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| Literati914 |
Aug 1 2026, 02:16 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,360 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Would you say that generally speaking, a rear caliper would definitely need a rebuild if the outside adjuster (for setting e-brake clearance) does not move? - but that if it can be adjusted, it would not necessarily need to be split for piston removal and complete rebuild?
I have completely rebuilt them before and could do so again, but not sure it’s always a necessity and I have several to choose from (some adjust, some don’t). Any specific tests? |
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| mepstein |
Aug 1 2026, 04:00 PM
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#2
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914-6 GT in waiting ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,847 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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I believe Eric Shea has talked about spinning it with a drill to get it to engage. Maybe there is a thread or video on his site. If you can get the adjuster to engage and you mention a prior rebuild, I would think you would be good.
Granted, they are your brakes so please don’t rely on me to make important decisions. |
| Ninja |
Aug 1 2026, 04:55 PM
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 25-September 25 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 29,004 Region Association: Southwest Region |
It's the age of the rubber that is the tipping point for me.
The square cut seals lose their pullback ability at 15-20 years. They get hard and no longer retract the piston a few ten thousands like when new. Causes "dragging" brakes, faster wear, overheated parts... Now, if I had rebuilt them 5 years ago and the adjuster didn't work, I'd try Eric's method first. Anything with unknown seal age would be an automatic rebuild in my book. |
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