Bunch of Newbie owner questions, what's safe to put floor jack on? Options

[Doug73/2.0]

Ok...so the projects begins. A bunch of Newbie questions.
1) Whats is a safe spot to jack the rear and to jack the front? The previous owner put the floor Jack right under the motor? is this safe. Once up, what is the best spot to put the jack stands. I've never owned a car without a frame..The floor under the drivers seat is toast, otherwise everything looks solid or already replaced Thanks

2) Car has been parked ten years, so I'm going to lift the tank out tonight. Question, is there a drain? The filler pipe neck is a giant rust blob..otherwise the tank looks fine...should this scare me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ? Once out what should I do with the tank? Friends say just put some new gas swiss it around and re drain? I was woundering, do garges "flush" a tank like they do a radiator?

3) as long as I've got the tank out, should I replace the fuel lines? they look ok but I'm surprised to see plastic lines back by the engine?. Do you need flexible lines or can I just bend the new tubing to the desired shape. I.e are they using the plastic stuff to allow movement? With the tunnel covered, do you just slide the new lines thru and leave the old ones in place?

I pulled the plugs, squirted some oil in and manually pushed the car so at least I know the motor turns over, I just don't want the crap in the tank to get sucked into the injectors. If I leave the fuel lines in place for now, can I use compressed air to blow the old fuel out of the?
Thanks for the advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Doug

[tat2dphreak]

this may not be the "right" answers...

1) near the front and back of the floor pans there are round jack points... they work great for me... you can use the engine mount bar to jack it too... 6 1 way, 1/2 dozen the other...

2) there IS a fuel tank treatment... I think you can get it at a FLAPS.. I would fix any rust on it... you don't want the shit to get in your tank.


3) I would replace them... if they don't need them yet... they will.

[Doug73/2.0]

Thanks,
Saw you are in Richardson texas, I was out there to visit a company, Ocular, a while back. Nice area, no snow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Thanks for the advice Doug

[7391420]

if the Jack points are strong front and rear, use them (the round lifted areas at each corner) if you are not sure, how strong the jack points are, use wood blocks (I use an 8 inch square by one inch thick block. This way, you spread out the weight a bit... just be sure that your jack and the wood block are securely situated...

-I use the engine mount bar for jack stands in the rear.



-Adam

[davep]

The jack donuts at the corners of the pan are often toast. I used to jack on the engine bar of the 73 and later cars. The 72 and earlier cars have rubber centers at the ends of the engine bar that can tear. I like the A-arms at the front. The way I look at it is, if the car is reasonably solid, and the suspension supports the car the way it was designed, then sort of jacking near the wheels may be reasonably safe. Jacking on sprung components is not really recommended. It often depends on what parts you want to work on, and what parts of the body are solid. Sometimes I have used large boards to spread the weight.

The tank does not have a drain. It does have two, confusingly similar lines coming out. A rusting tank should be professionally refurbed by a shop that does tanks or rads. Make sure they know what they are doing. Replace the plastic lines if they are cracked or crazed. Sometimes they can be cut back to good material. They are not easy to replace in the body. If the original lines are still available, use them. If not, you have tough choices. You can't leave the old ones in there.

There is probably a tech article somewhere on doing the job. Like Pelican Parts website.

DaveP

[Doug73/2.0]

Thanks Adam, Hope to see you Saturday if you make it out to Burlington. I'm out in Groton...saying Boston was just easier for all the west coasters. Doug

[jom]

for tank restoration check out

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=316

I have used regular por 15 paint with great results, but have never used this stuff. If it works anything like their other products it should be good. since the tank is going to be out I would change the fuel lines. when you put it back together leave the lines at the bottom of the tank a little long so you can take it out again without that much trouble. I think i used a pelican parts tech article and everything worked out great.

[Doug73/2.0]

Dave..Thanks, thas is what I thought regarding the lines and the tank. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[sixerdon]

Doug,
Bring all your questions Saturday with a note book. You'll get most if not all your answers then.
If you have a lot of old gas in the tank, syphon first as much as you can. Then pull off the pan and slice the rubber lines off and drain in a big pan being careful not to try slicing the metal extensions. You won't be saving the old lines.
Don

[BGman]

I have used the POR product with great success. It is not a super-quick project if you follow ALL of the steps recommended by POR.....but I would. It was recommended to me to use as hot of water as possible for all prep work. My tank was in fairly good condition to begin with- it was kind of a "while you are there" project.
I have before and after pics if you want to see them.

[d7n7master]

All of what has been said - AND - use TWO jackstands on each jack point to be safe. One right next to the other - one holding the weight of the car and one very close to contacting the car. That way, if the earth moves (like in Kalifornia...) you should survive to enjoy your toy another day.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[7391420]

Doug,

I'll be there on saturday, look forward to meeting you, and swaping stories... BTW, I have a few extra (duplicate copies) haynes manuals and some other reference material, I'll bring it for you if I can dig it of my garrage!

-Adam