ram air Options

[minnesota loon]

Has anyone gone to a ram air system? It would seem to open up alot of space in the engine compartment. What has your experience been? Is it worth the investment?

[rick 918-S]

Need more info. Are you speaking of cooling or engine intake air?

BTW: MN gathering at Kelly's tomorrow.


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76837

We could talk about your concept there.

[minnesota loon]

Engine intake air. auto atlanta has a system for sale 130$.

[tdgray]

Not worth it... couple of guys have done it with misc parts from HD.

Not sure if there was any noticable increase in performance etc.

Subject of debate as always

Remember... the search function is your friend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Chris Pincetich]

I built this below for my 1.7....GREEN racing filter from Summit on Clearance (for a 5L V8!!), magic 2.5" 45 deg male/female ABS to connect to throttle body, and other plumbing. Total cost was roughly $60 + 1 hr labor + 2 hours shopping.

I was going for cold-air intake as well as increased flow at high rpms. I race AX a lot and have a nice header, so I didn't want flow restricted at the intake. I still need to plumb the oil overflow, which used to be outside the filter/oil bath into a oil breather box. This type of set-up is louder than stock (like carb intake noise) and I think it does help 4-6K rpm. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[BahnBrenner914]

I have the Autoatlanta type intake. It's not a ram air system, but a bigger/higher flow filter. It makes more noise, you can hear the air sucking in. As far as performance, it doesnt hurt, but it's not a magic hp wand.

[Cap'n Krusty]

I have the Autoatlanta type intake. It's not a ram air system, but a bigger/higher flow filter. It makes more noise, you can hear the air sucking in. As far as performance, it doesnt hurt, but it's not a magic hp wand.

Bigger? Yes, it's larger, but the pleats are coarse, and there aren't very many of them. The pores are FAR larger, giving you more air flow, and dirt flow, until the oil on the element collects enough dust, at which point you have LESS air flow. We compared the square inches of the K&N panel filter against the stock paper filter. It had less than half the filter area, and of course, larger pores. How can that be better, you say? It's NOT. I've never seen any dyno results for this stuff, maybe because the results wouldn't sell any filters. What matters in filters is the square inches of filter media and the size of the pores. All the rest is BS. Twice the filter area allows the same flow with smaller pores, giving you the same flow as the less efficient filter. Maybe quieter, too. Noise level isn't a measure of power.

The Cap'n

[Maltese Falcon]

The changeover to a cone style filter has its ups and downs. The ebay $10.00 offshore specials are known to have a high rate of restriction, and usually look like they have sucked-in on themselves. One of our customers has seen one (offshore) disintegrate and small portions of the filter suck into the engine.
We have been developing these since 1997, and using only U.S.mfg. S & B filters, see www.thetruthaboutfilters.com
Even Green Filter Co. covertly came over to S &B in the late '90s for a "Tour" (lol) .
On normal aspiration cars, every little bit of CFM helps. Our '74 914/ 2.0 CI car ran 1.40s at Willow (streets CW with Bowl). With only the filter changed to our short ram /S&B and a basic oil change and tuneup , we ran a 1.38 (CI record) and
we will proll'y top that in Nov. That's 2 seconds per lap faster with a small investment. This is also the same unit that AA markets.
But throwing on just any cone filter will not do it. Buyer beware.
Marty

[Maltese Falcon]

Turbo engines benefit even more from the cone filter. These engines crave massive doses of cfm airflow when spooling up boost. The technically managed engines cool the compacted/heated boost air with efficient intercoolers...bringing denser air to the cylinders.
Case in point: the new BMW 335i twin turbo inline 6, makes good power right from the dealer . Our short-ram style cone filter makes +12.89 RWHP over stock, and our cold air attachment yields a few more.
These BMW owners are still in denial that we could build a better air filter system than their Munich engineers.
Again, almost +13 RWHP for a small investment. Not to mention a cleanable/ re-useable filter, excellent throttle response and nicer engine sounds.
Marty

[Maltese Falcon]

...the cold air attachment for the turbo 335i. Car has an incredible spooling sound...not like the Subys or Mitsus. Gale Banks recently did a show on Speedchannel, and he was talking up +1 WHP for every 10 degrees cooler of air delivery temp. That's even more free hp !
Marty

[Brando]

To get ram air you'd have to run ducting to the front of the car or have a ridiculous looking scoop stick over the roof.

OR

Vents in the side panels ducted to the engine bay through the panels. Big ones, with your air intake right on the other side.

[Mid_Engine_914]

Cold Air Intakes definitely work on modern cars. I have a magazine article where they tested different CAIs on a 2001 12V GTI VR6 and got an increase of 9hp and 8 lb*ft of torque on a chassis dyno just by adding a CAI.

[BarberDave]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

There is a guy in Texas, Charlie Davis, that had a cool set up with a scoop on

the drivers side rocker panel,for a oil cooler. Don't see why the same couldn't be

hooked to the air cleaner. You would get a ram affect and cooler denser air.

Check the archives here i belive his screen name is " Chuckster" & the Club,also

Renlist it should be at one or the other. It also includes some very interesting

other things also. Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[JPB]

The most important thing about air intake is the temperature of the air. Cooler air is denser than hot air. If you get your air from outside the engine compartment, you will get a minute differencs, I think Jake might have said like up to 5HPs or sumtin. The trick if you want a real noticable difference is to add a watery mist or fog into the intake. If you ever drive on a really misty evening, you will get what I mean. The engine seems to pack more energy. If the air intake is warm and foggy full of water vapor, then you will get a diffrence you will feel. The water vapour must not condensate on its way into the engine though, this will add droplets of water into your air/fuel mixture. It would be cool to adapt a water evaporator on the exhaust pipes some how and then have conduits that plumb directly into the intake above the carb/throttle body. Since water vapor rises, the mist could find it's way into the intake easily. It could also be designed so that any condensation could drip right back down to the evaporator again. Crap I might be onto something here! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[jd74914]

Water injection is evil, don't try it unless you are running extreme boost and can/t have good enough intercoolers. The water will condense on the way into the cylinders if the air temp isn't really high, and that would be really bad.

While water is a good cooling medium don't add it to engine air. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Cevan]

What about simply rerouting the air intake pipe coming off the airbox to one of the side vents on either side of the engine grill? I'm going to try this. Seems to me you'd reduce the temperature of the air entering the motor by at least 60-70 degrees. I will report back with photos and full documentation.

[Joe Ricard]

When the engine is running the air on top of the engine is cold.
because the cooling fan is sucking all the air and blowing it onto the heads and cylinders.

[Dave_Darling]

What about simply rerouting the air intake pipe coming off the airbox to one of the side vents on either side of the engine grill? I'm going to try this. Seems to me you'd reduce the temperature of the air entering the motor by at least 60-70 degrees. I will report back with photos and full documentation.

Demick did this, and reported significantly cooler air going into the intake. He also reported a "seat of the pants" improvement in power.

BTW, getting your induction air from low down on the car is not so good... If you ever drive through a puddle! It's called "hydro lock", and it can break your crank and bend your rods when it happens at speed....

--DD

[Maltese Falcon]

A downpour of rain onto the cone air filter is also another sure way to hydrolock the type 4. We offer a stainless steel rain shield for this purpose. An idea kinda like the weber triple- throat rain shields put onto the 9146s. Our cai (cold air intake) that we sell for the BMW crowd is 18" up off the ground, inside the front bumper. It draws its air thru an indirect path, aiding in the deflection of H2o. We still suggest this intake to be used in "Dry land areas", so most custr's use the short ram (winter) and add the cai in the summer.
BMW has already had '07 M5s hydrolocked just breathing thru the oe front grille intakes!
Marty

[nein14]

Turbo engines benefit even more from the cone filter. These engines crave massive doses of cfm airflow when spooling up boost. The technically managed engines cool the compacted/heated boost air with efficient intercoolers...bringing denser air to the cylinders.
Case in point: the new BMW 335i twin turbo inline 6, makes good power right from the dealer . Our short-ram style cone filter makes +12.89 RWHP over stock, and our cold air attachment yields a few more.
These BMW owners are still in denial that we could build a better air filter system than their Munich engineers.
Again, almost +13 RWHP for a small investment. Not to mention a cleanable/ re-useable filter, excellent throttle response and nicer engine sounds.
Marty

Marty
I tried to find the Cone filter only on your website, on luck. How much is just the cone filter?