GAAAAHHH...any input on confirming possible leaking head to cylinder, cruises nice but sounds like leak under load/rough idle Options

[orange914]

heres the skinny, we just got the new 2056 installed at a local shop. it fired right up, good fuel & oil pressure, real responsive. it idles abit rough with an occasional pop thru throttle body at idle. shop owner took it for a ride and said it felt like it was a head gasket leaking. cruised good but under a load it pop,pop,popped. when we built it we checked the registers...flat. we lapped cylinders to head... check. we torqued heads... click. can possible overtorqueing create leak?

it's d-jet with a modified mps to match the engine. i'm abit frustated as it was kinda the red headed step child sitting in the corner. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) i know there will need to have further work to clean up hose routing. i also know the aux. valve is NOT plumbed in yet (only issue i KNOW of). could that cause the above "possible head gasket leak sound/feel" i think everything else is plumbed good. it almost acts like a vacuum leak, or crossed plug wires, they swear there are no intake vacuum ports open and they re-checked the firing order. any thoughts on a stuck injector or maybe an intake valve may be too tight. the occasional pop thru the intake at idle makes me think it could be one of those (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . maybe an intake is too tight (chromoly set at 0 backlash as jake says). the valves were re-set after 20 min. break in running 30 wht. brad penn break in oil then changed to b.p. 20x50

i guess the next step is confirm wire order, get aux. valve hooked in, run a compression test. then take to a shop with a sniffer.

after a year build and many challenges my poor son kenny is burnt out. i keep telling him he's almost there. oh yeah it does have a few minor push rod tube leaks, are there different size tubes (at the o-ring?) i know from many post the o-rings getting cut seems very common.

mike

[euro911]

i guess the next step is confirm wire order, get aux. valve hooked in, run a compression test. then take to a shop with a sniffer.

Check all the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, esp. at the INJECTORS
Verify there are NO VACUUM LEAKS, anywhere ... including hoses
Perform both, COMPRESSION and LEAK-DOWN tests ... that will tell if you have leaks in the combustion chamber


after a year build and many challenges my poor son kenny is burnt out. i keep telling him he's almost there. oh yeah it does have a few minor push rod tube leaks, are there different size tubes (at the o-ring?)

YES -
INNER (at case) 21.3mm ID
OUTER (at head) 25.5mm ID


i know from many post the o-rings getting cut seems very common.

Its a possibility

[Cap'n Krusty]

i guess the next step is confirm wire order, get aux. valve hooked in, run a compression test. then take to a shop with a sniffer.

Check all the ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, esp. at the INJECTORS
Verify there are NO VACUUM LEAKS, anywhere ... including hoses
Perform both, COMPRESSION and LEAK-DOWN tests ... that will tell if you have leaks in the combustion chamber


after a year build and many challenges my poor son kenny is burnt out. i keep telling him he's almost there. oh yeah it does have a few minor push rod tube leaks, are there different size tubes (at the o-ring?)

YES -
INNER (at case) 21.3mm ID
OUTER (at head) 25.5mm ID


i know from many post the o-rings getting cut seems very common.

[color=#3333FF]Its a possibility

Just so you know, there are TWO DIFFERENT outer pushrod tube seal o-rings, very early and everything else. The Cap'n