My God Bones, what have I done?, Busted my engine-drop cherry Options

[mudfoot76]

UPDATES BELOW



Finally got around to working on the teener again tonight. I was trying to find a local source for the 12 point tool to remove the CV bolts, but ended up getting it from Pelican. One thing their article doesn't mention is that when I pryed the joints apart, these thin metal/cardboard gaskets fell out (in pieces). Is this normal?

Once those were apart, we double and triple checked to make sure all the wires, hoses, etc were disconnected. Looks good, so we thought. Place the furniture cart, position everything, slowly lower, unbolt engine and trans mount bolts (those engine bar bolts were a PITA!!!) *plop* Start to try and roll it out, and we notice we forgot to disconnect the flapper wires (D'OH!). OK, 8mm wrench, done.

Now the only problem is that our floor jacks cannot lift the car high enough for the carbs (44idf) to fit underneath everything. We tried to rotate the drivetrain around some but no luck. My helpers were my brother and a co-worker, and both of them had to leave at 10pm. We placed jackstands in strategic supporting areas (and left the floorjacks too just to be safe) and they left. I didn't want to do anything else to the car in this state without anyone else around to call for help in the event of an accident so we will resume tomorrow. Either I need to find better floorjacks with higher lift, or the carbs have to be removed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (or both? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) )

I'll be hosting an engine installation BBQ when it is time to put the mofo back in the car. Aligning the sheetmetal into the rubber gasket, I imagine, will be teh suXXorz, but easier if there are other ppl around who have done this before.

[SGB]

Just remove the carbs,,,,

[Crazyhippy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 3 bolts @ the base of the manifold, a clean rag down each head, and you're free.

BJH

[JBart]

Go to the parts house and buy two real jacks it's worth the money and you'll have them forever . I have dual 40's also and with the jacks i have it's no prob. unless you are planning on taking the carbs off for the work you plan on do.


GOOD LUCK



jbart

[shaggy]

depending on how close the fit is you would use a spacer like a 4x12 board.

take the car set it on stands. lower jacks just before the rear bulkhead (behind driver passenger). place wood under car over the jacks.
raise the jacks with the wood spacer.

hope that helps.
i did it like that once.
-jim

[mudfoot76]

depending on how close the fit is you would use a spacer like a 4x12 board.

We contemplated this last night, but I wasn't comfortable with it. After the recent incident of someone's car falling on their face from a bad jackstand, I'm really paranoid about raising the car off the ground and adding a wooden spacer seemed to me to just make everything even riskier.

I am trying to avoid removing the carbs and have been looking for an excuse to buy a high-rise floorjack (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[rhodyguy]

leave the intakes ALONE! remove the 4 nuts that secure each carb to the intakes and lift the carbs/linkage off in one piece and you don't disturb the gaskets. this will retain your linkage setting too. get an extra floor jack and place them under the ends of the rear control arms. this should give you plenty of room to roll the engine out.

k

[r_towle]

you have three choices.

In order of easiest to hardest, simplest to PITA.

Take off the carbs.
Reset jacks, raise car higher. (you dont get under the car while pulling the motor, if it falls, you are not under there)
Tip engine (raise rear of tranny) to clear the firewall, pull, then set back down till you get to the bumper.

Rich

[GaroldShaffer]

I'll be hosting an engine installation BBQ when it is time to put the mofo back in the car. Aligning the sheetmetal into the rubber gasket, I imagine, will be teh suXXorz, but easier if there are other ppl around who have done this before.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

Let us know when. I will be there. I only did a install once, like 10 yrs ago, but in never hurts to have some extra hands.

[mudfoot76]

Let us know when. I will be there. I only did a install once, like 10 yrs ago, but in never hurts to have some extra hands.

Thanks Garold, you rock! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I will make a formal announcement when the time comes.

BTW - for those keeping score at home, this is all happening in my hope that I can resolve why my motor likes to burst oil filters (yes, even Mahle ones).

Ya know, as long as I already have the motor out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[mudfoot76]

Thanks to everyone's advice, I finally got the motor out from under the car.





I do not recall seeing an engine serial number that looked like this one. I know that all TIV cases are essentially the same, but I'm curious as to how this one started life.

The blue hoses were for the external oil cooler. I'd like to get all that stuff disconnected from the case, but it looks like I have to take off all the cooling tin?

Some unsettling things I've discovered during this process:
1. My exhaust hanger bracket is only held on by one hex nut instead of two, and the studs coming out of the back of the transmission are drastically different lengths.. This doesn't seem right.

2. All of the nuts securing the carbs were only finger-tight. And one carb was missing the outer two nuts. Could these have worked their way off, or were they just never properly tightened?

[ptravnic]

BTW - for those keeping score at home, this is all happening in my hope that I can resolve why my motor likes to burst oil filters (yes, even Mahle ones).

Sounds like your oil pressure regulator piston is stuck or the spring is stuck - something like that. Maybe some crud or shrapnel got in there. It's prob easier to do with the engine raised rather than on a furniture dolly though.

[mudfoot76]

Sounds like your oil pressure regulator piston is stuck or the spring is stuck - something like that. Maybe some crud or shrapnel got in there. It's prob easier to do with the engine raised rather than on a furniture dolly though.

I tried a number of different suggestions for the pressure relief valves a few months ago because I was avoiding the whole engine removal. I even sent the car to two different Porsche "experts" (who later admitted to never having worked on a TIV before), and both of them were stumped and suggested complete tear-downs. I sought advice from STF after those ordeals and they suggested pull the motor out and I have a new laundry list of items to inspect.

The pressure relief piston is clean and smooth, the bore is clean and smooth, the spring compresses with what is supposed to be appropriate tension. I've even taken it out and tried to run the motor and the filters still pop. Everything I've seen suggests that oil gets pumped into the filter and there is no way for it to escape back into the case.

[SGB]

Were temps ever high (maybe blockage in the oil cooler?)

Well, now that you've done it, are you less intimidated by the engine drop process?

[mudfoot76]

Were temps ever high (maybe blockage in the oil cooler?)

Well, now that you've done it, are you less intimidated by the engine drop process?

No, oil temps were never abnormal before any of this happened.

It was a little scary when I removed the last bolt on the trans mount and the whole thing dropped onto the cart. Otherwise, the only things that concern me is making sure I'll be able to reconnect all the bastardized wiring that all the POs have done. I spent many hours drawing my own diagrams and labeling every wire, so hopefully that means re-intall will be relatively easy. I still think that getting the engine re-aligned with the car will be a PITA, and when that time comes I will host a BBQ.

I am strongly considering installing dual CHTs while this is out. That shouldn't be too hard, should it?