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> battery relocation, front trunk, or....
crash914
post Dec 29 2003, 03:44 PM
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Ok, I am going to relocate the battery. Should I cut out my battery tray and use it as the mounting plate in the front trunk?

( I got a new welder so this should be fun!!)

Has anybody then ran the positive cable back to the stock location? I have a kill switch there, so I thought it should stay.

The longest battery cables that I saw are 4 gage, 78 inches. Too short? Welding cable?

This should get me about 30 # on my right front wheel, side to side weights are equal, cross weights are off by a little, with the right front wheel the lightest.

This is for a minimal street/maximum track car...

Thanks, herb
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smrz914
post Dec 29 2003, 04:25 PM
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Where do you run the cables. I was thinking (for me at least) to use the plastic tubes that use to go to the charcol canister, but I think they are to small.
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Gint
post Dec 29 2003, 05:28 PM
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I've known people that have used welding cables with no issues. I have heard though IIRC (and I can't remember what I had for lunch yesterday), that it's not a good idea. Something about the size of the conductors within the cable. I'm sure we'll hear more about that as this thread progresses.
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ss6
post Dec 29 2003, 07:24 PM
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You can use welding cable, but yer gonna pay for the privilege. Nothing special about welding cable other than it's made to be more flexible than most other wire, and the insulation tougher to withstand constant use. Why not just buy some battery cable from your local FLAPs? I relocated my batt to the front trunk, and used about 15 ft of #2, though #4 is probably just fine. Ran it along the center tunnel pass side.

If I had it to do over again, I probably wouldn't. The rain issues can be solved with a plastic bag over the top of the battery, and I doubt I'll ever flog the car hard enough to notice the slight difference in center of gravity. I'd probably make a bigger difference by losing 10 lbs...
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ChrisReale
post Dec 29 2003, 07:38 PM
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Why relocate your battery?
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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 07:48 PM
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Herb,

I purchased a Painless wiring kit that provided more than enough wire to relocate battery to front trunk and provide power to starter.

For a cleaner appearance, I purchased two bulkhead connectors to keep cables out of view. One is installed in front trunk near battery to transfer power through front trunk/fuel tank bulkhead. The second one transfers power through bulkhead where a stock 6 cyl. oil tank would mount.

Positive wire is run through first bulkhead and under fuel tank to defrost opening (into cabin area). Comes out right above drivers side radio speaker and through long. to heater opening in engine bay. From there I snaked positive cable into area where stock 6 cyl. oil tank would mount and connected to second bulkhead connector.

This provides power to engine bay and you can do what you want from here. I ran a cable direct to starter and also connected remaining positive leads to this point.

I'll enclose some pics and hopefully clarify what I "tried" to explain : )

First pic is of battery installation. I used a tray provided by Renegade Hybrids that bolts directly to floor. You could also weld your stock tray here.

John


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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 07:50 PM
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asdf

I failed to mention that ground is just a short piece of one foot long cable (also provided with Painless kit) from battery to bolt installed in forward bulkhead.


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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 07:51 PM
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Close up of forward bulkhead connector:


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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 07:53 PM
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Sorry but no pics available of positive cable under fuel tank or cabin........it's all out of view now. This is rear bulkhead connector. I choose drivers side but you go to either side with the same amount of effort.


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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 07:56 PM
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another shot of rear bulkhead connector


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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 08:00 PM
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previous pic is where power feeds rear of car with everying requiring power except starter. Attached pic shows large red wire routed from engine/starter.........disconnected end mounts to rear bulkhead connector.


Note: Painless wiring kit included all positive and neg. wire needed, heatshrink material and some (4?) brass end connectors. I had to come up with several more brass connectors as well as both bulkhead connectors (FLAPS).

John


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nealnorlack
post Dec 29 2003, 08:01 PM
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Hi,
My 73 2.2 is used only on the street but I wanted to relocate my battery to the front trunk anyway. I pulled out the plastic tubes for the charcoal cannister and routed the cable through the same grommets. I used #2 cable and it works great. I don't know if it has improved the way the car handles, I just wanted to do something different with it.
Cheers, Elliot
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Gint
post Dec 29 2003, 08:41 PM
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I hate to hijack a thread...

John2kx,

You found those chassis lugs/insulators at a FLAPS? Anymore details? And what kind of kit did you purchase from Painless? Full kit? Details? I remember seeing you car on Pelican when you were starting or mid-project. It appears as if you've dome an especially nice job on everything. Do you have a web page or something with ALL of you pics of the build? I would LOVE to see them all.
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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 08:55 PM
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Gint,

I ordered the wiring kit through Jeggs or Summit. Nothing fancy.......just choose the Painless brand through word of mouth. It was listed as a rear trunk battery location kit.......cost was about $50. I can look it up if you need more detail. From what I remember, there weren't many choices.

I found the bulkhead connectors and addition brass lugs at my local hotrod shop. A step above a auto parts store. I think I spent about $5-8 on these total. Again, if you can't find these, let me know and I'll get more information or send you what you need.

Sorry, but I don't have a website. It's all I can do to get around the BBS. I've had many requests for pics from guys all over the place. Maybe I'll get better organized and post my entire build here. It sure would save me alot of time as apposed to sending pics to individuals. I would have given my right nut to have pics during the build. Would have saved a trip for two to Vegas!

John
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John2kx
post Dec 29 2003, 09:07 PM
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Gint,

Just so happened to have a catalog handy.

Painless battery cable mounting kit #764-40100 $53.99 through Jeggs.

Similar but heavier duty bulkhead connectors: "through panel connectors" #555-10317 $9.99 ea.

Billet aluminum battery holder: not what I used but available at Jeggs, for Optima battery, #555-10250 at $119.99 ea.. I believe I paid $100 for similar piece (but better looking IMHO) from RH.

John
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914rick
post Dec 29 2003, 09:11 PM
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Has anyone tried mounting 2, 6 volt bataries in the rear trunk. I was thinking of 2, 6 volt Optima battaries because they are about half the size (height) of the 12 volt. If you mounted them side by side, in the rear trunk, I don't think that there would be a clearance problem with storing the top. Any thoughts? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Rick
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SirAndy
post Dec 29 2003, 09:21 PM
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QUOTE(914rick @ Dec 29 2003, 07:11 PM)
I was thinking of 2, 6 volt Optima battaries because they are about half the size (height) of the 12 volt.

what's the Amp on those? anything close to the 12V?

Andy
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boxstr
post Dec 29 2003, 09:57 PM
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I have two Optima six volt batteries in my front trunk.......of my 73 911.
For Painless try http://www.painlessperformance.com, also www.HotronicsProducts.com or www.ezwiring.com
CCLINSPAGHETTIHEAVEN
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campbellcj
post Dec 30 2003, 12:56 AM
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Yikes...I was about to ask about the billet battery hold-down bracket. I need an "metal strap" setup to be officially legal (POC). I think I'll stick with the el-cheapo strip of aluminum and all-thread approach I was planning before I saw your cool pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Then again, instead of a fancy optima bracket, maybe I should spend the dough on a lightweight dry-cell race battery (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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ChrisReale
post Dec 30 2003, 01:04 AM
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I'll ask again, why move the battery? Unless your shit is totally f'up, what do you plan on gaining by moving it?
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