Eliminating the "Ebrake Goose' or..., Relocating ebrake handle? Options

[rascobo]

Does anyone know the parts and procedure necessary to relocate the ebrake lever to between the seats as is done in some 914 GTs' and race cars? I have a nice set of 'vette leather seats, that with their stock mounts, motors and hardware removed fit perfectly except that the ebrake handle(somewhat) and the cable balancer and cover (definitely) are in the way. I'd like the easier access to the ebrake as well (and let's not forget eliminating the 'goose' factor).

I'll post some pics of my '73 4.3L widebodied conversion soon. I just need to figure out how to take a photo with my new digital 'Do Everthing' camera, somewhere in the manual between how it cooks popcorn and how to watch the finals of the 'World Team Chess' championships in the view finder) and wait for the rain to let up here in Portland..... uh, lets change that 'soon' to eventually.
M.C.&H.N.Y.!

[Eric_Shea]

I think it would be "fab-as-you-go". That's what it looks like the factory did.

I was going to go this route until I stumbled on my 914-6/GT calipers. I have the handbrake and the rear control arms with the 911 brake assemblies all ready to go. Now I'm going back to the basic stock layout.

If you havent found Armando's site, do so. Google Armando 914-6/GT and you'll find more photos of this type of stuff than imaginable. I'll post a couple I used here with full credit and thanks to Armando. He is Mr. GT. (some of these pics are Jon Lowe's I believe, thanks Jon for your hard work documenting GT's over the years):

Here's a look at the factory fab work... not what I'd call purdy:



The cables, which I would bet are straight 911 cables:



Another cable shot:



Inside the car:



So... bottom line. Fab the mounting points inside the tub. I would imagine it would take a bit if fabbing of some tubes for the firewall. Get a pair of 911 cables and then work on getting the 914 ends on there (if you're staying with the 914 brakes).

[Eric_Shea]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) BTW

[Wilhelm]

and wait for the rain to let up here in Portland..... uh, lets change that 'soon' to eventually.
M.C.&H.N.Y.!

3" of rain in Newport, OR the last 24 hours. You might be better served building an ark. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[rascobo]

Thanks Eric, just what I was lookinng for. I'm going to give Wilheim's advice some serious thoughgt Anyone got an idea how to fit pontoons on a teener ?

[Jeff Hail]

Does anyone know the parts and procedure necessary to relocate the ebrake lever to between the seats as is done in some 914 GTs' and race cars? I have a nice set of 'vette leather seats, that with their stock mounts, motors and hardware removed fit perfectly except that the ebrake handle(somewhat) and the cable balancer and cover (definitely) are in the way. I'd like the easier access to the ebrake as well (and let's not forget eliminating the 'goose' factor).

I'll post some pics of my '73 4.3L widebodied conversion soon. I just need to figure out how to take a photo with my new digital 'Do Everthing' camera, somewhere in the manual between how it cooks popcorn and how to watch the finals of the 'World Team Chess' championships in the view finder) and wait for the rain to let up here in Portland..... uh, lets change that 'soon' to eventually.
M.C.&H.N.Y.!

I am relocating the e brake handle on my build to the center tunnel.
Fairly simple to do using oem parts. I am using a 1999 996 handle assembly.
I have removed the cable junction block from the 996 leaving the adjustable rod.
The 996 unit is also wired like the 914 with a ground contact switch.

Since I am doing extensive firewall modification's for a six I will install conduits thru the wall to guide the cable housings. The cables will longer use the firewall tubes to resist pull presure.

Using the original center pull "wings" from the 914 ebrake I will attach it to the 996 unit (see picture example). The short 914 cable on the interior will be eliminated. The wing is backwards in the picture because it is dripping with pb blaster.

I will fab a base plate to sit on top of the tunnel. I will also use 2 right side (long ones) 914 cables of equal length so the hooks on the wing match the 914 cable loop ends. This allow's retaining the 914 rear calipers.

Attached to the base plate I need to fab will be 2 sleeves that locate the cable housing ends and adjustments can be done from inside the car. I do not want to slice up the tunnel so adding a base plate was the next logical solution. The tunnel steel is weak to constantly have angular stress's placed on it by adding a lever with a cut out area.

Hard to picture so hope the diagram helps.

[rascobo]

I liiiike it! Simple, strong, and clean. Hope it is as straight forward as it looks. Thanks for sharing it, I almost decided against the relocation if it involved so much cutting to, and inclusion of even more hardware into the already cramped tunnel. Unfortunately, while adding antifreeze last night, found 1/2 cup of oil in the overflow tank, but no coolant in oil (must of been naughty this year). Until I resolve this issue I might be delayed in brake project, but would liked to be appraised of Your progress. I just might get my new seats installed after all. Thanks for sharing your plans.


if 2 heads are better than 1, then 7,634 heads must be better than 3718. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

Hope it is as straight forward as it looks.

Nothing is as straight forward as Jeff makes it look!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

[dflesburg]

y'all are high.

[rascobo]

no we're not, those damned bats ate our lunch again!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)