I want to delete the relay board, How do I do this? Options

[URY914]

I deleted my alternator (wire, tin, bolts, nuts, brackets, etc) and saved 18 pounds!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Now I want to delete the relay board. But I need to know how to wire the starter in. I know I'll need some sort of voltage regulator or relay in the starter circuit.

What have the others of you done?

Thanks,
Paul

[john rogers]

Here's what we did: Get the wiring diagram for your year, then figure which wires from the front part of the car will be needed and which wires going to the rear part are needed. These are generally the two large connectors on the board. Then get one or two of the military aircraft locking type of connectors and lay out which wires go to which pins on each side of the connector. Get someone you can trust to double check your diagram so there will be NO sparks! The cut the wires and splice in new sections to extend each wire (on mine about 6 inches worked) then connect to each side of the connectors. If you have a rear electrical kill switch you will have to wire that in as will a engine comptartment starter switch if you have one (I do, very handy). I use an alternator with a built in regulator so I don't need the board mounted regulator and all power comes through the kill switch before going anywhere. Good luck.

I want to eliminate as many wires as I can also. I want to use single switches for the necessary items such as fuel pump and battery cut out.

[Malmz]

Eliminating the relay board is common with the V8 conversion. I'm assuming your carbed... You don't need to relay anything for the start circut at the rear of the car (other then the starter relay on the starter), you just run the start lead from the harness that goes into the relay board straight to the starter.

You only really need a couple more wires that go into the relay board on the front. You need the tach wire, and the ignition hot wire. You probably don't care about the reverse light wires.

Then again, if you are truely going for weight savings, remove that harness all the way to the dash and just run new wires for the few things you need for a race car...

sm

[ss6]

You don't need a regulator for the starter. The voltage regulator is normally there to "throttle" the output of the alternator which would otherwise produce wildly varying voltages as your engine rpm's vary. As far as the starter circuit goes, it merely goes in one connector and out another. If you jumper pin 1 of the 14 pin connector to pin 6 of the 12 pin connector, your starter should work. Both the wires of the pins mentioned should be yellow in color.

[Malmz]

I typed too slow...........................

[sj914]

As I recall, the thick yellow wire from the starter gets connected to the yellow wire of the main harness. The fuel pump, if your running carbs gets wired to a switched +12v. Now is that minimum enough.

[URY914]

Thanks Boys...

You confirmed by thoughs but I didn't want to get into without checking with you'all.
I got it now.

Thanks,
Paul

[URY914]

I'm running a fuel pump, starter, tach, kill switch, push button starter and toggle switch for the fuel pump.

Sorta basic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)

Paul

[sj914]

You can probably take a couple more pounds of wiring if your running really basic.

[si2t3m]

I ditched the 914 relayboard when i converted from the 2.2 six to the 3.0L six as it now had an internal regulator.

You can buy a 14pin male connector at the dealer. IIRC it's a 928 part. This way you don't have to play with the front part of the wiring harness. You just take the 12pin connector apart, and put the proper wires to the new 14pin male connector. I've seen some /6 conversion diagrams to ditch the relay board floating around. The same should apply for a /4 with carbs. You just need to figure out how to wire the external voltage regulator.

HTH

Marc-André

[davep]

You moght be best off removing the existing harness in as complete a condition as possible. Then create a new harness to do exactly what you require. I would use a starter switch to operate a relay to operate the solenoid. There has been a "hot-start" kit available for years. That reduces the current through the switch and wiring. Reduces the cost of the switch(s), but adds the cost of a relay. I see Bosch 30 amp relays around that would be ideal.

DaveP