Soldering two wires together..., Is there a better way? Options

[neo914-6]

The twist method is here

Another is soldering them overlapped.

I always get a few strands sticking out and piercing the heat shrink tubing...maybe it's takes better technique but is there a mechanical lug that can hold the two ends togehter that can be soldered? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)

I don't particularly like the FLAPS plastic covered connectors but I'm told I may not be compressing them correctly. Besides in a confined area with alot of wires, the connectors take up alot of room...

What are you doing succesfully?

[r_towle]

I have become really fond of the crimp style connectors WITHOUT the plastic covering...

They are very small, and easy to deal with...plus, you can solder it up afterwards if you want...

I have heard that solder connections in areas with high vibration are not the best choice...so the crimp style with solder seems to be the best of both worlds...

And, If done right, once the heat shrink tubing is put on, you cant even tell there is a connector there...

If found them at the hardware store...but I had never seen them before that...

You may have to hunt around for them...
Its basically the same company, and the same thing as the plastic covered crimp conectors, just without the plastic...

Rich

[redshift]

With heavier gauge wire, I prefer using a small torch, or a butane iron.

Preen the wire, so there is about 3/4 inch clean, treat with a quality flux, push them into each other (interlocking.. kind of) clamp, and solder.

It just takes practice.



M

[wertygrog]

A solder joint with the wires overlapping a smidge is the best, IMO. Crimped connectors work well, but only if you have the right crimping tool and you use it right. In other words, you have to collapse the crimp piece inwards, not just crush it flat.

brent

[gklinger]

QUOTE

I have become really fond of the crimp style connectors WITHOUT the plastic covering...

QUOTE

Crimped connectors work well, but only if you have the right crimping tool and you use it right. In other words, you have to collapse the crimp piece inwards, not just crush it flat.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) I used these extensively on my Megasquirt harness build, WITH a proper crimper and heat shrink. Have no doubt they'll last...

[Porcharu]

QUOTE (r_towle @ Feb 13 2006, 10:03 AM)

I have become really fond of the crimp style connectors WITHOUT the plastic covering... They are very small, and easy to deal with...plus, you can solder it up afterwards if you want... I have heard that solder connections in areas with high vibration are not the best choice...so the crimp style with solder seems to be the best of both worlds... And, If done right, once the heat shrink tubing is put on, you cant even tell there is a connector there... If found them at the hardware store...but I had never seen them before that... You may have to hunt around for them... Its basically the same company, and the same thing as the plastic covered crimp conectors, just without the plastic... Rich

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

Something else that works well is to tin both ends of the wires bend them into J hooks hook them together give them a squeeze with pliers to lock them together then solder. Then cut them back apart install the shrink tubing and repeat (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

[TonyAKAVW]

I usually tin each wire end individually and then overlap them and heat. Adding just a tiny bit of solder makes for a really nice connection. That will keep you from having wires sticking out. Flux is good, but just use a tiny amount. It will wick its way into the wire beneath the insulation, and allow the tinning to go under as well. This can (if not accounted for) make for a potentially brittle solder joint. To account for it, use longer strain relief and tie down the wires.

-Tony

[jasons]

I use the twist method. When you get the strands sticking out that pierce the heat shrink, use some nippers to clean them up.

Also, if I am using crimp connectors, I solder them. I usually don't crimp them if they need to last more than a day. If they have the plastic insulator, I pull it off and discard it and use heat shrink. It looks cleaner and the heat shrink add some strain relief to the solder joint.

Another tip:
If you do a bunch of wires, like you cut a harness and are reassembling it, stagger the twist joints for each wire splice. This way, you won't get a big lump in one spot of the harness. So if you are cutting a harness and you plan to reassemble it, cut it in a stagger. Don't just lop all the wires at one spot.

[sgomes]

my suggestion:

[zymurgist]

QUOTE (Porcharu @ Feb 13 2006, 01:30 PM)

Something else that works well is to tin both ends of the wires bend them into J hooks hook them together give them a squeeze with pliers to lock them together then solder. Then cut them back apart install the shrink tubing and repeat (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

LOL! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

BTDT. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

QUOTE (sgomes @ Feb 13 2006, 01:10 PM)

my suggestion:

The only thing worse than butt connectors (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1139857840.jpg) that I cannot verify the crimp is scotchlocks. If I find them on your car, you will hear all sorts of nasty comments about the DACO!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Proper metal crimps (or soldering) and heat shrink make for a far more reliable electrical connection.




I could add some offensive comment about butt connectors and brokeback mountain, but I will let your imagination do it for me. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)