4x100 wheels on my 914?, New guy - needs some help... Options

[splashfx]

Hi everyone,

I bought my 914 (first and only, so far) last summer. I have been looking at buying a set of wheels and all of the styles available for the 4x130 bolt pattern seem so dated, so I'm considering drilling the hubs/rotors for 4x100 to accept a more modern wheel style.

Has anyone done this? If so, what type of wheel did you use - I'd love to see examples of 4x100 wheels on the 914. Also, what offset, width, etc. can you run on a stock-fendered 914?

If this has been covered on the forums elsewhere I appologize. I did a search and found a couple of vague references to 4x100 wheels.

TIA

Mueller has 4x100's on his car. he will chime in soon.

[nebreitling]

this brings up the new rotors that are in development -- any news on that?

[Mueller]

Yep, I've done it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif)

16x7 Konig rims with 205/45/16's....40mm offset
Re-drilled front stock /4 hubs and re-drilled rear flanges....press in studs. 7's are about the widest rim and 205's are about the widest tire under a bone stock fender....PITA, not sure if I'd recommend it, the front hubs need additional machining and spacers since the wheels sit too far inboard (perfect in the rear)

Dave Cawdrey (Korijo) is or was selling his 4x100 rims and tires along with the re-drilled hubs/flanges a while back, not too sure if they sold or not. A VW/Porsche shop in Washinton(?) can do the re-drilling/mod's for I think about $400 total.

this brings up the new rotors that are in development -- any news on that?

I'm still waiting for them...I guess the shop is doing Brad a favour so it's not a high prioity to get them whipped out........I gave the shop the raw materials (2 15lb billets at 4 bucks a pound.......out of my pocket..ouch)



(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1050513054.jpg)

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[splashfx]

Thanks, Mueller! I really like your car (especially the wheels) - very nice.

Looking forward to ditching the Rivieras. Hoping to find something lighter and a bit more stylish.

[Korijo]

so I'm considering drilling the hubs/rotors for 4x100 to accept a more modern wheel style.

I dont understand, splashfx... You just bought my 4x100 setup. No drilling required, cuz its already done !! Hubs and rotors included in the price.

I had 16x7's 40mm offset, too. 205/50's with 5/16" spacers (you can have my 2, but you need 2 more). The wheels are up for grabs, too. See VWvortex Classifieds

[splashfx]

I was primarily interested in what types of wheels (sizes, offsets) are needed and wanted to see what other people have on thier cars.

Like the BBS-replica style wheels - they look very nice! I might be interested - going to do a little shopping and see if I can find a wheel I like better.

[Mueller]

when i ordered my rims from Tire Rack, I asked for rims to fit an '84 GTI VW Golf.....Mazda Miata, and Honda fitments should be very close as well. What will vary, is the hole in the rim for the hubcentric feature and possibly, the hole size for the studs.

[eeyore]

After reading similar thread on Pelican Parts, I toddled off to the garage and checked my rear hubs to see what a 4x100 pattern would look like. The 100mm circle puts the studs awfully close to the center hole of the brake rotor, reducing the mating surface between wheel and rotor. I shelved the idea of 4x100s after that. Am I being too cautious?

[SirAndy]

Am I being too cautious?

IMHO no, you're not ...

i'd rather convert to 5 lug if i were you (splashfx)
Andy

[Demick]

After reading similar thread on Pelican Parts, I toddled off to the garage and checked my rear hubs to see what a 4x100 pattern would look like. The 100mm circle puts the studs awfully close to the center hole of the brake rotor, reducing the mating surface between wheel and rotor. I shelved the idea of 4x100s after that. Am I being too cautious?

I agree fully. I would never redrill 4x100 matched up with the same pattern as the 4x130. Not enough material left. You need to rotate the patterns with respect to one another. Problem is, that if you rotate them 45 degrees (or anywhere near 45), you will cut right through the stiffening ribs on the back side. I know that Mike has done the redrill thing - I'm not sure where he placed the new stud pattern with respect to the old.

Demick

[splashfx]

Thanks for the warning! I don't want something that won't stand the strain of some spirited driving.

So, if I decide to go with 5 lug - how much is involved in this change? I have read that I will need new rear axles, and that some people use 911 front suspension...

Slightly OT: Also, what type of brake upgrades do you recomend? I just bought a 19mm master cylinder and braided brake lines, and I was considering doing a BMW upgrade - once again this is all new to me, so I'm looking for as much info as I can get. I read an article in Grassroots Motorsports about thier brake upgrade - seemed fairly informative and I thought I would go that route... Also, any opinion on cryogenicly frozen rotors?

And even more OT: Also, I understand that the 914 has torsion bar suspension. What type of upgrades can be done? I haven't ever worked on a car with torsion bars - and don't really know what to expect... Can it be changed to coil-overs? If so, is it worth the effort?

[Dave_Darling]

Five-lug conversion:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9..._conversion.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...conversion2.htm

The brakes are vastly different from the four-cylinder stuff; the BMW ones won't fit the five-lug rotors and are inferior to the 911 brakes that do fit.

The BMW bits aren't bad on their own, but going five-lug makes them irrelevant.

The 19mm MC and an adjustable proportioning valve seem to make good companions to both the five-lug 911 brakes or the BMW brakes.

Frozen rotors aren't worth it IMHO, but I'm not sold on cryo treatment anyway. I know people who claim shorter stopping distances, longer rotor life, longer pad life, and just about everything but free blowjobs from cryo'd rotors--and I also know people who have tried them and found that there was zero difference from the plain non-cryo'd rotors.

Suspension: Bigger torsion bars in front, stiffer springs in the rear, bigger sway bars all around. Coil-over conversions on the front are possible but only worth it if you need more spring rate than you can get from torsion bars that fit in the A-arms. Significant reinforcement of the shock tower is required.

Check your favorite parts place for suspension upgrade parts. My favorite is Pelican Parts, for obvious reasons.

--DD