Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> help with West fusebox update?
michaelt55
post Jun 24 2007, 05:00 PM
Post #1


Graduate of Life's experiences
**

Group: Members
Posts: 438
Joined: 2-September 06
From: Richmond, Texas
Member No.: 6,753
Region Association: None
Ok, tell me if I am right but it looks like a simple pull and plug solution? If anyone has done this, answer a couple of questions for me before I proceed. Now, the double spades are used in place of the spade above and below the old ceramic type fuses? sp they plug into each single spade on the new box?


I just hate to see my wiring get fried....looks like a rats nest anyway.


Is there any difference between the JWest and the Engman type fuse box upgrade?


Michael
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
 Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 17)
Johny Blackstain
post Jun 24 2007, 05:14 PM
Post #2


Walnut Elite Stratocaster player
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,434
Joined: 5-December 06
From: The Shenandoah River
Member No.: 7,318
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
I put a JWest fusebox in my six. It really is a plug & play process & should take no more that 2 hrs. Rule # 1: disconnect your battery. The only problem I encountered was the length of the stock wires in the harness going to the fusebox. I wound up leaving the bottom row alone & used short 2" to 3" extensions on top. ONE AT A TIME. Do them right & dont use additional connectors. I just snipped off the spades that were there, peeled the insulation back enough to splice & solder an extension onto the wire, put a new spade on the end. ONE AT A TIME. Don't use electrical tape to insulate your solders... use shrink wrap. Voila, modern fuses & you can get rid of the old ceramic ones. Unless your into concours... then sell the JWest fusebox & stay old school.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
lotus_65
post Jun 24 2007, 05:16 PM
Post #3


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,608
Joined: 21-March 05
From: minneapolis, mn
Member No.: 3,795
Region Association: Northstar Region
plan on spending a while. mine took the better part of 3hrs, maybe a little more to get done. i ended up putting the new fuse box right up to the old one and one-by-one unplug then plug in the connectors.
mine had doubles in slightly different places, so i repositioned them as my layout dictated. if you take your time, it's not that bad and really looks/works great.

Is there any difference between the JWest and the Engman type fuse box upgrade?

i can't speak to this.

paul
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ahdoman
post Jun 24 2007, 05:21 PM
Post #4


It's phonetic...Ah-D-O-Man (Audioman)
***

Group: Members
Posts: 667
Joined: 7-November 05
From: Santa Clarita, Ca.
Member No.: 5,084
Region Association: Southern California
I installed the Engman fuse panel and I love it. It was quite a task though. The fit of the original fuse box is tight enough. One of the problems I ran into was that the harness wires plug into the top of the stock fuse panel but the wires plug into the side of the Engman panel. Because of this, it took quite a bit of tricky placement to get the wires fitted around the relays. The other side of the panel was not a problem. I was unable to use the "T" type adaptors supplied with the Engman panel (used to plug in multiple leads to a single fuse) but instead used the stacking type of adaptors with much more luck. I had the added hastle of not having my harness properly installed by a previous owner so it actually took me a couple of days to install. Mine was also a "rats nest" and had a couple of fried wires in the harness I had to replace. If everything is correct it should be a 1/2 day project and about a 5 on a scale of 1 to 10. MAKE SURE YOU SHRINK WRAP ALL OF THE BARE CONNECTORS! When you pack everything back into there it is really tough not to have connectors touch each other or ground out. Also plan on taking all of the grounds loose behind the panel and cleaning them.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JWest
post Jun 24 2007, 07:06 PM
Post #5


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,662
Joined: 6-January 03
From: Fort Worth, TX
Member No.: 97
Region Association: None
QUOTE(michaelt55 @ Jun 24 2007, 06:00 PM) *

Ok, tell me if I am right but it looks like a simple pull and plug solution? If anyone has done this, answer a couple of questions for me before I proceed. Now, the double spades are used in place of the spade above and below the old ceramic type fuses? sp they plug into each single spade on the new box?


I just hate to see my wiring get fried....looks like a rats nest anyway.


Is there any difference between the JWest and the Engman type fuse box upgrade?


Michael


You are correct about the multiple connections.

The JWest fuse box has highly detailed labels that are specific to your year of 914 and include wiring colors, fuse ratings, and a list of all the items protected by each fuse.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Elliot Cannon
post Jun 24 2007, 08:37 PM
Post #6


914 Guru
*****

Group: Retired Members
Posts: 8,487
Joined: 29-December 06
From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast)
Member No.: 7,407
Region Association: None
I installed JWest fuse panels in both my cars. I just did my 6 today and it was a bit more difficult because of the roll cage kinda got in the way a bit. Impossible to get the old rubber relay mounts back into the holes. I couldn't use the supplied metal mount for the panel anyway. Just tucked the relays under the dash. I have been totally satisfied with JWest products.
cheers, Elliot
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
banger
post Jun 24 2007, 10:54 PM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 354
Joined: 12-November 06
From: Santa Clarita
Member No.: 7,205
Region Association: Southern California

I installed it in mine as well, and took around 30 minutes. You can get the fuse holders from waytek wire, if you want to save some money, and come up with your own mount.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Johny Blackstain
post Jun 25 2007, 07:01 AM
Post #8


Walnut Elite Stratocaster player
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,434
Joined: 5-December 06
From: The Shenandoah River
Member No.: 7,318
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 24 2007, 10:37 PM) *

Impossible to get the old rubber relay mounts back into the holes.


I used Armor All & needle nose pliers. Lube them up, put them in place & finish the job w/ the pliers. I was worried about ripping them & but it worked out perfect, no damage. Take your time w/ this step & nothing gets ripped.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
michaelt55
post Jun 25 2007, 07:21 AM
Post #9


Graduate of Life's experiences
**

Group: Members
Posts: 438
Joined: 2-September 06
From: Richmond, Texas
Member No.: 6,753
Region Association: None
great tip..I wondering how I was going to accomplish this....


Michael
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Johny Blackstain
post Jun 25 2007, 08:45 AM
Post #10


Walnut Elite Stratocaster player
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,434
Joined: 5-December 06
From: The Shenandoah River
Member No.: 7,318
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
Actually, in retrospect, I should have used my own spit instead. I think spit is much easier on the overall life of rubber vs. Armor All. Not trying to be gross, just know rubber likes spit.

Rubber also likes creamy peanut butter... it's what I use to get the wax off of the rubber on any of my toys... you know, that wax that gets on it & dries white after you wash & wax your Teener? My .02.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
736conver
post Jun 25 2007, 09:48 AM
Post #11


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,117
Joined: 25-May 03
From: SE Wisconsin
Member No.: 736
Region Association: None
QUOTE(banger @ Jun 24 2007, 11:54 PM) *

You can get the fuse holders from waytek wire, if you want to save some money, and come up with your own mount.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

You can get your own holders and save some loot. I think mine cost under $20, minus the cost of new blade fuses. Not a plug and play like the kits, but not $100 either.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
racunniff
post Jul 5 2007, 10:30 PM
Post #12


volt914
**

Group: Members
Posts: 172
Joined: 21-August 06
From: Fort Collins, CO
Member No.: 6,705
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
I'm running into some issues with the JWest replacement as well. Probably because of a PO with random wiring skills (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif), but, still, I'm left with a conundrum. Here's the front of the fuse box:

Attached Image

The bottom connections make sense (ignore the brown wire, it's part of the PO mess):

Attached Image

However, the top connections are FUBAR. See the missing yellow headlight motor wire (nowhere to be found...) and the "extra" dangling red/black wire.

Attached Image

I'm off to scrutinize my current flow diagrams (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif), but I thought maybe someone here would have a quick tip.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
porsche914gt
post Jul 5 2007, 11:57 PM
Post #13


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 86
Joined: 20-January 04
From: Los Angeles, CA
Member No.: 1,581
Region Association: None
The JWest panel fits much tighter than the original. I got some nylon washers and super glued 2 together on each side and made a 3/4" extension, also got longer screws. My #12 fuse never worked since I got it, and havent taken it apart to find out the reason. I just hooked up another single.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
michaelt55
post Jul 6 2007, 07:48 AM
Post #14


Graduate of Life's experiences
**

Group: Members
Posts: 438
Joined: 2-September 06
From: Richmond, Texas
Member No.: 6,753
Region Association: None
I found out the same thing, very tight fit...I would love to help you but my wiring is totally different due to mods....

Michael
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
brownaar
post Jul 7 2007, 03:07 PM
Post #15


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 263
Joined: 23-September 04
From: Gate City, VA
Member No.: 2,813
Region Association: None
racunniff,
It seems to me I had to jumper from the yellow wire to the headlight motor fuse. I switched from the original fuse panel, so I'm pretty sure my connections were all correct. Hope this helps.
Aaron
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JWest
post Jul 7 2007, 08:34 PM
Post #16


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,662
Joined: 6-January 03
From: Fort Worth, TX
Member No.: 97
Region Association: None
QUOTE(racunniff @ Jul 5 2007, 11:30 PM) *

However, the top connections are FUBAR. See the missing yellow headlight motor wire (nowhere to be found...) and the "extra" dangling red/black wire.


That is correct, the first two pairs of headlight fuses are internally bussed on the input side so that one wire feeds two headlight outputs.

The black/red should be for the fresh air fan and goes to fuse #8. What color is the other wire you have on fuse 8? It looks tan but that would not be correct.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
racunniff
post Jul 17 2007, 04:48 PM
Post #17


volt914
**

Group: Members
Posts: 172
Joined: 21-August 06
From: Fort Collins, CO
Member No.: 6,705
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
QUOTE(James Adams @ Jul 7 2007, 06:34 PM) *

QUOTE(racunniff @ Jul 5 2007, 11:30 PM) *

However, the top connections are FUBAR. See the missing yellow headlight motor wire (nowhere to be found...) and the "extra" dangling red/black wire.


That is correct, the first two pairs of headlight fuses are internally bussed on the input side so that one wire feeds two headlight outputs.

The black/red should be for the fresh air fan and goes to fuse #8. What color is the other wire you have on fuse 8? It looks tan but that would not be correct.


That tan one is part of the PO "engineering". I have removed it. I assume the black/red wire goes in its place?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JmuRiz
post Jul 18 2007, 09:55 AM
Post #18


914 Guru
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,434
Joined: 30-December 02
From: NoVA
Member No.: 50
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
Fun, can't wait to install mine, already have a known ground issue and FUBAR right front turn signal issues, and a non-working fresh air fan. Waiting to really see the PO's mods in the fuse panel!

Best of luck racunniff in sorting it all out.

Hey, anyone make new wiring harnesses, might be easier for some with really messed up stuff to get a new one and start from scratch.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
« Next Oldest · 914World Garage · Next Newest »
 

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 

Display Mode: Switch to: Standard · Linear+ · Switch to: Outline

Track this topic · Email this topic · Print this topic · Subscribe to this forum

- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 16th June 2024 - 12:50 AM
Invision Power Board v9.1.4 © 2024  IPS, Inc.
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community!
We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ...