Taking off heat exchangers on a six, where to get the long hex tools? Options

[olav]

I need to take off my heat exchangers to get to my valve covers to change the gasket because it seems to be leaking.

Where does one get the long Allen head tool that fits into the heat exchanger canals to remove the exhaust bolt nuts?

Also, are they 10mm or what?

Thanks.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)

[GeorgeRud]

I seem to remember they are 8mm allen heads. You can get the tool at perfomance products, or probably any of the vendors.

[Rusty]

I can't remember if it's 8 or 10... but I think it's 8mm.

I cut a piece of hex-key wrench, put it into a 1/4 inch drive socket, and that fit up there fine. I didn't want to wait for an overpriced specialty tool.

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[ArtechnikA]

they are 8mm. i have the overpriced specialty tool, only partly because i think it will transmit the vibration better when it is used with an impact wrench set low.

before you begin, you should ask yourself if you are *sure* you need to remove the HE's just to get at the VC gasket, because you shouldn't *have to*. (it's easier, but it is borderline possible to do a valve adjustment with the HE's in place, and you're not even doing that, just replacing the gasket.

VC leaks are often caused by overtightening and subsequent warping of the cover. you can use the 'Turbo' lower covers, but you will have to remove (mill, file, sand...) some off the top of the ribs or you won't be able to get them in over the studs.

if you're determined to procede, be aware that you should replace the exhaust port gaskets, probably some of the nuts, and there's a real good chance you'll break or strip one or more of the port studs in the process and have to deal with that.

[Rusty]

Rich is right... don't do it unless you have to. You'll be very unhappy if you snap off an exhaust stud. I know you've been around 914s a while... so don't take what I'm saying as preachy.

The first time I pulled my heat exchangers on the 914/6, several of the studs backed out. I was fortunate that none of the studs brought aluminum out. As a big believer in *new* hardware, I just decided to replace them with new studs.

Before removing any exhaust port hardware of unknown (but obviously old) age, I would soak with PB Blaster DAILY for a week or two. Then, say some prayers, sacrifce a chicken, do the ancient German tribal rust-dance around the car... and maybe you'll have good luck. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/pray.gif)

It's a good time to spend cleaning stuff up with a scrubbie and some Simple Green. Reassemble with all new hardware, and a liberal application of copper antisieze.

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[olav]

Thanks for all the great advice and I agree I wouldn't remove them unless I had too.

I'm gonna take off the HEs because I also seem to have a bit of an exhaust leak too. I am going to replace all the gaskets: exhaust manifold and HE/muffler gasgets and hardware namely the exhaust manifold bolts, around the area while I'm in there just to freshen everything up.

I've had the HE's off less than two years max (borrowed tool) and don't drive the car a whole bunch never in rain plus I keep it well oiled down there (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) and the car is always garaged so I'm not anticipating any exhaust manifold bolt problems (famous last words).

I have all the lower covers ground down, don't think they are "turbo" since I have a 3.2 in there right now. I have the "turbo" covers on my original 2.2l motor though.

Might get some extra studs just in case for good karma.

We have wild turkeys milling about out property so I could bag one of those for sacrifice if I really have too.

[JWest]

You can get the 8mm - 6 inch long hex drive from McMaster-Carr for $9.62.

Type in part number 8367A75 or see page 2608 of the online catalog.

[olav]

Awesome, thanks James.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

[michel richard]

I believe 5/16th is also very close to 8mm, close enough anyway, and may be easier to source. That's what I have.

[olav]

QUOTE (michel richard @ Sep 11 2005, 12:05 PM)

I believe 5/16th is also very close to 8mm, close enough anyway, and may be easier to source. That's what I have.

That's a great idea.

I had to make a 10mm allen key socket to take change out my starter. I cut an imperial allen key that was practically the same as 10mm and stuck it into a 10mm socket and that worked like a charm.

Suppose I could do the same with 8mm and 5/16th combo. Just hack apart a long allen key.

[Jeroen]

Water is not what makes exhaust bolts/nuts rust... it's the heat

Ya sure you wanna mess with a "close" sized allen wrench?
If you strip the allen bolt, you'll hate yourself for a long long time (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Pray you don't break any studs

[Rusty]

QUOTE (Jeroen @ Sep 11 2005, 05:17 PM)

Water is not what makes exhaust bolts/nuts rust... it's the heat

Huh? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)

I think it might be a combination of both... because if water doesn't cause rust, I'm gonna add a deep-water fording kit to my 914. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/monkeydance.gif)

[Brando]

Oxygen makes things rust. That is the definition of "to rust" - Oxidation. Rust = Iron Oxide. FeO² (i think?)

Water doesn't entirely make things rust -- it's the oxygen in the water.

[Rusty]

Yes, I knew one of us geeks would pop out with that as soon as I hit "add reply"... but I was too lazy to go back and edit.

My point... repeated heat cycling alone doesn't cause rust.

But we're moving into the area of tetrapyloctomy. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[olav]

I think it's Fe2O3

Here's something I found on the web so it must be true:


"First of all, lets just define rust. Rust occurs when iron combines with oxygen to form iron oxide. There are different types of iron oxide but rust forms only when there is plenty of oxygen available and is characterised by that red-brown colour.

Now iron will not react with the oxygen in the air. Do you remember when you were in kindergarten? Your teacher probably asked you to hold hands with another child when you went outside. Well in air an oxygen travels around in partnership with another oxygen. In this combined state the oxygen in the air does not react with iron.

When the oxygen in the air dissolves in water (this oxygen is what allows fish and other aquatic life to breathe), each oxygen separates from its partner and goes round on its own. Iron can combine with oxygen in this singular state and does so.


Here's an interesting experiment to try out:

Iron does not react with water; it reacts with the oxygen contained in the water. You can prove this with a simple experiment:

1) Place an iron nail in a test tube with water

2) Place an iron nail in a test tube with recently boiled water (boiling removes the free oxygen in the water)and seal it with a rubber bung to prevent any oxygen getting in.

3)Place an iron in a test tube with oil (oxygen cannot dissolve in oil)

4)Place an iron nail in a test tube with a small amount of calcium chloride to keep the air dry and seal the test tube to prevent continued moisture entering.

Only no. 1 will show rusting."