What up with my car, Doesn't run well Options

[keith]

Shitfuckdammit. Ran so - so up until Saturday morning before JP's meet.
Here's the car
74 2.0 I would guess around 100k
The car very original - the brake lines (which I replaced) and the shocks (which I have not) had a 1973 date on them. I don't believe the engine or any of the major components have been changed since it left the factory.
Here what I have done:
Replaced all vacuum lines
Plugs, wires, points fuel/air filters, temp sensor II, alt, voltage regulator, battery, cap and rotor and points.
Valve adjustment done about 500 miles ago.
Problem:
Hard to start. Kind of acts like it's got carbs when cold.
After starting it will idle at 700 rpm and threated to die. For the first couple minites you can hold a steady RPM with the throttle, say 1200 to 1800 and higher if you want.
After a couple of minutes it stumbles around this range. You just cant hold a steady RPM below 2000.
Engine will rev freely past this point and while driving seems to run well.
I've read about adusting the dwell then the timing in the manual. Do they even make a dwell meter anymore??
Any ideas welcome. Or free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) and pizza and use of my lift for anyone who can help.

TIA

Keith

[Bleyseng]

I would start with using a timing lite to set the timing at 27 degrees BTDC @3500rpms.
Check to see if the AAR valve is working when the engine is cold, it should be open and sucking air. In about 5 minutes the AAR should close with no vacuum on that hose.

If the AAR is stuck open or closed squirt PB Blaster in to in to free it up.

Geoff

[Mike D.]

Sense your running the points and condenser, Check the points plate inside the dist. and make sure the ground strap is in good shape. If not you should replace the points plate and at that point I'd just get a compufire ignition and throw out the points and condenser.
You should also check the trigger points. This is the part in the base of the distributer withthe plug on it. Make sure it is not too worn. This tells the computer when to fire the injecters.
Have you tried adjusting the nob on the top of the computer while the engine is idling? This adjusts the richness, but only at idle

Just a few things to look at in addition to the Aux. Air valve mentioned above

Have Fun
Mike D.

[mightyohm]

They make dwell gauges, check the dwell. Check the timing too.
Make sure you test it correctly for your engine, there are probably vacuum lines you need to disconnect on the distributor. That makes a huge difference.

[zehrschnell914]

We sure missed you at JP's. Sorry to hear about your dilemma. With regards to checking the dwell, I think I still have a dwell meter, but I will have to check. When you change the dwell (point gap), it changes your timing so you have to set your dwell and then adjust your timing. I'd be glad to come over and help if you need it (just pm me).

Mike Amundson

P.S. - I got rid of the silver rust bucket!

[keith]

Thanks for the offer Mike. I'll probally take you up on it. By the way; you've got mail.
I went through a ton of old posts and it seems like I'm going to throw a bunch of money at this thing. Everything is original so... shit. I just want to have it run good then sell it.

Keith