Identifying engine, serial doesnt match pelicans? |
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Identifying engine, serial doesnt match pelicans? |
stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 08:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
i found the serial number on my engine and im having trouble identifying it. i tried comparing it to the FAQ on Pelican:
"A very good indicator of what type of four-banger you have is the engine code. The engine code is located in front of the oil filler, between it and the fan shroud, on 2.0L cases. The code should start with "GA" (for 73-74) or "GC" (for 75-76). The European 2.0L engine code starts with "GB". The 1.7L and 1.8L engine codes are on a flat spot located toward the right-rear of the top of the case. You may have to push some hoses and wires out of the way, and clean off a lot of dirt to read them. 1.7L engine codes start with "W", "EA", or "EB" (for the 73 California car). The 1.8L codes start with "EC" for the US model, or "AN" for the European model." now im pretty sure mine is: 6A012526 so far ive been under the impression that this is a '76 can anyone help clarify? |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 17 2007, 08:45 PM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Looks more like a "G" than a "6" to me. GA == 73-74 2.0, US spec. Looks like someone swapped an early motor into a late car, and added the smog pump to it. Does it have air injection ports in the heads? I don't see the metal piping that distributed the smog pump air, though, so maybe not all of it was hooked up?
--DD |
stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 09:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
so would you agree it is in fact a 2.0L?
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Dave_Darling |
Sep 18 2007, 01:47 AM
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#4
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
2.0 case, 2.0 air cleaner, 2.0 manifold and throttle body... Yeah, that'd be the way to bet! How about the heads? I can't really see the plug wires or the intake studs; are there three studs or four holding the intake runner pipes onto the heads? Do the plugs come out the sides of the engine tin, or the horizontal top parts?
--DD |
BMartin914 |
Sep 18 2007, 07:50 AM
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#5
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||| Group: Members Posts: 1,408 Joined: 30-May 04 From: Oregon Member No.: 2,128 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
You've still got the original air pump on the car (1st giveaway) and only 2.0s were available in 76.
Pretty much rules out any other engine and that air pump screams originality. |
jd74914 |
Sep 18 2007, 08:07 AM
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#6
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,780 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
You've still got the original air pump on the car (1st giveaway) and only 2.0s were available in 76. Pretty much rules out any other engine and that air pump screams originality. But he should have a GC engine . . . it looks like someone swapped the air pump onto an older engine to avoid getting caught for swapping the engine (smog equipment wise). |
Jake Raby |
Sep 18 2007, 08:30 AM
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#7
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
GB is a European GA code engine, all characteristics of the case are the same, but it would have had Euro P/C...
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stateofidleness |
Sep 19 2007, 05:35 AM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
so what's the verdict?
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type47 |
Sep 19 2007, 07:09 AM
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#9
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Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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stateofidleness |
Sep 19 2007, 07:32 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
k, ill check that when i get home from work
been sick past few days so havent been around the car much ill check and update tonight! |
yellow1 |
Sep 19 2007, 01:10 PM
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#11
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 48 Joined: 7-September 07 From: NY Member No.: 8,090 |
Hi,newbie here i also was trying to find out about what engine i have in my car and i was told to look for the same things u are being told to check for from the freindly people on this site,and it seems i have a 2.0.I just want to say thanks for posting the pic of the engine code area,i was not sure if i was looking in the right place now i know need to really clean up that area and get a better look there.I edited your pic so the code can be seen in case some other newbie will no where to look.thx
Attached image(s) |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 20 2007, 10:02 AM
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#12
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Oh, one more thing: I don't see any cross-shaft for the engine cooling flaps. The flaps MUST BE IN PLACE for the cooling system to work correctly! (The plug for the timing hole also needs to be there; it looks like it is missing as well.)
Do your engine a favor, and pull the engine tin off to install the cooling flaps. --DD |
stateofidleness |
Sep 20 2007, 04:21 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
Oh, one more thing: I don't see any cross-shaft for the engine cooling flaps. The flaps MUST BE IN PLACE for the cooling system to work correctly! (The plug for the timing hole also needs to be there; it looks like it is missing as well.) Do your engine a favor, and pull the engine tin off to install the cooling flaps. --DD dave.. i wouldn't even know where to start with that do you have a picture that i can reference to? seems like theres a number of things "missing", i just got the haynes manual the other day but the pictures arent clear and neither is the text (and people swear by these??) i was wondering what that threaded hole was behind the oil filler. where can i get this replacement cap? also, what kind of job is it to replace these "cooling flaps"? thanks dave |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 21 2007, 10:49 AM
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#14
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The threaded hole is in front of the oil filler--at least, if we're talking about "front" being toward the nose of the car!
That is the timing hole. If you stick your head waaaay into the engine bay, you can look through the hole to see the timing marks on the rear part of the fan. There is a plastic plug that screws in there; it should be available from all of your favorite 914 parts places. (My favorite is in my sig below!) Everyone swears by (and at!) the Haynes because it's cheap, and gives you about 85% of the words and pictures straight out of the $400 factory manuals. Yeah, the factory manuals are not so great... Re-installing the cooling flaps is a pretty tedious process. There's lots of stuff "in the way" that has to be removed. Pretty much all of the intake, all of the ignition, and so on--all of the stuff on top of the motor. Then you get to try to remove the engine tin screws (the only screwdriver I could find that fits the screw heads is about 2.5 feet long!) and wiggle the engine tin that covers the cylinder heads out of the engine bay, so you can put the flaps in. Then get everything else back in. Probably worth checking to see if the flaps are actually there or not. If not, your oil temps will get quite high... --DD |
stateofidleness |
Sep 21 2007, 10:56 AM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
cool thanks dave.
ill have to order that timing hole plug (i was wondering what the name of it was) from pelican or if anyone has a spare laying around or from a parts car theyd like ot donate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) would i have to do ALL htat work JUST to check if theyre even there?? dave do you have a picture of these cooling flaps or is it a piece thats not highly visible? what about this "cross-shaft" you're talking about? thanks for the help EDIT: dave im having trouble finding that part on pelican. little help? |
ruddyboys |
Sep 21 2007, 11:52 AM
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#16
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Hummel eigentümer Group: Members Posts: 594 Joined: 3-March 04 From: Monroe, NY Member No.: 1,749 Region Association: North East States |
DD- I was always under the impression the flaps were there to help warm the engine up faster, as the engine warms the flaps open to cool it down. If the flaps were missing it would take a longer time to get to operating temp. Being in TX that should take too long.
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Dave_Darling |
Sep 21 2007, 09:46 PM
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#17
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Timing hole plug, part number 021 119 233 A . Listed as NLA (rats!); used is probably your most cost-effective way to go.
Picture of the flaps and such: http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/parts/engi...oling_large.htm It's an "exploded" picture, so it isn't the clearest... The flaps go under the engine tin at the very front, right up against the fan shroud. They point the air coming out of the fan to where it needs to go. The cross-shaft runs across the front of the motor, just behind the fan shroud and just in front of the oil filler tower. You absolutely need the right-side flap! When in its "open" position, it separates part of the air flow and ducts it into the oil cooler. Without the flap there, air will bypass the cooler, or worse yet hot air from under the engine will get sucked up into the cooler! Oil temps will go up... It's best if the whole flaps and thermostat are there and working correctly. Failing that, having the flaps in place in the "fully open" position is OK. An alternative to that is only having that right-side flap in place, and having it fastened down in the open position. If someone has done that last, you may have to pull the right-side engine tin off to tell... A lot of people have reasoned that "flaps block air, removing flaps means more air". That's why the flaps get left out, but the reasoning is very wrong. And leaving them out is a Very Bad Thing... --DD |
Rusty |
Sep 22 2007, 04:12 PM
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#18
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Wanted: Engine case GA003709 Group: Admin Posts: 7,941 Joined: 24-December 02 From: North Alabama Member No.: 6 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
My wild-assed hypothesis...
Your car might have needed an engine rebuild sometime in the past. Maybe for leaks, maybe for low compression... who knows? They got into it, and discovered the case was worn or maybe they couldn't find one of the case nuts and cracked the darned thing... So, an enterprising shop (or previous owner) sourced a case and bolted all the old stuff, including the smog pump, back into it. However, this guy believed that he'd improve cooling by removing the flaps (a very common misconception, like Dave said above). Or... maybe I should just go have another beer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
stateofidleness |
Sep 22 2007, 05:19 PM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
WOW.. that's sounds either really far fetched just from looking at that picture or VERY disheartening...
i checked last night and i DEFINITELY have the engine tin on. but i still dont know what the "cooling flaps" look like... |
Hammy |
Sep 22 2007, 05:48 PM
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#20
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mr. Wonderful Group: Members Posts: 1,826 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Columbia, California Member No.: 2,978 Region Association: Northern California |
WOW.. that's sounds either really far fetched just from looking at that picture or VERY disheartening... i checked last night and i DEFINITELY have the engine tin on. but i still dont know what the "cooling flaps" look like... This might help you picture it or confuse you even more (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Dave Darling's diagram link shows it pretty well also. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...l=cooling+flaps http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=30107&st=0 |
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