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> Dropping the engine for the first time
funboy30189
post Feb 19 2008, 05:31 PM
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Im gonna try and drop the engine out of the car this week. It will be my first time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) , what special tools are required that will make it easier? beside having someone else do it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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PeeGreen 914
post Feb 19 2008, 05:37 PM
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol
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No "special tools" are required. Just make sure you disconect everything. If you are using a lift I like get everything up top disconected then do the bottom. Then lower the car down and drop the engine. Be sure to watch the ears and the bulkhead as you can bend things in a bad way.
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LetoAtreides
post Feb 19 2008, 06:21 PM
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You'll need an 8mm 12-point drive bit to undo the CV joints
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swl
post Feb 19 2008, 06:24 PM
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really pretty easy. Follow haynes and you're golden. Easy to forget the tranny ground strap. Also, if you original FI the fuel rails can catch on the sides. Go really slow until you have them clear.

Oh - and don't drop it - lower it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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jimkelly
post Feb 19 2008, 07:00 PM
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http://www.autoatlanta.com/tech/power_remov.html

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Life/tech_articles.html

my local napa had these on the shelf - jim

some people lower engine from car = dangerous

some people raise car from engine on a pallet = seems better to me

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QUOTE(LetoAtreides @ Feb 19 2008, 04:21 PM) *

You'll need an 8mm 12-point drive bit to undo the CV joints
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Pat Garvey
post Feb 19 2008, 07:07 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Feb 19 2008, 08:00 PM) *

http://www.autoatlanta.com/tech/power_remov.html

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Life/tech_articles.html

my local napa had these on the shelf - jim

some people lower engine from car = dangerous

some people raise car from engine on a pallet = seems better to me

-

QUOTE(LetoAtreides @ Feb 19 2008, 04:21 PM) *

You'll need an 8mm 12-point drive bit to undo the CV joints


Well, I've lowered my motr from the car four times now, with zero probelms. But, before the first time I built a creeper-like thing to hold the motor & trans. It's about 4 feet long, with casters & a center mount for the jack. Never a problem.
Pat

Oh, BTW, wrap those CV joints in plastic bags, to keep any oxidation away from the mounting areas.
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swl
post Feb 19 2008, 08:45 PM
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I've not done the 'raise the car' thing but if you are working alone it makes really good sense. I've come really close to loosing control of an engine even with a helper because you have such a small balance point if you are using a jack. The center of gravity is right where the engine and transmission meet - not much flat stuff there. I've been looking at the tranny adapters for jacks - that looks like a better way of lowering the engine than just a standard jack pad.
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McMark
post Feb 19 2008, 08:46 PM
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There is a tech article on it ON THIS SITE! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Click 914 Info at the top of this page and then click Tech Articles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

QUICK LINK
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jimkelly
post Feb 19 2008, 08:50 PM
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TECH ARTICLE -- ON THIS SITE -- no way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

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QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 19 2008, 06:46 PM) *

There is a tech article on it ON THIS SITE! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Click 914 Info at the top of this page and then click Tech Articles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

QUICK LINK
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Joe Owensby
post Feb 19 2008, 09:09 PM
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I have used both the lower the transmission technique and also the "raise the car" technique. I prefer the raising the car. I pretty much used all the steps in Mark's article until it gets time to remove the engine. I bought a $15.00 furniture dolly at Home Depot. I placed it below the engine and then took off the rear wheels. Lowered the car until the engine bottom was about 1/4 inch above the dolly. At this point, the brake shields were just above the garage floor. I then loosened the motor mounts and transmission mounts and in the process it lowered the motor the final bit. . I had a floor jack on each side of the car along with a thick board as a safety measure. I then slowly raised the car up and left the engine on the dolly. No balancing was required. The engine was on the dolly and was easy to re-locate as needed. Installation was the reverse of this.
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toon1
post Feb 19 2008, 10:24 PM
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I used a $49 motorcycle jack from H.F this w/e to put my engine in. Worked good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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computers4kids
post Feb 19 2008, 10:46 PM
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QUOTE(toon1 @ Feb 19 2008, 08:24 PM) *

I used a $49 motorcycle jack from H.F this w/e to put my engine in. Worked good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


The motorcycle jack from harbor freight is the ticket. Place a board across the two lift arms. The trans tail will sit nicely on the back of the lift. Jack the car up and raise the lift to meet the engine...disconect everything and then lower the lift and roll it out from under the car. Personally have pulled 6 motors this way by myself.

It's also nice because you can raise the jack back-up with the motor on it to ease working on it and rolling it around.



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SirAndy
post Feb 19 2008, 10:49 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Feb 19 2008, 06:50 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 19 2008, 06:46 PM) *

There is a tech article on it ON THIS SITE! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Click 914 Info at the top of this page and then click Tech Articles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

QUICK LINK


TECH ARTICLE -- ON THIS SITE -- no way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



oh, and i'm not sure if i said that already, so here it is: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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JeffBowlsby
post Feb 20 2008, 02:08 AM
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To me, the safest and easiest way, short of having access to a car lift with a wide bay is to elevate the car and drop the drivetrain out the bottom, while the chassis is secure. The single support balancing on a jack could easily lose balance and drop, especially when rolling the drivetrain on a jack. Drop it and you will break something expensive.

Use threaded rods with big wing nuts to replace the two bolts on the ends of the engine bar to lower the drivetrain onto a furniture dolly. The car chassis is always solid and the threaded rods control the up/down action. I cannot picture how a jack could be used centered under the drivetrain, to lower it onto a dolly also centered under th drivetrain anyway..the jack and dolly conflict. Use a jack only at the trans for 3-point support of the drivetrain as it is being lowered/raised.
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SGB
post Feb 20 2008, 06:19 AM
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Best tool is an extra human or two to say "hey stop!"
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 20 2008, 07:25 AM
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BTW, the 12-point tool for the CV joints is a "triple square" (size M8), not just an Allen wrench. A VW Bug shop will have them on hand, as their CVs use the same bolts as ours. So will a Porsche shop, for that matter.

--DD
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Cevan
post Feb 20 2008, 07:59 AM
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My two cents as a two time solo engine remover, two big floor jacks (one for each side) makes the job easy. I found that lowering the car/engine down onto a dolly and then lifting the car out of the way was simple.

I also removed the nuts holding the intake tubes to the heads and put them towards the middle of the engine.
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funboy30189
post Feb 20 2008, 07:09 PM
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what is the "special " 12 tool used to take the cv joints off. is this a torx, or something i could pickup at a autozone?
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McMark
post Feb 20 2008, 07:33 PM
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See Dave's post just above this...
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jimkelly
post Feb 20 2008, 07:53 PM
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12 point with hex shaft for ratchet to remove cv bolts.

check for it at Napa


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