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> Floor tar restoration, To do or not to do
sixaddict
post Aug 11 2009, 12:21 PM
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Redoing a 74 conversion that could be street and/or track but for eventual sale.(i.e so its not really for me)
I am trying to decide if I want/need to replace floor tar. I have gotten both sides of this. One renowned restorer says it is a rust magnet......another says sound deadening is worthwhile. I am kind of falling in behind sound deadening although that is sales literature copy.
How about a bit of guidance on this. Feel these cars are noisy enough without removing the tar insulation. What say ya'll ??
THX
TOT
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sean_v8_914
post Aug 11 2009, 12:27 PM
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yes, its a rust trap, that is why you should remove it, treat teh rust, then install some modern Dynamat or Fatmat. modern sound deadening material seems to be at least twise as good as teh old stuff. you will be amazed at how silent your 914 will feel. dont forget to seal up that back window.
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Todd Enlund
post Aug 11 2009, 01:33 PM
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QUOTE(sixaddict @ Aug 11 2009, 10:21 AM) *

Redoing a 74 conversion that could be street and/or track but for eventual sale.(i.e so its not really for me)
I am trying to decide if I want/need to replace floor tar. I have gotten both sides of this. One renowned restorer says it is a rust magnet......another says sound deadening is worthwhile. I am kind of falling in behind sound deadening although that is sales literature copy.
How about a bit of guidance on this. Feel these cars are noisy enough without removing the tar insulation. What say ya'll ??
THX
TOT

Personally, I think that these cars will be cared for much better in their second lives than they were in their first. I wouldn't worry so much about the "rust magnet" aspect of the sound deadening. I'd look at what you want the car to be, and make the decision based on that.

Track car = no sound deadening
Street car = Dynamat
Full restoration = tar

I plan on initially eliminating the sound deadening, because I can always add it if I decide that I want it. I can't really see a 914 with no sound deadening being any worse than my Jeep with the top and doors off...
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pcar916
post Aug 11 2009, 01:49 PM
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Mine's all gone including the engine firewall stuff.

45 pounds lighter... that's a ~2 horsepower increase in a 2100lb car with 100hp.

Headers and SuperTrapps... it's about the driving, not the radio. I keep ear plugs, suntan lotion, and an extra pair of sunglasses in the glove box for sensitive folks.

Good manners demand it in the South (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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sixaddict
post Aug 11 2009, 01:55 PM
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All well stated. Truly believe the leaks won't be there because neither will the rain.
Any info on sources for dynamat although I will google. My track car has no sound deadening but really trying to make this one just a bit more civilized. All back to one thing; what do I want it to be.....I like Todd's 3 category breakdown.
TOT
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IronHillRestorations
post Aug 11 2009, 03:34 PM
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I've got some stuff called "brown bread" that I've used in several cars, and it seems to be good, the only issue is that it's foil faced, so you may want to paint it. Let me know if you are interested.
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charliew
post Aug 11 2009, 05:46 PM
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Street cars are much better with the best sound deadening you can afford. Tar is for the guys that think old is good. New technology is far ahead of tar. Maybe the dynamat type stuff and the foil backed insulation over it if you are sure it won't be getting water in it.

I did a 42 ford jeep, not mine another one for a friend and I tried to seal all the seams really well preparing it for the rains it would see and it's owner said it would never get wet inside so not to worry. The first parade it was in on Veterans Day it was the first vehicle and it rained for the whole parade.

Don't plan on keeping your car out of a sudden rain. If it leaks (I don't know how hard it is to waterproof a 914) try to make the inside waterproof. Try to make sure it dosen't leak. Or make it as good as possible and take it somewhere and have a commercial bedliner put in it. It will be adding more weight but it will be way better than tar sheets I'm sure. Maybe the bedliner and the insulating mat that is foil lined that could be removed and dried out. I have used several two part bedliners that you get at auto paint stores and gator guard seems to be ok but it takes more than you would think to get good coverage. I'm still not convinced it's as good as rhino liner or the other name brand liners that are put on commercially. I do know it will add a lot of weight.

I also have fieros and they also develop rear window leaks. The bodies just twist and torque and wiggle the rear windows loose so that is always a challenge to keep aware of. I learned on 4wd stuff that the stiffer the suspension the harder it is to keep front and mostly rear windows sealed.
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carr914
post Aug 11 2009, 10:34 PM
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Here is a sound deadening thread for you. Zach and I both used RaMMat. I was pleased and it was cheaper than the others.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...namat+vs+FaTMat

T.C.
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PanelBilly
post Aug 11 2009, 11:23 PM
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rhino liner or the other name brand liners that are put on commercially. I do know it will add a lot of weight.

Wrong, the stuff just doesn't weight that much.
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sixaddict
post Aug 12 2009, 07:49 AM
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Thanks guys....If you can think of a question, this site almost always can give you more info than you actually need. Amazing !
Ok now the final wrinkle....I was hoping to paint the stuff body color like the original tar but it looks like that is questionable and local Dynamat dealer said no....(Although I didn't get the sharpest knife in the drawer)
Any of these products accept paint and look "right" ?
Thanks all
TOT
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carr914
post Aug 12 2009, 07:57 AM
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The sound deadeners (DynaMat, FaTmat, RamMat), you can't paint over as they are foil-backed and are flexible. You would paint the floors, put down the deadeners, and then glue your carpets to that.

T.C.
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sixaddict
post Aug 12 2009, 09:44 AM
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I was afraid thats where I would end up....Thanks
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charliew
post Aug 13 2009, 12:05 AM
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You can buy white Gator Guard and add a color to it.
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