Vacuum advace from where?, I swear I serched but did't quite get what i was looking for Options

[914chic]

Alright i recently converted my 74 fuel injected to carbs and was wondering what you guys did for the vacuum advance on the distributor , the only way I can see doing this is tapping into the intake or what . Calling on you joe sharp if you got ant ideas?, or anyone , thanks alot.

[Joe Owensby]

There is some good information on distributors and vacuum advance at aircooled.net.

[pete914]

I'm running dual webers with a vacuum advance dizzy (stock) and I notice a significant difference in acceleration without the vacuum line hooked up (it lags). So, take it from me, it's worth it to hook it up.
also, it doesn't hook up to the manifold. there is a proper place on the carb where it meets up with the throttle plate.

Out of curiosity, what happened to your FI?

[Gint]

I'm running dual webers with a vacuum advance dizzy (stock) and I notice a significant difference in acceleration without the vacuum line hooked up (it lags). So, take it from me, it's worth it to hook it up.
also, it doesn't hook up to the manifold. there is a proper place on the carb where it meets up with the throttle plate.

Out of curiosity, what happened to your FI?

Except Pete it sounds like is that you have one of the rare carb'd 914's that have a carb tapped for vacuum. 95% of the Weber carb'd 914's out there do not have a port(s) tapped. So in your case it would make a differnece. Without a vacuum source though, as is the case here, it won't matter at all from a performance standpoint if the vacuum port on the canister on the dizzy is plugged or not.

With the exception of Rich's comment of course. I'd never heard that one before.

[r_towle]

With the exception of Rich's comment of course. I'd never heard that one before.

If you look at the vacuum can or vacuum POT setup it is hooked to the advance plates. If the POT is all working and you plug the end, you will add resistance to the advance plates.

When the plates advance they will push on the arm and this will push on the diaphram in the POT...this is a simple vacuum or worse a bubble on the outer section of the POT and just enough resistance that it will make it hard to get full advance...

Thus either leave it off, or remove the POT all together and that will also remove just one more moving part that the advance plates need to push against...

Less friction, faster advance.
Grease the plates...it 40 year old grease that behaves like glue now...

Rich

[SLITS]

Thus either leave it off, or remove the POT all together and that will also remove just one more moving part that the advance plates need to push against...

Rich

Centrigfugal advance (mechanical) moves the point cam in relation to the drive NOT the point plate.

Removing the POT will allow for movement of the point attachment plate and will really fuch up your ability to time the engine (you won't be able to). If you do remove it, you will have to fix the plate by running a screw thru it or soldering it in place.