Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Wiring of cylinder head temp. sensor
lmcchesney
post Jul 15 2006, 12:23 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 488
Joined: 24-November 03
From: Ocala, Fl.
Member No.: 1,381
Region Association: None



I have a ring cylinder head sensor, the ring type that fits under the spark plug.
I have a VDO cylinder head temp gauge.
Two questions:
Does the ring fit between the spark plug washer and the cylinder head or bewteen the washer and the spark plug, providing the best seal for the spark plug?
What is the wiring of the sensor to gauge?
I have two 16ga. wires running from the engine bay, through the central tunnel up to the dashboard. My understanding is that the temp sensor acts as a resitor which varies with the temp. Thus you provide a positive flow through the gauge, to the sensor which grounds out on the engine block. How wrong am I?
Thanks,
Larry
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 7)
Dave_Darling
post Jul 15 2006, 01:18 PM
Post #2


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 14,991
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



The ring-type sender either replaces the plug washer or goes between it and the head. You just slip the sender over the plug.

That sender (unlike the CHT sender for the EFI) is a thermocouple, so it creates a small voltage difference between the two wires when heat is applied to the sender.

Your gauge should have come with wires for the sender. The instructions say not to cut the wires (I'm not sure why).

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
type47
post Jul 15 2006, 01:26 PM
Post #3


Viermeister
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,254
Joined: 7-August 03
From: Vienna, VA
Member No.: 994
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 15 2006, 11:18 AM) *


Your gauge should have come with wires for the sender. The instructions say not to cut the wires (I'm not sure why).

--DD


i got the wires for the set up at Lockwood Aviation (? along time ago but ran about $13 if i recall) i think you don't trim the wires as it affects the voltage signal to the gauge. "like" the voltage drop on a 100' extention cord.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
hcdmueller
post Jul 15 2006, 01:38 PM
Post #4


?????????????
***

Group: Members
Posts: 542
Joined: 4-February 06
From: UK
Member No.: 5,527
Region Association: England



You can't cut the wires because they are made from the same two metals as the thermocouple sensor. Obviously you can't mix and match the wires that are suppoesed to be different metals. If you accidentaly cut one wire, the only way to splice them back together is to weld them. I can't remember the exact reasons behind the splicing. Metalurgy class was a long time ago.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
lmcchesney
post Jul 15 2006, 01:51 PM
Post #5


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 488
Joined: 24-November 03
From: Ocala, Fl.
Member No.: 1,381
Region Association: None



OK. The sensor is a thermocopuler which generates a voltage potential between the connecting wires. Then the gauge reads the voltage potential in direct/inverse proportion to the voltage/temp.
I remember that you can not cut the wires on the sensor, in order to have the gauge within the cabin, you need to extend the wires. Dependent on the length/resistance of the connecting wires/distance I guess you need to calibrate the gauge for the in cabin location. Is that correct? If so, how (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?
Larry
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JPB
post Jul 15 2006, 02:06 PM
Post #6


The Crimson Rocket smiles in your general direction.
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,927
Joined: 12-November 05
From: Tapmahamock, Va.
Member No.: 5,107



The reason for the thermocouple wire lenght is because it has been caliberated for an exact read/lenght condition. If you cut the wire(s), it will still work but the reading will not be as accurate for the temp range it is being used for. Size if thermocouple wire and lenght all play a factor in it's application.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
lmcchesney
post Jul 15 2006, 04:10 PM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 488
Joined: 24-November 03
From: Ocala, Fl.
Member No.: 1,381
Region Association: None



Sooooo, what is the calibrated/standard length of the wires to connect to the gauge?
I understand that this system is used in aircraft where the engine is just in front of your feet. I guess I can use simular wires, connect to gauge and place the sensor in boiling water and see what the reading is.
Suggestions?
Larry
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
lmcchesney
post Jul 15 2006, 08:40 PM
Post #8


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 488
Joined: 24-November 03
From: Ocala, Fl.
Member No.: 1,381
Region Association: None



Well, we checked the calibration by placing the sensor in boiling water connected to the gauge and read just above 200F. Wired it up and with the engine warmed up about 250F. Looks like it worked (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) .
Thanks everyone.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 1st June 2024 - 04:55 AM