static set, timing Options

[toon1]

I set the timing staticly by using the timing mark on the fan(it's red on mine) not the zero. alighned it with the notch in the fan housing and then turned the dist to alighn the rotor with the mark on the top of the dist. case.

Will this get me close?

[alpha434]

Yeah. Gets you really close.

Next comes the easy part. Start the car, work the gas with one foot, while you reach around and loosen the distributer so that you can freely turn it. Let the gas drop to idle and twist the distributer until it sounds really good.

In my opinion, this is better than a timing light, sinces it sets it right to your engine and not right to the engineer's specs- which don't account for data variations from one unit to the next.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ninja.gif)

If this is the ninja- then the other one MUST be a terrorist!!!

[Mueller]

QUOTE (alpha434 @ Jan 12 2006, 02:30 PM)

In my opinion, this is better than a timing light, sinces it sets it right to your engine and not right to the engineer's specs- which don't account for data variations from one unit to the next.

by doing the "ear" method, you also have a good chance of launching the motor due to the possibility of the timing being too advanced at higher rpms.....

[tat2dphreak]

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jan 12 2006, 04:39 PM)

QUOTE (alpha434 @ Jan 12 2006, 02:30 PM) In my opinion, this is better than a timing light, sinces it sets it right to your engine and not right to the engineer's specs- which don't account for data variations from one unit to the next. by doing the "ear" method, you also have a good chance of launching the motor due to the possibility of the timing being too advanced at higher rpms.....

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) esp. with carbs, when the engine gets warm, the revs will go higher and higher... mine sounds rough when at a cold idle, but warm idle is nice, around 900-1000, the ear method alone can F you if you are not careful...

[r_towle]

static timing...

Get a test light.
Connect the test light to the negative side of the coil.
Get the dizzy rotor close to the mark.

Get the TDC mark, the notch in the fan pulley, not the painted mark, to line up with the V groove in the fan housing, on the rear of the fan closest to the rear of the car...use a mirror.

Rotate dizzy till the light goes on.

tighten down dizzy.

that is now statically timed.

Then, start it and put a dwell meter on it FIRST.
After you have readjusted your points so that the dwell is perfect, then set the timing with a timing light.

DJet and Ljet have different procedures.
These engines and FI systems are very picky about dwell and timing..along with valve timing/adjustment.

You will realise the more that you do this...the engine runs smoother and gives you that extra little bit of HP when you take the time and get it perfect.

I do mine twice per year, new point etc...

I have found that it is like night and day between an old set of points, and a new set that is set up PERFECT.

Given that, its is not that hard to get it perfect, just calm down and dont rush it, it has to be perfect, nothing else will do.

It will run, it will drive, all will work, but you will loose out on having your car run the best that it can...

Take the time, do it right.

Rich

[Jake Raby]

Set your timing at full advance above 3,500 RPM!

Static timing does not do any good unless your engine never comes into the advance curve, meaning you idle all the time.

Two degrees of timing is goof for 50 degrees of head temp and/or 10HP in some cases. Set timing at full advance, or shitty MPG, and a melt down will occur imminently!

[toon1]

the motor is out of the car right now and I wanted to get it close for when it goes back in. Then I will do a real timing set

[r_towle]

So static tming gets you close enough to run.

Then you will do the dwell, and then the timing.

Again, each motor needs to be timed differently..

If you have DJet, you will need to time it at 3500 rpm's
If you have LJet, the timing marks on the fan will only allow you to time it at 900 rpms (If I remember correctly)

But, it is super critical...

Sounds like you have it all set for now...

Put it back in and finish up once you have power and have the motor running...

Rich

[toon1]

when timing the motor at 35k, it is somewhat unerving to you guy's to have that motor winding up like that while you are trying to time it?

[r_towle]

no, just make sure all the wires for the timing light are safe and not gonna get near the fan...

Then from the passenger side, you can lay on the car a bit, hold the engine revs at 3500, and use the timing light to see the mark...

It is not easy...but we all do it...

Rich

[Aaron Cox]

QUOTE (toon1 @ Jan 12 2006, 08:04 PM)

when timing the motor at 35k, it is somewhat unerving to you guy's to have that motor winding up like that while you are trying to time it?

when being a contortionist while setting timing.... keep fingers clear of spinning fan blades.....

[alpha434]

oh yeah. do ear timing when the engine's warm only. And make sure it runs good through the whole rpm range. Checking the dwell is easy enough too.

Anyone ever used a matchbook?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/alfred.gif)

[chas]

If your useing a Pertronics unit do you still have to set the dwell.

[Aaron Cox]

QUOTE (chas @ Jan 12 2006, 08:39 PM)

If your useing a Pertronics unit do you still have to set the dwell.

no

[Dave_Darling]

Matchbook? Well, the cover can be used as an emergency point-gap gauge...

Just a note to the original poster--the red mark is probably the regular (dynamic) timing mark. You'll find the engine quite hard to start with that timing, and the idle will be fairly high. (At least, if you've got a 1.7 or 2.0 flywheel with the 27 deg BTDC timing mark.)

Since the motor is out, double-check the TDC mark on the fan with the one on the flywheel. Trust the flywheel over the fan, BTW. And it's not a bad idea to put paint marks on the front part of the fan so you can read them more easily when trying to set the timing the "right" way, with the engine in the car.

And I personally like to also put a paint mark on the fan and flywheel at 180 degrees out from the TDC mark.

--DD

[toon1]

there is a O n the fan, and there is a hash mark on the fan. The hash mark is not the timing mark?

[Rand]

QUOTE (toon1 @ Jan 12 2006, 07:04 PM)

when timing the motor at 35k, it is somewhat unerving to you guy's to have that motor winding up like that while you are trying to time it?

Hell yeah it would be unnerving to have a motor winding at 35k!!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

But 3500 isn't so bad.

Sorry, I know what you meant, but couldn't resist the smart-ass remark. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[toon1]

just cought my mistke, it would be great to have a motor that would spin 35k. Maybe Jake could build one! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/burnout.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

QUOTE (toon1 @ Jan 12 2006, 08:09 PM)

there is a O n the fan, and there is a hash mark on the fan. The hash mark is not the timing mark?

The 0 is TDC, which is "about" what the static timing should be. The hash mark is the timing mark for when the engine is running. Remember, the timing changes depending on engine RPM--so the 1.7 or 2.0, which needs to be timed at 3500 RPM, has a timing mark that is very different than the timing would be at 0 RPM.

Use TDC as your timing mark if you time the engine statically. That should get it close enough to run, then you can set the timing to spec using the timing mark at the correct RPM. (With the vacuum hose/s disconnected from the distributor dashpot and, on a 1.8, plugged.)

--DD

[toon1]

thanks Dave I will move it back to the TDC 0 on the fan.