Another starting problem, This one is different from the rest, I promise. Options

[Matt Meyer]

You guys seem to know everything but I haven’t seen this one yet.

To make a long story short. The problem is almost certainly with the lock cylinder part of ignition. I can start the car by turning the electrical portion of the ignition switch with a screwdriver (steering column torn apart). But with the key (lock cylinder and electrical switch put back together) no start. Assembled, the ignition will turn to on (dash lights up, fuel pump primes) and turns another approx. ?¼? turn, makes a click (relay, not starter solenoid or relay) but no start. I’m not sure if the key needs to turn just a little farther (it feels like it is turning all the way) or if the lock cylinder is too sloppy to turn the switch that last little bit.

While trying to figure out a fix last night I thought I observed that the bottom of the ignition switch keyway is spring loaded. It seemed that if the bottom of the keyway was not pushed in the switch would not turn the last 1/8th (no start?). Can someone confirm this? The key when inserted into the ignition does push the lock cylinder key down a small bit. Could my worn non original key just be a tad too short with wear? Maybe the lock cylinder just needs to be in another 1/8” but I don’t see how.

More trouble shooting tonight but any help would be appreciated.

Also, my 914 is a 75 and I don't think the Pelican tech artical is going to help me get the lock cylinder out.

[notyers]

I am in the same boat as you.I have just about had it.Same thing.I am using screw driver.Have two cylinders and nether work when all back together. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[ejm]

Have you tried it with a new electrical part? The starter contact inside could be worn such that you can turn it far enough with a screwdriver but the "good" part is just beyond how far the lock cylinder can turn.

[jk76.914]

I had the same problem. It was the switch. One of the cheapest jobs on the car.

After almost 4 years, I finally got the interior back in, and the ONLY thing I wasn't going to rebuild on the car was the steering column. And then it happenned to me what happenned to you. So now I have a rebuilt steering column. It wasn't that bad a job- a couple of evenings. Mine's a '76.

[tod914]

Replace the steering column bushing while your in there... dont use the place ones.

[Matt Meyer]

I have a brand new (electrical) switch. Both the old and new electrical switch work with a screw driver. Neither work with the lock cylinder.

My 914 is a 75 and I do not see how the cylinder comes out. I messed with it last night but you can not see what is going on inside where the cylinder and switch mate so all I could do is put them togather and hope I got a different outcome. Unless someone can tell me how I might be putting them togather wrong.

Another note. I did this last winter also. But when I tested the switch it looked good. So I put it all back togather and it worked for 6 months.

I think I am going to try to buy that whole collar from a 75 or 76 that is being parted. If I can not find that for a reasonable price, a starter button from JEGs or Summit is only $10. I'll either make a "pig tail" to run a splice from or two new wires to the starter so I don't have to hack up the wiring harness.

And thanks, now would be the time to replace the steering column bushing.

[Dr Evil]

I know that some years are different, but to extract the cylinder on my 73 you remove the littel cover by it, put you key in, turn, pull it out. Unplug it first.

I can't verrify that this will work on a 75, though. You may have a year that is a bigger PITA.

It does sound like the part of your cylinder that actuates your switch may be worn.

[jk76.914]

I have a '76, and it had the same symptom. I ended up removing the collar around the steering column to get the switch and lock cylinder out.

I think it came off as follows- Once the steering wheel is off, you can remove the turnsignal and washer switch. I believe there are 4 long screws holding them down. They then pull towards you and out. They unplug from the harness at the base of the column as you pull.

Then, there's this one bolt- it is accessible from below the column, down near the dash. The casting that you're trying to remove is cut on one side, kind of like a battery cable clamp (bad example, but the best I can come up with) and this bolt closes that cut to clamp the casting around the column, just like the bolt on the battery cable clamp. Once this bolt is removed, you can rock the casting to loosen it, or insert a big flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot to open it up a bit- being careful so you don't break the casting.

Then is should slide right off. Unless I've forgotten something. If it doesn't slide right off, look around for another fastener, but I can't think of one..... Is there a snap ring on the steering shaft?

While I had mine off, I replaced the upper plastic bushing with a steel one I got at Performance Products. I had to modify the new one to get it to fit, so I probably put it in wrong, but it works fine. Also, I went ahead and separated the upper U-joint, pulled the column, and cleaned and repacked the ball bearings. I also installed an electric switch in the wiper/washer switch for an electric washer pump....

When it goes back together, you should hold off on tightening that one clamping bolt until everything is lined up, and the gap between the shell and the steering wheel looks right, and the cancelling cam is working.

I think it took maybe two evenings, and I was feeling my way as I went. None of my manuals showed this version.

Good luck. I wish I had some pictures.

Jim

[Matt Meyer]

Thanks, I got that far. And have replaced the electrical switch. But it still will not start with the key.

I have not figured out how to get the lock cylinder apart from the steering wheel lock. Last night I tried to remove the wheel lock. A couple taps with a drift (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) and it slid right out. The lock cylinder is still firmly attached and I snapped off the fixed key located at the bottom of the lock cylinder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) .

I think I have a new assembly; lock cylinder, wheel lock, etc. on the way.

Until I have two lock cylinders side by side I won't know if the previous one was not turning all the way.

When I get another I will include pictures.