Push rod tube seal replacement Options

[whitey]

I want to replace my push rod tube seals without removing the heads. Do I twist and pull the tubes with pliers? Also, my engine is out of the car and I'm reinstalling the injection, re-sealing and doing a engine clean up...My compression was good at 130 psi with no smoking. I don't really want to pull the heads and cylinders but do you see any real advantage to doing this, (ie. honing the cylinders and removing carbon).

Thanks for your response

[Allan]

No need to pull the heads.

[Brando]

See if you can get a set of pliers that push outward and have the grip area on the outside of the tips. I usually install the new ones with a liberal application of silicon grease. Do not use a sealing compound like RTV or non-hardening compound -- they will continue to leak. Grease up the new seals, put them on the tube, press the tube in and rotate it a few times around to ensure a good seal.

[McMark]

To replace the pushrod tube seals:

1. Remove the heater ducting tubes (leave the exhaust in palce).
2. Pop off the valve covers.
3. Remove the rockers (11 mm wrench if stock).
4. CAREFULLY use pliers to slide the tubes outwards through the head. Do not crush the tubes.
5. Replace the seals.
6. Reinsert the tubes. Twist as you install to keep the seals from getting damaged. No silicone (RTV), no 'hard' sealants, some 565 Teflon is okay. The pushrod tubes are designed to slide in and out as the engine expands and contracts with heat.
7. Repeat for all 8 tubes.
8. Reinstall the rockers (make sure the pushrods are seated in the lifters correctly).
9. Reinstall the pushrod tube retaining wire (make sure it is installed correctly).
10. Adjust the valves.
11. Reinstall the valve covers.
12. Reinstall the heater parts.

[SGB]

left out step 3 B, remove PR tube retaining wire.
Also, make sure PRs go back into same hole with the same end at lifter

[r_towle]

I have had pretty good results with a normal sized pair of vice grips.

Clip onto the target push rod tube as close to the case as possible, with the vice grips nearly horizontal, and just lever the tube off the case.
It will pop...remove the vice grips, do the seal and push it back in.

When you use the vice grips, you can easily crush the tube...its very thin walled..so be gentle, yet you need just enough grip to hold on.

I would be willing to bet that the Capn uses some cool channel lock pliers with blue handles...my favorite tool, and he taught my why they are designed that way...bet they are always in his back pocket...

Rich

[URY914]

I don't use v-grips or pliers. I find a socket the same diameter as the PR tube and use it to push the tube into the head and case.

And to take them out, if they are leaking, they are loose and lubed up so I can usally pull them out by hand.

[McMark]

left out step 3 B, remove PR tube retaining wire.
Also, make sure PRs go back into same hole with the same end at lifter

The wire comes off when you remove the rockers, no need to remove it before-hand.
No need to remove the pushrod tubes completely. Just pull them enough to put the new seals on.

[Dave_Darling]

I don't use v-grips or pliers. I find a socket the same diameter as the PR tube and use it to push the tube into the head and case.

I use the handle end of a screwdriver. It fits the end of the tube nicely!

Big problem: No room for it when the engine is installed. So you have to push them in with your fingers or with vise-grips. I've done both, both work. Vise-grips are nice in that you can set the maximum amount that they will squeeze the tube, so it is not as likely that you'll crush them.

If you pull the tubes out by hand, wear sturdy work gloves! I took a good chunk of skin off my hand one day when I caught my hand on the edge of the cylinder head when the tube popped out.

--DD