oil filter or oil cooler mod, help with what is right way to go Options

[dougcoup]

OK Guys, I am well underway on my 2.8L conversion.
I have not plumbed the car yet but did build a 911 race car before and did not mod the stock oil cooler.

I see on clewett engineering that there is a mod to the stock cooler for 914/6, and also see on smartracing that there is a subsitution plate fixture that allows you to mount an oil filter right there and simply and in /out for my front oil cooler.

Any suggestions on which works best.

Filter right at the engine sounds better than filtering any contaiminates through my oil lines, drysump, accusump oil accumulator and front cooler, but is pricey.

$145 for stock cooler mod, plus I would need remote oil filter +$100
$240 for block off plate w/filter

[ArtechnikA]

they're completely separate things.

"all" factory race cars used the on-engine filter because they all ran with large front-mounted oil coolers -- in the scavenge circuit. so the additional filtration in the pressure circuit was A Good Thing.

at some point - 3,6? - Porsche did the same thing with street cars - two filters, no on-engine cooler. this - or something real similar to the early racing part - is what SmartRacing is selling. it *could* also result in cooler heads and cylinders (i donno - could...) since you're not blowing air through the cooler but instead have a blockoff...

the 'bad' news is that cooling the pressure-circuit oil is a *lot* more effective than cooling the scavenge oil since there's a lot of entrained air in the scavenge oil.

the pressure-side filter does not replace the scavenge (oil tank) filter - it is a supplemental "final filter" before the bearings. the scavange filter keeps trash out of the tank and yes, it's a good idea to run a screen pn the scavenge line before it heads off to the thermostat and front cooler...

if it's just a track car, and you're already committed to a big front cooler, the on-engine filter is a nice idea. the factory thought so 40 years ago.

if you use the on-engine cooler, you'll need to use a stocker or mod a 911 cooler because otherwise the line routing won't clear the trailing arm.

i don't see how you'd need a remote filter (beyond what's on the tank...) with a modded 911 cooler.

i also don't quite understand why (or where) you're running an Accusump in a dry sump car -- pressure-side, i'd presume - but pressure shouldn't be a problem with a decent oil tank implementation... (but it's your car, do what you want...)

[IronHillRestorations]

If time permits I'll be modifying an oil cooler today. If I can I'll take some pics as I go.

Hey Doug, you live in the same town as one of my favorite golf courses (Pine Meadow)!

[Luke M]

I got my cooler mod. done for $60.

[Luke M]

One more.

[blabla914]

ditto what Rich said.

You might also want to go to the Smart Racing Products website. Read what they have to say about oil line size and the use of an inner support coil on the suction side of the pressure pump. Basically their recommendation is -16 with a support coil 3.2L case/pump and smaller. 3.6L case/pump -20 with support coil. Also never heard of an accusump being used with a drysump.

That's quite a bit of welding to convert that oil cooler. I don't want to dis your setup, but wouldn't it have been easier to just weld on a straight male AN and then use a 45 deg AN fitting off of the oil cooler? That's what I did on my car.

Kelly