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> Why the opposition to the trunk mounted oil tank?
terrybpp
post Jul 27 2007, 06:58 AM
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After searching through a few hundred posts I have seen that people would much rather pay $1000 for a original 914-6 fender mounted tank than $200 for a aluminum trunk mounted cell. Seems like an easy savings.

The only issue I can think of besides aesthetics is the aftermarket tank could use some windage/baffling.

I can understand if you are building a concourse car but not a auto-x or driver. I'd like to hear some feedback.
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jimkelly
post Jul 27 2007, 07:20 AM
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http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=74228&hl=

see this

jim
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terrybpp
post Jul 27 2007, 07:29 AM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Jul 27 2007, 09:20 AM) *


It seems the argument is if you go with AN stainless lines with the aftermarket tank it will get pricey. I feel that pain. I built a turbo e30 m30 and shelled out some $ for all Earl's fittings. That will blow a budget.

You could go with standard high pressure hose? Its not like the factory tank was all AN.


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jimkelly
post Jul 27 2007, 07:43 AM
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let me know what you find - i have a 1969 2.0 6 that i would like - one day - to put in a 914. - jim

do you have any leads on other conversion parts - flywheels ??

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Air_Cooled_Nut
post Jul 27 2007, 11:38 AM
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QUOTE(terrybpp @ Jul 27 2007, 05:58 AM) *

...

I can understand if you are building a concourse car but not a auto-x or driver. I'd like to hear some feedback.

Uhm, if I had a driver I'd want all the trunk space I could get, particularly since I'd plan on driving as much as I could with the top off. So in my dream world, it's the stock location for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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mike_the_man
post Jul 27 2007, 12:02 PM
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I've often wondered the same thing. A buddy of mine is building a Lotus Europa, and I believe he used a small fuel cell with some baffling, and it seems to work pretty good. Not too sure what he used for fittings, but I'll find out.

My thought was to relocate the battery to the front trunk, and mount the oil tank where the battery currently is. It seems like it would be pretty simple to me, assuming that fittings and lines could be done reasonably cheaply.

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mike_the_man
post Jul 27 2007, 12:17 PM
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I just talked to my friend. He used a one gallon fuel cell that he got for $100. It was set up for AN-10 fittings, and he had the lines made up for another $100 or so. So, around $200 for a tank and lines seems pretty darn reasonable to me. The tank isn't a whole lot bigger than a battery, so I figure it would fit in quite nicely. I'll see if I can get some pictures.

Anyone have any thoughts?
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jul 27 2007, 12:25 PM
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What about the internal baffling? They didn't put in there just to make the tank expensive, and it's not just there to keep the oil from sloshing around, IIRC .........

The Cap'n
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mike_the_man
post Jul 27 2007, 12:32 PM
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I think this fuel cell has some sort of baffling, but I'll have to check. What is the purpose of baffling in an oil tank? To keep the oil from foaming up? I don't know much about any of this, but I am a CSOB, so I'm always looking for the cheap way out.

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Cap'n Krusty
post Jul 27 2007, 12:41 PM
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QUOTE(mike_the_man @ Jul 27 2007, 11:32 AM) *

I think this fuel cell has some sort of baffling, but I'll have to check. What is the purpose of baffling in an oil tank? To keep the oil from foaming up? I don't know much about any of this, but I am a CSOB, so I'm always looking for the cheap way out.


The filter is mounted to the tank, so there's internal plumbing to direct the oil through the filter, among other things. My main point is you need to consider the purpose of the tank, as designed, and the way the oiling system works before switching to an aftermarket or home made unit.

You also have to consider that the cheapest way is often the most expensive in the long run. The Cap'n
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McMark
post Jul 27 2007, 01:04 PM
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One of my favorite things about a 914 is how much stuff I can cram in them. A gigantic oil tank in the trunk with a mess of lines going every which way or a giant radiator completely obliterates half of your storage space.

But it is a great way to save some money, if you're into that sort of thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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John
post Jul 27 2007, 03:26 PM
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I have used and will continue using round purpose made dry sump tanks in my conversion cars.

I thought seriously about the fender mounted tank on my street car (latest conversion) but at the time they were unavailable (which has changed since then). I too believe in the internal baffling that works to separate the air bubbles from the oil as it returns to the tank.

Mine is a 3 gallon tank and my system holds 12 quarts (one quart more than a factory 911). My temps are cool.

While it does take up front trunk space, there is still the rear trunk, and if so desired, one could still load up the remainder of the front trunk.

My car is a toy. It is not intended to do heavy hauling, and since I have a family (more than just a wife) it is ridiculous to think it would be taken on trips.

I too drive mostly with the top off and there is a surprising amount of room in the rear trunk even with my spare in there (under the top).

And it moves some more weight toward the front of the vehicle.

I think when it comes down to price, once said and done, it is a wash (if both tank types are available).

I still vividly remember some defective aftermarket factory style tanks that were made a long time ago that caused 911 engines to come to an untimely death, and I don't want that to happen with my money........ Anyone else old enough to remember this? (I know you are out there)

Just my $0.02


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jsteele22
post Jul 27 2007, 04:02 PM
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It's been a while since I've chimed in on a subject I know little about, but here goes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

As John mentioned, the tank does more than just hold oil. The oil is flowing into and out of the tank at a fairly high rate, and it is very important that by the time it gets to the bottom of the tank it is all oil (no bubbles). So often the stream of oil shooting into the tank hits a smooth but sudden turn to produce a little centrifugal separation. Then there are mesh screens whose large surface area tends to attract the oil and "pop" the bubbles. And plates with holes cut in them, etc. So it's not just a simple matter of baffling like you would have in a gas tank.

If you're looking for a less expensive way (and your time is absolutely free...) check out the standard metalworking books that show up in the automotive section at the local bookstore. I can't remember which book it was, but one that I read had a great illustrated project to make an oil tank. Very nice looking, and I'm sure its simple to build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) In any case, it is fun reading.
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brant
post Jul 27 2007, 07:35 PM
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AN-10 lines would be too small for my comfort on an oil tank.
I'd never put less than AN-12 on any size -6 motor.

but the main arguement in my book is weight distribution.
you want to REMOVE every single ounce that you can out of the rear trunk of a 914 for handling sake.

this is even true on a -4
but when you increase the rear distribution by another 150lbs by adding a -6 it becomes more important.

brant
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SirAndy
post Jul 27 2007, 08:20 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Jul 27 2007, 05:35 PM) *

but when you increase the rear distribution by another 150lbs by adding a -6 it becomes more important.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

i didn't change the suspension setup and now with the /6 the car handles completely different.
i have to get back on the drawing board in regards to suspension & handling. just from the weight of the motor and associated components ...


for cheaper high pressure oil-hose, check out my conversion thread.
the blue hose has been working very well so far ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy
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