Back Surgery - car has "the Sag", Best way to straighten and re-support Options

[tracks914]

I know it can be done and I'll find a way to do it, I'm stuborn that way.
Before I start though, I'd like to see who else has done it, what they ran into, how did they jack it straight, how did they re-support it.
It will be a combination factory assembly line "donut" mount and rotisserie job but I know the car is worth saving. (I think they all are)
BTW if I measure my good car from the windshield furthest back point "metal not rubber" to the targa hoop furthest forward point "metal" on the outside corners, I get 25". The same measurements on the broken car is 24 5/8". This explains the 1/4" height difference between the body and the top of the door.
What do your cars measure?
Tx

[cantley914]

Doug

Here`s a helpfull link

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/Parts/Body...me_dims_big.htm

Dimension you`re looking for is " f " and is 25 1/8"
I measured my orange one and it is was I get.

BTW the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) green colour on my car is only an etch primer to protect the metal. It will return signal orange like when it left the factory

Hope this helps

Steph

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[tracks914]

Doug



BTW the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) green colour on my car is only an etch primer to protect the metal. It will return signal orange like when it left the factory



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif)

I think the green they are talking about is the greenish grey on my car. The primer on your car looks good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[cantley914]

Doug,

I forgot to mention, to redo the longs, I had the car on the rotisserie, set the proper measurements for the body, built a wooden frame that I installed snug under the floor pans as close as practical to the longs, (leaving enough space to spot weld), and did the required work and left them until completed.
It worked very well as nothing moved and the measurements didn`t change

Good luck with my ex .... car !!!

Steph

[GWN7]

I was going to say where and how you support the car depends on what it needs.

Wood frame as described above. Door bar adjustable spacer bars (racer Chris?). Leveling jacks (the kind that you use on a RV/camper) to support the ends of the car (you can screw up or down the post to make fine adjustments to the door gaps)

[Mark Henry]

No matter how straight you get it with the 'math' in the end you need to line it up with the doors, etc. to get the perfect gaps.

I'm not saying the 'math' isn't important... it's just Mike, Wayne, Aaron and I have tried jigs and measurements etc., etc... to do a perfect job and always end up lining up all the gaps and welding it up.

[Dave_Darling]

For pictures of the "best" way to do this job, look for the posts about straightening Sir Andy's car at Yeaman over the past few weeks.

Of course, you have to find a Celette bench and rent the fixtures...

--DD

[freezing14]

Hi there,, when i did mine,, I wanted to have the adjutable kind,, so I went to a scap ward and bought 2 scissor jack, welded a tube on it , then cut it to fit between the dash and the top of the targa bar on each side , crank her up until you have the right distance ( with the tape or a door ) as it will not be in the way, you now have full support and you can start cutting without fear of folding, then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[Joe Ricard]

The measurement you need is between the door jambs. there are easily identified features to put the tape against.
Top of windshield is NOT a good idea. they are fairly flexible.
Brace the body then weld heating and cooling does some funky things to a chasis.

I am Cheap and found some 16 ga. plate and replaced/ doubled over existing metal seam weld and spot weld points through out the field of the panel. ala GT stiffening kit except on the outer longitudinal.

[davep]

Somewhere I have a set of adjustable frames to fit the door openning. Bolts in to the hinge mounts and the latch mount. Then you adjust the size to get the correct measurements. I think though that a homemade Celette bench would be a good investment. Something to SUPPORT the car on key points while work is being done. You still have to be careful with the welding though so that things don't warp.

[Mark Henry]

For pictures of the "best" way to do this job, look for the posts about straightening Sir Andy's car at Yeaman over the past few weeks.

Of course, you have to find a Celette bench and rent the fixtures...

--DD

Yep...it may be the best way, but I bet the closest Celette bench to Doug would be in Toronto or Montreal. What's that Doug? A couple hundred+ miles?
Plus I bet there are no 914 fixtures in Canada....shipping, brokerage, distance, taxes, time, etc,. etc. We're into cubic $$$$$

I bet it would cost way more for one car, than it cost Andy for two.

You can brace it all you want, but without continously checking the gaps you'll be in for a rude awakening when you bolt things back up. Often the body springs open once you remove the braces, screwing up all your gaps.

[tracks914]

I don't know what a Celette bench is but I do have access to a rotisserie and this. It holds the car on the donuts in the center of the car so there is no upward pressure on the ends. The problem is I don't have any donuts...yet...still looking for a set. Anyone??Anyone??

[tracks914]

Just an observation, most of the replies to this post are from Canada or the Northern US. Maybe we need a "salt truck smilie" to add to this post. At least I feel I am in good company with enough experience to lean on during this next resto.

[GWN7]

Just an observation, most of the replies to this post are from Canada or the Northern US. Maybe we need a "salt truck smilie" to add to this post. At least I feel I am in good company with enough experience to lean on during this next resto.

hahahahahaha (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)