Psssst; Hey Buddy, Wanta see a picture of a naked relay? Options

[76-914]

Had a defective relay so I opened it up. Might be of interest or not.
First pic (top view) shows copper lead from #30 pin to solder terminal and just to the right of that is the attach point for the tensioning spring which keeps it in a normally open position with it's relationship to #30.
Next pic shows side view of contact points. The pin on the left is #87 and the pin on the right is#87a. Notice the double contacts and that it is currently in contact with #87a. One contactor point above and one below with the plate contactor (which #30 is soldered to) in between, moving between these 2 points. I guess that would make it a double throw switch of sorts. In it's non-energized state #30 contacts #87a. When energized the electro magnet pulls the contactor plate down and away, breaking contact with#87a and connecting to #87.
The 3rd pic is a side view of spring attach points and copper lead from #30 pin. Of the 3 front pins, the center pin is #30, the one to the right of it is the infamous "I ain't got no voltage here" #86 and of course the one on the left side is #86.
One last thing. The #85 & #86 pin positions are flip flopped on the relay pictured on pg. 161 (in the Hayne's "Keep Trying Manual") from those pictured on pg's 147 and 154. Really?

[Gint]

I never opened one up. Nice pics... thanks.

[jasons]

I made a tool out of an old relay, by jumping the pins. Its good when you want to run your fuel pump, test circuits, etc.

[charliew]

I used to work for NCR and we had a proof machine that had maybe a hundred relays similar to that for what was called relay logic. The ones we had had about 4 sets of contacts though. That relay looks to be repairable. The contacts on most relays usually have a condenser or diode somewhere in the circuit to keep the contacts from arcing when they open. If they arc they will burn eventually. Like the points in a distributor have a condenser. When you clean points if you file them usually you remove a thin gold or silver coating that keeps them from oxidizing. The least destructive thing to use is a points file which is a really smooth abrasive file or a sheet of typing paper or say some 400 grit wet or dry paper. At lot of times a relay failure is the plug in connection gets dirty or corroded or the female receptacle connections get spread out from being unplugged and replugged too much in troubleshooting.

[76-914]

Yes, it is repairable. In fact it was cleaned prior to photo's and was proven. It was rusty and not able to move when energized. I suggest that moisture was able to enter via the slots in the pins themselves coupled with a long period of non-use.