The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions |
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The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions |
MrKona |
Dec 14 2007, 09:19 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 25-July 05 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 4,469 Region Association: None |
I talked about building up a 2.0 last winter, and now I'm finally going to do it. This is my first engine build, hence it'll be conservative and relatively stock. My only plan with the car is to have a nice, reliable, well constructed engine. I thought about a 2056, but I finally decided to stay with 94mm cylinders. I really don't want to have to tweak with FI or fiddle with cam selection right now. I've read that Jake's 9550 cam is excellent, but also that it produced dirty emissions. I'd like to keep this engine as clean as a type 4 can be. I'm also a little confused if Jake is even selling cams at the moment, so I've just decided to go with a stock grind.
My current engine is a PO rebuilt 1.8 with hydraulic lifters (with one that won't prime, sounds horrible, I can't wait to be done with them). Highlights: GA case Stock displacement (with new Euro spec pistons) Stock grind Webcam and with solid lifters (both new) For now, I'm going to cannibalize the rebuilt 1.8 heads from my current engine, unless I find a deal on decent rebuild 2.0 heads during the build. I would love to buy a pair of Raby heads, just can't swallow the extra two grand at the moment. L-jet fuel injection from my 1.8. (I have some issues to work out here, running really rich. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I have to check the fuel pressure - I'm thinking either AFM or pressure regulator as next areas to check). From what I've read on many threads here and other sites, the L-jet can handle up to a 2056 displacement. I'll keep this thread updated this winter as I work through this rebuild. I don't know how long a project this will be or how quickly I may get it done. Current progress: Jake Raby rebuild DVD - Check. Tom Wilson's book - Check. I've split the case and and planning on bringing the case, crank, and rods for reconditioning to Dan Hall's Machine Shop here in Portland. After reading various forums, this appears to be the Type IV specialist in this area. Brand new Euro-spec P/C set - Check! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So now for my first question: Regarding the existing cylinder studs, Tom Wilson writes, "Unless you're installing case savers, don't remove the cylinder studs from the case. Doing so has no purpose, but does wear the potentially troublesome case threads, takes time, and stresses the studs" (p. 76). In the assembly section, he states "If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks" (p. 120). I don't know the history of this case. I don't know if there was leakage at the head studs. Should I remove the studs, and reinstall with Permatex (after the case comes back from the machine shop, obviously) as a precaution to prevent potential leakage? Or should I just leave them be as is? Does it really put that much stress on the case to remove them, or is Wilson referring primarily to the Type I-III magnesium cases? I am leaning to toward remove and reinstall, as I strongly intend for this engine to be leak-free. Lastly, as I work through this process, I welcome and encourage comments. Please, if you see something I'm doing wrong, or have advice for me, give it to me! I can probably use it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Attached image(s) |
powdercoater |
Apr 19 2008, 12:41 PM
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#2
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Powder Coater Scott "The Purple Powder Coater" Group: Members Posts: 5 Joined: 17-April 08 From: Chatsworth CA, Los Angeles Member No.: 8,930 Region Association: Southern California |
For the tin if you want to have it factory looking then the choice of a semi gloss black is the color that is normally chosen. It looks clean without too much show. Some areas of note on the fan and shroud thare are places that need to be masked for the powder coating process. Powder coating will build between .003"-.005" this is thick enough to be considered an interference to bearing and torqued mating surfaces. The fan its self was a natural cast aluminum in most cases, but it is common to either coat them black or silver. Ther are some cool finishes that can replicate metals in semi gloss and matte finishes.
The ceramic coating if done correctly is the way to go, don't waste your time with the rattle can stuff. The correct look is to have them done in gray 1300F rated coating, gray looks killer if again you want a factory apperance. Other availabe colors are silver matte and polished, black matte or semi gloss, blue (nasty), white, copper and red (not too red). There are also coatings that will also go to 2000F but these are textured black, gray or blue only. Scott |
MrKona |
Apr 19 2008, 01:50 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 25-July 05 From: Santa Rosa, CA Member No.: 4,469 Region Association: None |
For the tin if you want to have it factory looking then the choice of a semi gloss black is the color that is normally chosen. It looks clean without too much show. Some areas of note on the fan and shroud thare are places that need to be masked for the powder coating process. Powder coating will build between .003"-.005" this is thick enough to be considered an interference to bearing and torqued mating surfaces. The fan its self was a natural cast aluminum in most cases, but it is common to either coat them black or silver. Ther are some cool finishes that can replicate metals in semi gloss and matte finishes. The ceramic coating if done correctly is the way to go, don't waste your time with the rattle can stuff. The correct look is to have them done in gray 1300F rated coating, gray looks killer if again you want a factory apperance. Other availabe colors are silver matte and polished, black matte or semi gloss, blue (nasty), white, copper and red (not too red). There are also coatings that will also go to 2000F but these are textured black, gray or blue only. Scott Scott, Thanks for the advice, this is really helpful. I'm imaging pretty close to what you describe... Satin or semi-gloss black for the tin, natural aluminum look for the fan and shroud, and probably gray for the stock exhaust pieces. I want this car to maintain a "classic" look. |
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