were already out of the car when I got it. So the factory manual guidance to "reverse the removal steps" for install doesn't help me much. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[SKL1]

Looking at your lift, which is very similiar to mine, I think the clearance between the ramps will be very close or too narrow to "easily" mate the engine/transaxle to the car. I know for sure you can't with a 4 cylinder because of the cross bar mount.

That's why I wish I'd gotten a 2 post lift... but that's a story for another day.

[rgalla9146]

Denis can you move the car rearward so the crossbar on the lift is just below
the rear edge of the floorpan ? ... you'll gain an easier lift into the car.
To be extra cautious attach a strap from the front suspension to the lift.
Install the oil cooler hose to the cooler before installing engine.
You'll have to tilt the right side of the engine upward to get the side tin past the
rear inner trailing arm nuts. This is to avoid bending the tin and scratching the
paint.
Buy or borrow a 16" drift pin to guide the front engine mount toward the front
chassis mount.
Remove the halfshafts with stub axle attached. Install afterward into lowered
trailing arms (detach at big lower coilover bolt) Use the drift pin to guide the stub
axles back into the hubs. Don't roll the car without stub axles tightened in place.
Tie, tape or strap all hoses wires and cables away from the engine opening.
A lift table is very helpful.
A floor jack is a challenge because the bigger mass a distance from where you are
controling it.