Help rear wheel bearing whine |
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Help rear wheel bearing whine |
js2bugu |
Mar 17 2008, 02:41 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 6 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Concord,Ca Member No.: 2,977 |
I just noticed a Rear bearing whine drivers side when I turn the wheel right.
Question is how long can I run with this bearing 10 miles, 1000 miles? Any advice would be great. Thanks Adam |
Dr. Roger |
Mar 17 2008, 02:46 PM
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#2
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
I just noticed a Rear bearing whine drivers side when I turn the wheel right. Question is how long can I run with this bearing 10 miles, 1000 miles? Any advice would be great. Thanks Adam Let's put it this way... do you really want to risk trashing your swing arm by running a bad bearing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Plus they are cheap. Why run a bad bearing? |
hcdmueller |
Mar 17 2008, 02:48 PM
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#3
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????????????? Group: Members Posts: 542 Joined: 4-February 06 From: UK Member No.: 5,527 Region Association: England |
Mine has been going for the past 3 to 400 miles. It started on a road trip last summer and I wasn't going to stop unless it started getting really loud. I did cut back on the driving after I got back from the trip. I am going to replace it before I reinstall the engine this month.
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js2bugu |
Mar 17 2008, 02:49 PM
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#4
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 6 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Concord,Ca Member No.: 2,977 |
Done Deal Bearing on order.
Thanks! |
brant |
Mar 17 2008, 03:09 PM
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#5
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,640 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
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js2bugu |
Mar 17 2008, 05:03 PM
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#6
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 6 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Concord,Ca Member No.: 2,977 |
Ordered from AA $50
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davesclassicvws |
Mar 17 2008, 06:17 PM
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#7
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davesclassicvws Group: Members Posts: 82 Joined: 5-October 05 From: Camas,Wa Member No.: 4,917 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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SLITS |
Mar 17 2008, 08:11 PM
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#8
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Ordered from AA $50 How hard are these to replace? Garage mechanic stuff or professional only? I think I have a noisy one also. If you don't have the right tools you will trash it on installation. You have to pull the hub thru it while supporting the back of the bearing (inner race). Do a search ... there have been many threads about homemade tools, etc for installation. The removal is easier .... ya just beat the crap outta it. Usually, the bearing comes apart, leaving the outer race in place which can be pounded out using a drift, chisel or ?. |
MarkV |
Mar 17 2008, 08:36 PM
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#9
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Fear the Jack Stands Group: Members Posts: 1,493 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Sunny Tucson, AZ Member No.: 154 Region Association: None |
It been a while since I changed mine. The hard part was getting the castle nut off the stub axle and getting the old bearing race out. An air hammer works to get the race out. I put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and it went back together pretty easy.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) |
Demick |
Mar 17 2008, 09:08 PM
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#10
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Ernie made me do it! Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,312 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Pleasanton, CA Member No.: 257 |
Yup. Freeze the bearing overnight. Heat the hub with a torch to get it hot, and the bearing will slide right in.
Getting the old one out - that's another story. Can be fairly easy, can be really really really hard. Depends on the car. Demick |
roadster fan |
Mar 17 2008, 11:04 PM
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#11
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Project Frankenstein !!!!!!!! Group: Members Posts: 1,009 Joined: 24-November 05 From: Aptos, CA Member No.: 5,184 Region Association: Northern California |
Posted this the last time this came up. Best price around, fast shipping.
rear bearing I made a tool with all thread and some plumbing parts to remove and replace the bearings. I will try and post a pic tomorrow, but there are plenty of threads with similiar homebuilt tools. As far as the castle nut, with a long enough lever you can move the world! Jim |
Cire |
Apr 6 2009, 01:11 PM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 279 Joined: 12-March 09 From: Tucson, Arizona Member No.: 10,155 Region Association: None |
It been a while since I changed mine. The hard part was getting the castle nut off the stub axle and getting the old bearing race out. An air hammer works to get the race out. I put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and it went back together pretty easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) I got my brakes off. Got the rotor off. Got the castle nut off. How does the next piece come off? Does the axle have to come off? Does the stub axle need to be pulled out? = ) Got any more pictures. I am really good with pictures. = ) Thanks. Eric |
Cap'n Krusty |
Apr 6 2009, 02:07 PM
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#13
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Yes, the stub axle has to come out. Yes, the hub has to come out. Spray the stub axle as best you can with a good penetrant. It goes out inward. DO NOT hammer on it unless the nut is in place to protect the threads! The hub knocks out from the back, and it can be pretty reluctant to move. It usually brings the outside inner race with it. You then remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing cover in place. After that, you knock the bearing out. The inner side inner race should still be there, and that's what you hit using a large drift...... The new bearing should be drawn in with some sort of screw device. If you can't do that, you MUST hit ONLY the outer race! Once it's in, reinstall the bearing cover. After that, you draw the hub in using a screw device, and applying pressure on both the hub and THE INNER RACE of the bearing. ONLY the INNER RACE!. If you don't, or if you try to pound it together, you'll most likely destroy your new bearing. If you've paid attention, you'll probably do just fine. Good luck! The Cap'n
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