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> Sorry but need Help with Valve covers
Kerrys914
post Oct 10 2003, 06:44 AM
Post #1


Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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I have taken my dam valve cover off 3 times to fix this leak, with no luck.

I had a what I thought was rocker tap so I took off my 0% leaking valve cover to inspect things. Everything was fine so I reinstalled the cover and went about my other duties......the next thing I know......Smoke every where and oil sizzle'n on the heat exchanger.

I think it is coming from the top/rear part of the cover. I can see signs of oil on the rear side of the head near the cover.

During the last install (number 3) I cleaned both surfaces very well and used permatex on the cover to hold the gasket on. I waited about 30-45 mins and installed the cover onto the head. Nothing betweeen the gasket and the head (this seemed to be what most were/are doing).

In less then 5 mins drip drip drip SMOKE... I am loving it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I even took the heatexchanger off last time to make sure I could get full access to the head.

I am now at the point I think I will use permatex on the head as well AND thinking about the P Parts fix using sheet metal strips welded to the inside of the cover. Does this work? Anyone have a set available?

Could there be any engine pressure issues that could cause oil leaks like this. It is a steady drip one every second...? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

Cheers
Kerry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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DNHunt
post Oct 10 2003, 06:59 AM
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Kerry

Did you use a new gasket? If not try that

Dave
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 10 2003, 07:06 AM
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Use new gaskets. Clean everything very well. Coat both sides of new gasket with a "thin" coat of clean wheel bearing grease. Be very careful when putting the cover back in place. It can feel like it's seated when its not.
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Part Pricer
post Oct 10 2003, 07:11 AM
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First off, make sure that the valve cover is not warped. New gaskets and sticky snot ain't gonna fix any leak if the cover is not flat. Are you getting a leak only on one side? If so, swap the covers from side-to-side and see if the leak follows the cover.

Once we know the valve covers are OK, we can move on.

Use new gaskets.

Install the cover with the VW logo upside-down.

Don't wiggle the valve cover into place. Put it down flat against the head. Use a slight movement to make sure it is properly seated. Then, move the wire bale into place while holding the cover firmly.
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Kerrys914
post Oct 10 2003, 08:02 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Thanks guys..

- I had a spare set of covers and use a different cover on the 3rd attempt.
- I used new gaskets and have one left, had 4 on Sat of last week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
- VW logo is upside down
- I might have wigled the gasket some to get it into place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
- I have not heard of wheel bearing grease on valve covers before?

When I attempt to put the bail wire back on the cover wants to slide up...If it slides up I will move it back down into place. I am not sure if I can hold the cover 100% still and get the bail wire on.

The bail wire should in the down or up position when installing the cover? I have it in the down position to start.

Is there a way to check a valve cover flatness and bail wire tension? Should I try to bend the bail wire some?

Thanks guys
Kerry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 10 2003, 10:52 AM
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The cover will creep up when you flip the bail upwards. After the bail is on.. grab the cover by hand and pull down on it until you see it stop sliding back down.

Tell us ALL about this "P Parts fix using sheet metal strips welded to the inside of the cover". I would LOVE to see/hear what they are selling/doing (this should be good) I posted pics of what we sell a few years back and described how we did it. I would love to hear that they sell a "solution" now...LOL



B
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 10 2003, 10:53 AM
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Oh.. not all gaskets are created equal. Some of them have a high rubber content and are shaped like crap (they appear more black than cork brown) These slide around REAL easy. Use the ones that look like they are 90% cork and fit the cover right out of the box nicely.


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mike_the_man
post Oct 10 2003, 11:10 AM
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I think the PP fix that va914 was refering to was just a tech article about welding strips to the inside of the cover. As far as I know, they aren't selling anything. Ahh, here's the link right here
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 10 2003, 11:39 AM
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I gotcha. Not sure when John wrote that. We sell a brand new VW cover with these welded in (does no good to weld the strips to a bent cover.)

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Kerrys914
post Oct 10 2003, 12:33 PM
Post #10


Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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I have an extra set of covers I was going to weld in the strip. I had no leaks before I removed them. I wish I could remember what I did when I put them on 1 1/2 years ago.

I was refering to the artical, thanks Mike.

Brad how about the cost for two covers with the mod.. I can send you the spare set I have as a core..They have no damage and are straight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Cheers
Kerry
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 10 2003, 12:49 PM
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I honestly dont believe you need them. I install mine 100% dry and dont normally have any problems.

Use brake cleaner to get everything cleaned up (including the heads)

Lets try a few more times before we start welding. Usually its only high revving 4cyl race engines that need the extra lip on the valve covers.


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URY914
post Oct 10 2003, 01:25 PM
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How do the covers get bent so they don't fit right?
Do pepole step on them when thier off the car or is it something that happens while on the car?

Paul
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Kerrys914
post Oct 10 2003, 02:15 PM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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The get bent from pissed off 914 owners who can't stop the oil leaks and take out their frustrations on the freak'n valve cover. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) dam cover (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

That's just my guess (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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ChrisReale
post Oct 10 2003, 03:05 PM
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I have that strip on my valve covers, and they doan leak. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
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Mike D.
post Oct 10 2003, 04:14 PM
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too!
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Valve covers get warped because they are 33 years old, and they heat up and cool down and heat up and cool down. And the bail wire all the while is putting pressure on the center of a dome thus the sides (or top and bottom) get pushed out.

And they get droped, stepped on or pryed on with BF screwdriver.

Brad, where are you getting new T4 valve covers?

-Mike D.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 11 2003, 05:09 AM
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The thin film of grease will help keep it in place, and make the cover release without any gasket damage in 2000 miles, when you do your next adjustment. I use mine thru 3-4 adjustments before I replace them. I always keep a few spares if one does leak upon reinstall
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ejm
post Oct 11 2003, 06:41 AM
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I've made covers with the strip inside and they work great to keep the gasket from getting sucked in. Gaskets that leak from the start have another problem.

QUOTE(Va914 @ Oct 10 2003, 06:02 AM)
When I attempt to put the bail wire back on the cover wants to slide up..


Clean the cover and the bail contact areas and lube them with some never-seize. Start installing the cover, then lift and walk the bail up, alternating sides, into position. I use a small pry bar (like a 5" screwdriver with a bend in the tip) between the cover and the bail just outboard from where they contact. You still need to keep pressure on the middle of the bail but it won't be enough to slide the cover.
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