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Dr Evil |
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#1
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Send me your transmission! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23,041 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Howdy all,
I am wondering if any of you lives close to Chattanooga, TN and can do a PPI for me. Let me know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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Rusty |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 7,984 Joined: 24-December 02 From: North Alabama Member No.: 6 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Okay... I'm back. Two hours each way and about two hours with the car itself.
I started by using Jeff's new inspection sheet. That became a little awkward (I'll comment on the inspection sheet on that thread), so most of my notes are scribbled everywhere over several pages. I need to caviat my comments: I really looked hard at this car to ensure that there would be no surprises if Mike flew out to buy it. It's an objective look that captured every chip, bubble or scratch. I have nothing against the seller or the car. Also, I did NOT take an ice-pick to this car. I poked, prodded, tapped and knocked... but I did nothing invasive to this vehicle as I'm not the prospective buyer. The car is a repainted '74 2.0. Engine replaced. Seller does not own car (allegedly previously owned car, sold to a friend who gave it to her son. Son (owner) is in NC. Car is titled in NC. Seller has possession of clean NC title, but title is signed right now. 74 914-4, VIN: 4742906288. Chassis number: ~~~967? (Karmann tag in doorjam was oversprayed in blue) Original color code: ??? (told it was originally olympic blue) Odometer: 90835. Inop. Engine SN: GA004770 Car is currently (and allegedly always been) stored indoors. The car had not been cleaned or detailed to be shown. Overall, the condition of the car demonstrates years of deferred maintenance or quick fixes. Chassis has at least two repaints over the original olympic blue. A cobalt blue metallic base-clear paint over a sea-blue metallic over the Olympic Blue. Paint is glossy, with some flaws and patina of rock chips. L rear wheelwell lip has some sags that should have been trimmed and sanded when the car was clear-coated. Structurally, the car has some *potential* concerns. Please note the use of the word potential, as I can't be sure. The front and rear trunk floors are sealed with a thin layer of fiberglass (matting and resin). Rear trunk carpet was glued into place. Without removing the fiberglass, it's impossible to know what the panels look like. However, in fairness, the opposite side of the panels looked pretty good. Front trunk floor has some dents (poor choice of lift point?). The headlight areas appeared solid. I put my hand into the open area below the headlights and it had light, minor surface rust only. The bumper mounting points appeared solid (front and back). Car has a "wet" battery in place without an acid-proof mat. Battery tray was replaced once and welded in place. There is some of the same fiberglass matting at the base of the battery tray support and on the right side engine shelf. Knocking in the hell-hole did not reveal any holes, but it was difficult to tell how far down the fiberglass extended. The L side hell-hole was clean. Interior carpet was glued down, but I pulled some of it back. The floorpans seem very solid. Original soundproofing tar was intact. Area around pedal cluster seemed clean and solid. Accel pedal loose (tightened). Pedal board missing mounting hardware. The right side jack receiver moved very slightly when I used my hand to check if it was solid. Additionally, the area around the right side lift point has had some previous rust repair done. Based on the patch piece and welds, the repair is probably a scab-type repair. I've seen worse, but this area should be investigated more. The R mounting point for the motor mount bar appears solid. There is a GT-type stiffening kit installed in the rear wheel wells, painted over with satin black paint. The underside of the floorboards and front wheel wells are also painted with the same satin black paint. The R side wheel well has two scab-type rust repairs. The left side wheel well has a small (1/4") rust hole and the beginning of a second hole in the normal spot. I did not remove the right side rocker panel, but told the seller that anyone wanting to buy the car would insist on pictures of that area. There was one broken bolt/screw that should have been securing that side of the rocker panel. The exposed metal of the M6 screw was rusted, indicating that it was broken off some time previously. The R side trunk lid hinge has been replaced. The replacement piece is not the Restoration Designs unit. It was bolted into place. This should be repaired. The L side engine lid mounting point has been repaired at some point in the past. The exterior had some flaws as to be expected with a 35 year old car. There is a small ding in the cowl in front of the passenger seat. It appears as if the cowl seal was glued into place on the L side, possibly the R side as well. There is a small bubble on the L/F quarter panel. Chips on the hood, covered with touch-up paint. the front bumper top is weathered, wavy and crunchy with a few small cuts in the surface. The front bumper chrome is shines well. This car has foglights and the grills are intact. Both doors are drilled for aftermarket mirrors which are not on the car. The last paint job oversprayed the mirror mounting hardware which were left on the car. The underside of the doors appear solid. Door seals are relatively new. The targa top seal is in excellent condition. R side door handle mounting tab is broken. Also, door handle opens about 1 out of 3 times. Worn/misadjusted? The door gaps seemed pretty good. Could not do the "big butt test" since the door handle was unreliable. There are bubbles in the paint (contamination? rust?) in the forward part of the R door jam. there is evidence of rust damage at the top corner of the rear of the R door jam. The R rear quarter panel has spots where paint is spider-cracking. Feeling the back of the panel revealed that there were dings in those spots that were filled. My guess is body filler and an indication of a possible paint adhesion problem. Near the taillight on the R rear quarter there is evidence of chips, possible body filler and a crack at the lower corner of the tailight. Rust is visible. The curved roll-bar trim is anodized aluminum, but scratched and dull. A few small dents. The long top piece of roll-bar trim is blacked out. Rear bumper is bright chrome. Owner claims there is a ding behind the license plate. Rear bumper pad is wavy, crunchy and has some cracks. The car is equipped with euro tail lights. Left tail light lense has a small (1") crack. More to follow... I need a beer. |
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